Where did you get the Bell 47 model?
I like the applicator tip, BUT, do you have a problem with it continuing to drip glue once you squeeze the tube? I love that it sends out tiny drips of glue, just not at a constant rate. I wipe it off, it keeps coming. Something to remember if that’s an issue. Dab, wipe, know where you want to dab next, dab, wipe rinse repeat. Lining up that needle thin wire inside the cap is tough as well.
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It’s an 1/48 Italeri kit. Really nice little kit. The truss could be thinner. They’ve release 4 boxings - check it out here. I have the USCG float version in the stash.
What I do is to drip a little bit on to my plastic paint cups and then apply it with a needle or a piece of fine wire.
There are also superglue applicators, that I have that work great and it comes with the little silicone cup to drip the glue in.
Amazon.com: GSI Creos GT57 Mr. Glue Applicator, GSI : Arts, Crafts & Sewing
I use this stuff too, although I find it has a tendency to string after a while. But it does set very firmly.
Pawel mentioned an excellent tip about painting the edges of clear parts to eliminate that edge effect that is so common on clear parts. I painted the inside faces of the sensors on my Hasegawa YF-21 dark gray, and it greatly improved their appearance.
A friend turned me on to Ammo’s Ultra Glue, which looks like white glue, but I think it is actually an acrylic based glue that sticks really well when dried. It has low tack hold when wet like white glue, but when dried it is strong, takes knocks, and is flat in finish! I think Gator Glue is similar.
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I picked this one to reply to because it is along the lines of glue and the circus we suffer from. I have been watching guys build models on YouTube, which is old news by the way, and the glue they seem to covet is this Tamiya Thin glue. It comes in square bottles and the lid doubles as a thin brush applicator. I watch these guys take parts, lay them in place with tweezers or brush the gaps of two parts they are trying to put together, and thanks to time lapse editing the parts just glue together perfectly or the part just immediately sits there glued down and doesn’t tip, tumble, or topple over. JUST HOW LONG IS THAT LAPSE? I bought some, two bottle set, and this crap wouldn’t glue your fingers together. I don’t have time to sit 24 hours and wait for this glue to finally dry a part to the fuselage. This is why I like gorilla super glue XL. I can use special tips that are about 4 inches long and get smaller as you head toward the tip, and lay a thin coat of that on a spot, hold the part there for 10 seconds, let go, and it’s glued. I tried laying this Tamiya glue on thick and it never would seize up. What gives?
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Hi John, nice to see another helicopter guy around here. 
I’m sure you’ll have clear windows installed in no time with all the great recommendations here.
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I’m going to try canopy glue. Actual name. Hobbylinc. I was told the most recommended was microscale micro krystal Klear. Yes they do use a K rather than a C. It’s part of the micro sol/micro set family of products
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I hear your frustration. Maybe this will help. I use Tamiya Extra Thin all the time, and I had to learn that you really use it differently than regular model glue.
I put the two bare plastic parts together first and hold them exactly where I want them. Then I just touch the brush to the seam and let capillary action pull the glue into the joint. You don’t need much at all. Usually after about 10 seconds it will hold well enough that you can let go.
If you’re brushing it onto the parts first and then trying to put them together, I can see why it would seem completely useless. 
Sorry to here about the windows fogging up. To be perfectly honest, I’ve used superglue for years to install my windows/canopies. The trick is to use a VERYsmall amount so it won’t give off gas during the curing. I would apply mine with a very sharp toothpick. Just like a lot of other modelers, I’ve recently switched to Elmers white glue. It has very good adhesion properties, it can be cleaned off parts with just water without marring the plastic, and it’s very cheap.
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Different subject but curious to know your opinions. Regular spray paint. Krylon, Rustoleum, Do It Best flat black best spray paint ever made. I’ve had no issues using these spray paints on models. Other than they clog up and stop working if you don’t use the entire can in one setting. Forest Green Camo by Rustoleum makes for a most realistic look on a military helicopter. Krylon fusion has never steered me wrong building track cleaning cars for trains. I do note that the gloss paints have a tendency to run if you stay in one spot too long.
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I’m assuming this is the Paint that you’re talking about. I’ve used it before, and it is the most ultra flat spray paint I’ve ever used. This stuff is great. Very realistic color too for helicopters
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Well, I’ve seen guys paint entire 1980 Toyota pickup trucks with the stuff, so I figure if it’ll work on one of those, it’ll probably work on a scale helicopter model.
It does sound like the trick is to go easy with it, though. Some of those rattle-can paints use pretty strong solvents, and a heavy wet coat can apparently be hard on plastic or whatever you’ve already painted underneath. I’d definitely test it on some scrap plastic first.
That’s the one. Painted it straight onto the plastic, no priming or prep. I actually used it later as primer for the small parts. Then painted the stabilizer bar silver, the rotor controls gun metal, even painted over the tiny lights and anti-collision light with some dark red. Painted the rotor blades black with some Krylon Flat Black, directly over the plastic (no primer coat). Painted the seats and cyclics and collectives, and the deck and ceiling with primer gray krylon, then painted the individual parts with model paint. It appeared to take. Oh, one of the things the YouTube video builder used to paint small parts hard to hold, he used masking tape with the ends folded backwards so it would stick to his table, and then placed the parts on the sticky part that he intentionally made face up. He used an air brush sprayer but the idea was the same. Keeps the parts from blowing away.
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