Build Log - Tamiya 1:48 Scale Panther Ausf G (#32520)

Hi Folks!

Having completed our Trumpeter 1:72 Scale T-34/76 mod. 1942 (build log here) we’re resuming our first “quality” kit: Tamiya’s 1:48 Panther Type G

Now I say “resuming” as this project has been something of a shelf-queen, ensuring I pass a few core competencies on some cheap kits before moving onto something that’s been thoughtfully gifted to me and deserving of some justice.

Our objectives here were to:

  • Apply tried and tested learnings to build and paint the Panther OOB based on the cover art
  • Create a winter base matching the box art, while experimenting with a light snow effect

The first few steps of this build log are not a completely representative timeline, and I’ve made decisions along the way as a less-experienced modeller which I’ve since corrected in some of these “core competency development” builds. I may yet decide to add more test-builds along the way…

Contents:

Panther had it’s faults, but it wasn’t without its charms…

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Learnings: Airbrushed Three-Colour German Camouflage

All four options in the kit are based on the German three-colour camoulage, with the cover tank adopting the Hinterhalt-Tarnung (Ambush Camouflage) variation. With most of my prior paintwork being variations of brushwork, washes and drybrush I felt I needed to graduate to air-brushing for a credible look at 1:48 scale, leading to the acquisition of an airbush/compressor starter set and an Airfix 1:72 scale Tiger I Ausf E which included such a pattern.

Despite some initial on-the-job lessons in paint thinning, pressure settings and appropriate cleaning intervals, the airbrushing side of the equation was a success despite being a cheap airbrush with a 0.3mm nozzle. I did feel that the spray pattern was a little too wide for this camouflage design at 1:72 scale and that long term a finer airbrush would be beneficial, but the current tool would be adequate for 1:48 scale.

Unfortunately my subsequent decision to use an alcohol-based acrylic paint as a wash completely ruined the intended finish, with the cleanup attempt resulting in paint being stripped.

Although we recovered the model with a brushed finish, it wasn’t the intended outcome. This was a bit of a kick to the confidence levels, so I resolved that another cheap kit was required before proceeding…

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Learnings: How to not wash like an idiot

Acrylic Sludge Wash

Thankfully, the beautiful folks of the FSM forums were quick to point out where I went wrong and offer better pathways with oils or water-based acrylic washes

This sludge-wash of a Bandai 1:14500 Star Destroyer comprised water, charcoal-black poster paint and detergent. I found the poster-paint lacked durability but this gave it the advantage that it could be simply wiped off raised surfaces

Oil-Based Pin Wash & Streaking Effects

A topic of a separate Build Log, this Trumpter 1:72 T-34/76 mod. 1942 enjoyed its own set of complications but with its monotone paint scheme and reasonable level of detail it was an effective kit to validate airbursh skills and examine the behaviour of oils applied as both a pinwash and streaking/weathering effect.

We used Abteiling 502 oil paints thinned with white spirit, and observed no complications with the underlying acrylic clear coat. We could’ve been a bit more ambitious with the streaking/weathering and eased up on the road grime on the undercarriage but the exercise left me feeling like I understood the medium and confident enough to resume the shelf queen Panther

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The Build - Undercarriage and Base Impressions

My first foray out of 1:72 scale modelling, I was inititally surprised at the sheer size difference between this 1:48 scale Panther and a 1:72 scale StuG III I’d built earlier. Granted Panther’s 45ton operating weight nearly doubled the 24t of StuG III, but it was still interesting to see. There is a 1:72 scale Panther in the stash, so we’ll get a side-by-side comparison eventually.

Unfortunately even though we’d only completed Step 1 of the instructions, we had already made a serious error…

The lower hull of this kit is made of die-cast metal, which really gives it some heft! I’m a little puzzled as to why they’d do this outside of a weight = implied quality equation, but my best guess is that it’s to improve the odds of everything fitting together

Road wheel assembly was measured in “Martinis per side” - Can it be said that alcoholics will use anything other than the metric system?


Many of you prefer to delay your undercarriage assembly until after a few steps into painting, and I guess I see why. But there’s no better way to get the spacing of track impressions on a display base right than using the actual model! Unfortunately making the impressions for my Cromwell IV’s display base after the model was finished gave me quite a nasty cleanup job that resulted in some loss of finish, athough thankfully not to any visible areas…

This time around, we’d resolved to build just enough model so that we could get the display base size and the track gauge correct, while still being able to use any means necessary to clean off the track parts afterwards

The board was sourced from Bunnings (like your Home Depot in the USA or HammerBarn in Bluey) and the shaping medium is SpakFilla. This is a quick-drying water-soluble plaster filler popular amongst landlords after their former-tenant Kyle decided their gyprock/drywall disagreed with their drug habit.

It’s not the easiest stuff to work with, and I can see why many pundits prefer an air-drying clay. Water needs to be added to get it to stick to anything other than Kyle’s hole in the wall, which in turn makes the product fluffy and mobile. Insufficient water means the product will clump and lift off the substrate while you’re trying to work it.

Dabbing with paper towel had the effect of draining and recompacting it into the shape we wanted, while leaving an earth-like surface. We could then make our impressions in the wet plaster using our model, leaving deep and geometrically correct impressions of the track.

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The Build - Remaining Assembly and THAT gap…

So you remember when I said I made a serious error at Step One? Although I didn’t know it at the time, the chickens came home to roost at Step 4 when the upper hull was mated to the lower hull. Not even the screws that secure it to the die-cast metal lower hull could overcome the fact that 12 months earlier I had superglued the damned lower-frontal plate a touch too low

There’s no objective reason why the LFP had to be affiixed at Step 1, other than that was more convenient place to print that part of the assembly on the instruction sheet. I’m sure I’m not the only amateur who’s fallen foul of this, and I’ll be a hell of a lot more vigilant on delaying such assemblies for as long as possible going forward…

Fortunately the rest of the build went smoothly, and appears quite rich in detail with the various tools and cleaning rods. I fully acknowledge I’ve made the painting side of the ledger a much more difficult exercise for myself, however I happened to be on vacation and was really enjoying a trouble-free build… except for that damned lower-frontal plate anyway…

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Painting: Mud, Flood and the Wrong Tank

After initial assembly, Panther G spend most of the next 3 months back in the box. We weren’t completely idle during this period, as were side-questing our way through our Tiger I learning the ways of airbrushed three-colour German camo and how NOT to apply a wash…

There were also attempts made to carefully inject some putty filler into the unsightly gap created between the upper and lower frontal plates, but the combined result of the filling and sanding did not leave a convincing finish of what was supposed to be 80mm of interlocking steel plate

We proceeded to undercoat with a rattle-can of Tamiya TS-3 Dark Yellow, which seems to faithfully represent the German RAL 7028 Dunkelgelb that was the standard base for German vehicles at the time

Panther G was sprung from the box again as the threat and aftermath of Tropical Cyclone Alfred rendered us housebound for an unplanned long weekend. By the time it made landfall, the storm was downgraded to a Tropical Low and winds only gusted to 63km/h (or 40mph for those of you who’ve put a man on the moon). Local streets were still blocked by fallen trees, power lines and localised flooding as a result of the half-metre of rain that the storm brought with it - That said, a meme was continued:

One of the observations from air-bruishing the Tiger I was that hard-to-reach places could still be seen under the interrogration of photography and lamplight. To remedy this we “preshaded” our undercarriage with an acrylic wash to try and keep any untouched Dark Yellow from shining through

Despite best efforts to fix our LPF/UFP joint by filling and sanding, we ultimately resolved to take the cheats way out. A texture paint was applied to the general area, with the view to representing a mix of snow and mud buildup which could have resulted from the vehicle recently bursting out of a defilade… and that, Your Honour, is the case for the defence

That same texture paint, AK Terrains Muddy Ground, was applied to the SpakFilla base that we’d constructed earlier. Several coats are required for proper coverage, as white marks are left behind where the grit dislodges from the plaster. I expect the intended application involves flooding a base with the product, ensuring proper embedment of the grit, but I didn’t want to lose the track impressions I’d worked so hard to create. I’ll probably experiment with track impressions into the Muddy Ground with a more liberal application on a future build…

I’m yet to be convinced of its value when our camouflage scheme attracts three separate colours that are bound to be applied with some intersection, but I’ve airbrushed some shading using Tamiya XF-69 NATO Black over plate joints and recessed areas following advice from of some crazy internet people… Here’s how we looked partway through the process…

Trouble struck as I began to reapply the dunkelgelb, this time airbushing with Tamiya XF-60 Dark Yellow. Fortuantely this wasn’t so much a technical error, more that I was referring to the wrong sheet in the painting reference guide and wasn’t building up to the “Ambush” style on the box art.

Fortunately Option A (Turret 301) and Option B (Turret 302) both represent Panther Ausf G’s of the 9th Panzer Division, which saw action in the Ardennes. The main difference will be that Option B does not utilise the “Ambush” dot pattern and the undercarriage and wheels are the standard Dunkelgelb rather than taking on the camouflage pattern. This will somewhat make my life easier, it just wasn’t the scheme I was going for… Oh well, onwards and upwards!

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Your build is coming along well. Thank you for the detailed breakdown of your process.

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Painting: First Colour

So we’re up to the present day now! Previous posts on this build have, embarrasingly, covered progress from December 2023 until March 2025 so the progress will be a little incremental going forward. There’s a big going on in the life of the author, moving house in two weeks time and then have my first kid due just before Christmas but I’m hoping to eke out some meaningful hobby time…

Today we put down our first colour, specifically Tamiya XF-64 Red Brown. We’re trying to keep the edges of the colour boundaries soft as we’d done with our 1:72 Tiger I, so just free-handing the scheme in consultation with the instructions. Fortunately the top, front, back and side views are coordinated in the instructions, although there’s a little guesswork required for the right side which wasn’t included

Keeping the colour bands coordinated with the turret is a little tricky, as the angled turret will reveal variations in the spray pattern if it rotates. For now I’ve used a clear plastic mask so that I can line the two up without overspraying the hull while working on the turret

I’ll judge it after the green goes down, but part of me feels like the edges are still a little too soft despite dialling down the pressure settings to minimise the spray pattern. Once I’m ready for the “final cut”, I’ll take a more scientific approach by either:

  • Making up some stencils from transparency film with some spacers installed to ensure a consistent distance from the hull
  • Using silly putty rolled into a consistent diameter, which if sprayed at a 90deg angle will still allow for some diffusion as the radius of the “sausage” creates enough offset from the surface to promote a soft edge

I’m aware there are also templates on the market, but I don’t think this particular camo scheme is so complex as to warrant the expense. I’m also trying to diversify my spread of kits as German armour is somewhat over-represented in my completed collection and stash, and I could do without the associated assumptions upon my character…

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I really enjoy following build logs. This one is very good, I keep following and learning.

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Cheers Ricardo, you have a particular talent for it I must say… While I’m sure many hobbyists would rather just build their kits, I find putting these things into words really helps reflect on the tasks undertaken and plan the tasks ahead… Plus there’s also the off chance someone can really help me out with a fix, a time-saver or stop me doing something really stupid before I do it…

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Looking great, always nice to see 1/48 armor. I have this kit in my stash, also built the ustar/suyata/takom one with full interior.

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Thanks mate! Ah, well if you’ve done full-interior kits before then this one will feel like a breeze for you! Just mind that UFP/LFP joint, and don’t blindly follow the instructions like I did :sweat_smile:

Going to follow along with you on your Panther build. I just built the Tamiya 1/48 M4 and really enjoyed it. Had a similar experience with the hull blindly following the instructions. Fortunately it went together without a gap.
Looking forward to seeing updates.

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Painting: First-Last Colour > Using the Colour Guide as a Mask

On reflection I wasn’t liking the softness of the edges of my red-brown, so I decided to give masking a go with the green layer. I haven’t tried this before, but I seem to be getting lucky on the first go.

One of the things working heavily in my favour is that Tamiya was kind enough to draw its reference card in a relative scale and proportion to the model, and properly coordinate where the colours met on different facings. This means we can use the actual instruction sheet as a basis for our masks. There are still quite a few tricks and challenges associated with getting this right…

  • The model is about 43% larger than the instructions, and defaulting to a slightly different paper size so we’ve had to adjust the print for scale - Note the instructions I’ve left for myself
  • Not all sides of the vehicle are shown, so we’ve had to create one for the right side. Coordinating where the colours hit the side-skirts and turret was made slightly easier by making a copy of the top-view and turning it through 180 degrees. We’ve made a copy of the left side and flipped it horizontally before digitally cleaning up the left size and markings. With reference to our rotated top view, we’ve been able to place the right-side colours where they’ll likely fit
  • Sloping armour plate means that the image needs to be stretched so that the mask is sized to match the face area of the plate. For example the upper frontal plate effectively measures 18mm high from the frontal view, but it’s actually 31mm long on the model, so we applied a 72% vertical elongation. The slightly less dramatic slope of the rear armour plate only warranted a 15% vertical elongation

We will need to repear this process for the turret sides, but you can see the effective markup of the instruction sheet…

From there is was just a matter of printing our markup of the instruction sheet and using an Exacto-blade to cut out the colours that we want to paint. Kindof like a “Paint by Numbers” for surgeons…

The larger sheets only really worked for the larger plate areas - For some of the smaller angled plates or hard-to-reach areas, we were either cutting out and taping much smaller sections of our paper stencil or simply holding some paper or card with a pair of tweezers to block the spray

So far we’ve only masked the green (Tamiya XF-58 Olive Green), but I’m liking the edge that it creates much better. In order to maintain some minor softness to the edges, we’re trying not to have the paper sitting hard on the model. You can see the difference to the edges we’re getting now compared to the brown (Tamiya XF-64 Red Brown) of the previous layer…

Some of these “green” edges look very inconsistent, but the worst of what we see is actually the Dark Yellow sprayed over the NATO Black shading from a previous step so hopefully that’ll be cleaned up in good order

I’m conscious there are probably easier ways to do the masking such as:

  • Not being so pedantic about camo accuracy (read: FineScale Modeler Forum post)
  • Using a putty mask - Unfortunately even some of the supposedly better products out there like AK Interactive Camouflage Elastic Putty are still reportedly leaving residue on the model, and I can only imagine that residue will get worse over time as the putty absorbs overspray. Think I’ll take my chances with Tamiya’s masking tape…

Anyway, we’ll see how this turns out! It wasn’t my intention to do too much experimenting with this kit but it’d be a pretty boring build log if I didn’t have a few stumbles along the way (like noticing in the image that I missed a bit on the left exhaust pipe and jack, gah…)

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Looking good, I find Tamiya tape masks are an excellent aid in painting the base colors for German schemes you want to match a specific pattern. I find freehand painting them to match the pattern much more difficult because of the inevitable issues with overspray and alignment adjustments. Weathering with dot filters can really do a lot to soften the hard edges and unify the pattern.

Konrad

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Thanks for the tip! I’ve seen a few tutorials on dot filtering and didn’t fully understand their purpose, but this makes a lot of sense - Appreciate you swinging by with your words of inspiration!

Painting: Firming the Masking Technique

Our masked Olive Green pattern is complete! I’m quite happy with the result achieved with using our upscaled instruction booklet as a basis for a stencilled pattern

We’ve maintained a slightly softer edge of the stencil by using Tamiya Masking Tape to fix the stencil to the model, looping and folding the tape to double-side close to the edge. This allows the mask to stick to the model while creating enough relief for the paint to diffuse slightly rather than leaving a hard edge typical of a directly-applied mask

Satisfied with the technique, we’ll painstakingly repeat the Dark Yellow, Red-Brown and (if necessary) the Olive-Green layers with further tidying up of edges as required…

Edit: We’ve since abandoned the “tape spacers” due to inconsistent relief and a tendency for the masking tape to mask the diffusion of paint in the relief zone when placed too close to the edge requiring said relief

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Nice work on your Panther!

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Painting: Moving, MILs and Masking…

I’ve spent the last two weekends been moving house, so haven’t been able to make much hobby progress or update accodingly. On the plus side, the packing and sorting of my stash, paints and tools made pulling together a “Hobby Grab Bag” for todays activities an absolute breeze!

Long story short, the wife and mother-in-law had a theatre booking this evening. We’ve just moved about an hour away from the Mother-in-Law and my 26-weeks-pregnant wife didn’t want to drive home afterworks, so the plan was that after a few errands I’d be left to my own devices at the mother-in-law’s place while they went to the theatre.

Uncovered parking and the various luggage trips between houses left the exterior and interior of her car looking a little worse for wear, so we stopped for a car wash and detail which involved quickly pulling the “Hobby Grab Bag” from the boot so the good folks at Hoppy’s could do their thing…

But with the errands done, I was back into it, continuing our scaled-instructions masking with Tamiya XF-60 Dark Yellow. Again the mask was slightly elevated from the model by using loops of Tamiya Masking Tape as spacers…

This is a pretty meticulous and time-consuming method, and in the 2hrs of actual work I was only able to knock over five faces and two beers (probably for the best, as I had to drive the wife home post-theatre…). Importantly though, we’re achieving the intended result mask-by-mask, panel-by-panel

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I see you had the essential model building tool, a bottle of beer. :grinning_face_with_smiling_eyes:

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