First of all, hello fellow modelers, I’m John, (Chopper_Chief), was a Blackhawk Crew Chief in the Army National Guard. I like assembling Huey Helicopters, D models or H models. Never really liked the B or M models look. I am at my wits end on how to eliminate that fog over look that liquid glue seems to be famous for when gluing in a window. Doesn’t matter, cargo doors, front doors, chin bubble, especially the overhead window above the cockpit. I tried dabbing a small amount in each corner after the window was installed dry, but after fully drying, foggy windows. Curious as to how others do this without the fog. Thanks for your help, look forward to any replies.
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You don’t use that type of glue,you use Elmers type white glue. Different companies sell stuff marketed as canopy glue,but regular white glue works fine,it dries clear,but still go easy with it.
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Dip the clear parts in Quick Shine. It’ll protect it from fumes. Also suggest using Clear Parts Glue vs. regular glue. It’s basically thick white glue that dries clear.
I never thought of that. Thanks Rob. So glad I joined this site.
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Good to know. Clear parts glue. I’ll see if Michael’s has any in that section. If not… Amazon
That’s Anthony 
,no problem
Where did I get Rob from? Thanks Anthony 
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Because I replied as well…
Welcome! Big fan of helo builds and have done a few myself and have several in the stash. Thanks for your service.
I’ve been using Testors clear parts cement for years with great success.
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Appreciate it. I’ll get some immediately. Have a 1/72 scale gunship coming in september.
Hello!
Windows - that’s always a challenge, especially on the Huey models. And Chief, what do you say about the hell hole (or lack thereof!) on most Huey models?
One thing is using a glue that doesn’t attack or fog the clear plastic - people use different things here here, from white glue, throught future (that floor polish) to UV hardening resins/compounds. There is one more trick that helps a lot here - take a marker with a fine tip and paint the edge of every window dark grey or black before glueing it in - this way you eliminate that funny light edge of the window. Helps the look a lot.
There is also this idea of making bigger parts of the chopper transparent - imagine making the whole cargo door out of clear plastic - then you mask the windows and paint the part OD. This way you don’t have to worry about installing the windows at all. There is that Huey kit out of Poland, by a company called Aeroplast. now reboxed by Mistercraft - well it’s generally sh***y, but has cargo doors done exactly like that, as one clear part - I think more companies should do it like that and for a huey the cockpit doors and whole front made out of clear plastic could be a great help. Hobby Boss Hueys partially have it done this way, maybe their front could be transplanted to a long Huey,
I hope this helps - good luck with your builds and have a nice day
Paweł
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Appreciate you asking the question Cheif! I’m on my first aviation build in 28 years, and never managed an unfogged canopy in my teens. I now consider myself appropriately forewarned and forearmed by this question and its responses! Thankyou all for saving my build…
That’s one of the reasons why I prefer 1/72. The D model Gunship has the guns and the pilots. With this new information about how to install windows, correctly, I hope to make that one my best yet. Not to divert topics, but now I have to figure out how to handle tiny pieces. Tweezers are ok, but even some parts are so small they get in the way. Thanks for the tips.
For windows and other clear parts, these are the two products I use. Micro Kristal Klear is made for exactly this kind of thing, and I also sometimes use UV resin. Both work really well for attaching windows and canopies without leaving the residue you can get from regular model cement or CA glue.
As for those really tiny parts, one trick I use all the time is a little blob of Blu Tack on the end of a toothpick. Just touch it to the part, position it where you want it, and pull the toothpick away. I find it much easier than tweezers for some of those tiny pieces, and it keeps them from launching themselves into the waiting jaws of the carpet monster. 
And as you’re discovering, ask a question around here and you’ll usually get several different ways to solve the problem. That’s one of the great things about this forum.
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I’m in the Elmer’s white glue camp for most clear parts but let’s be honest, the Elmer’s glue isn’t exactly a strong glue. If I have a clear part that absolutely needs to stay secure, I use a thin coat of Gorilla Clear Glue. It dries clear, doesn’t fog but it does take a good 12 hours to dry properly.
It’s also useful for headlight lenses and such.
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I’ve also had good luck with this watchmaker’s glue at Hobby Lobby. It comes with a super fine applicator and dries hard and clear.
G-S Hypo Cement | Hobby Lobby | 710046
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Interesting. I had no idea Gorilla made a clear glue that was safe for windows and other clear parts. I’ll have to pick some up and give it a try.
I do like the UV resin for things like lenses because I can control exactly what shape I want before hitting it with the UV light to cure it instantly. Thanks for the tip!
Glad to help. I thought I had it, but found out it’s the glue not the technique. That’s why I signed on here. Just for tips like this.
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Great idea. I looked up the Blu tack. It’s a paste? Perfect idea. Again, I had no idea until now that these modeling ideas existed. I’m racking my brain trying to figure out how to get my skinny meat hook hands to pick up a tiny piece, and blu tack has been there all along. Exactly why I joined this forum.
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It’s not really a paste. It’s more like gum, with just enough tack to hold something temporarily without permanently sticking to it. It’s actually made for things like sticking posters to a wall. That’s what makes it so handy for this kind of thing.