Here’s a full link my and I dea that came from SAM’s how to book, used on an armor project. An guy and girls tell em what you thing of the out come.
Okay, 
here’s the salty dog I did last May (07)…
I used salt but did it my way to avoid salt staining. You have to be careful about the staining.
You can see the feedback minus the 12 other pics here.
Disastermaster
Very impressed with the tutorial and the T34, i havnt tried this technique yet but ive wanted to for a long time.Whats that about the staining?
Wel, I just got my advanced copy of the November Finescale Modeler, and there’s a whole article on using various “kitchen items”–read “FOOD”!–as modeling weathering tools…[sigh]
I’ll be honest; ever since my horrendous nightmare of using-baking-soda-for rust/snow debacle almost 20 years ago, I have gone on a modeling “diet” so-to-speak. I just can’t endorse, and do not have the courage to use any chemically active additives to my weathering and finishing jobs.
Steve’s T-34 is a piece of sheer modeling Art, and shows the benefit of the technique in the hands of a master, but personally, for me, I’d be scared of what might happen years down the road–as hapened with my old models, which tooks literally years to show the reaction of the paint with the baking soda. Will the salt eventually cause a reaction with the paint base, as it did mine? For me, the risk is just too great.
Once burned… [:-^]
I’ve lso seen models done with this technique that are way overdone, IMO. I think the model in the link that was provided there is in that category, IMHO. It appears to me that this technique is somewhat difficult to control, hard to predict its outcome, and easy to get away from you if you’re not really careful.
I have to say that the T-34 does look like real metal.
Me to that T34 kicks but and all the rust is in the right places.[bow]
I’m the builder of that model and I want ted to try some thing new and much easyer that others. This or my Build is not done yet I have not added the numbers or logos and I have not started on any of the rust yet. I have a ways to go yet. I thought I would post this to show what it looks like once you do it. I’know that a lot of you may not like this stype and that’s ok by me I just needed to read you comments and thand for the heads up Doog.
This is just after I rubbed off the salt:
In the next part I sprayed a thined out version of my paint to mist the tank. An then I stoped to let it dry for a day.
But Doog “please tell us”[sigh] what was to out come of or how your model look after some time has gone by. Pleas tell us in detail what it looked like or can you show a photos of this so I will know what the expected outcome will be.
Thanks every one for your comments.
Interesting technique… I’ve never seen that before. A bit heavy-handed, IMHO, for use on every kit one builds, but for certain applications and vehicles, I’d use it… The average life-spans of my builds are only a couple of years before I get sick of lookin’ at them and they get DRMO’d anyway…
Hey Bodge!
- It all comes down to diligence. If the salt is too wet when it is applied it will dissolve to a goo instead of maintaining a crystalline form which is required to acheive this effect. When you paint over it, you just cover a problem that may not chip off and at best will give that yucky appearance. It doesn’t matter what kind of salt you use; the problem can arise with any brand. It’s best to apply the salt to a pre-selected heavy-damp area instead of a puddle. If it doesn’t stick, don’t add water just brush it off and repeat using a bit more water or until it holds. There is a “just right” amount of adhesion that is needed… so keep in mind that your airbrush “can” blow the salt off.
!http://th214.photobucket.com/albums/cc149/trixiko/Smileys/th_36_1_44.gifIf not done properly, when it comes time to rub off the salt it will leave a white stain if it was too diluted. Putting water on the stain will make it appear to go away but it comes back when the water dries.
- The salt must be removed without using water as this will cause the salt to mush (water can also weaken superglue, so watch the photoetch if you need another reason not to go that way). I say this because the salt might be very stubborn to remove and in some cases you might be tempted to try that. I’ve had to literally go over a model a half square inch at a time with a toothpick !http://th17.photobucket.com/albums/b55/thewrensnest/smileys/th_planete_smiley_com_lol2045.gif(a fine tooth comb won’t work) to insure a complete de-salting. Also take care not to wipe out any photoetch in the removal process as you may have to become fairly aggressive to get some spots cleared.
Gee Doog…!http://th28.photobucket.com/albums/c202/Livvy82/Emoticons/th_thanx.gif
Yes Luke… but you must use the “Force”.
But in this scenario the “force” is patience and diligence. The control effect is in my pictured result. It’s going on two years now and there has been no change in the finish.
Given your plethora of techniques, this would be another weapon to combine with your arsenal for even more astounding results. Your ability to solve the track problem on your other thread shows your adaptability and ingenuity. This should be a walk in the park for you.
!http://th276.photobucket.com/albums/kk13/daniellepcos/Smilies%20and%20Emoticons/th_smilieyourock.gifYep, this is doog now…
so, in the spirit of !http://th20.photobucket.com/albums/b222/Zap_Hop5/Smileys/th_f1a8e15d.gif
…you could be taking it to A… whole… NEW… LEVEL !!http://th189.photobucket.com/albums/z268/crissiann1002/smileys/th_thurocksmileys-1.gif
See the potential?
!http://server.blinkyou.com/glitters/glittermaker/gallery/08242008/Z2CeasceV5.gif
Could ya fix your post to eliminate the need for the slider bar, D-man? Your graphics, although clever, must have some long urls…
Hey Hans,
!http://th20.photobucket.com/albums/b244/Spiritis/Emoticons/th_Unexpected.gifWhat?
Have 'ya got your browser spread waaay out !http://th272.photobucket.com/albums/jj184/befje/smileys/th_bf-thisbig.gif
Or it could be 'cause I’m posting from a MAC … It’s not showing that on this end so it’d be difficult for me to resolve.
Sometimes when I check on forum posts from a public source, (and using a PC) the viewable layout is different.
I’m not sure of a fix.
Sorry.
!http://server.blinkyou.com/blinkiemaker/gallery/08242008/gxn49ISEh1.gif
Well, near as I can explain it, your post was too big for the forum page, so there’s a slider bar at the bottom of post to move your post back & forth in order to read it. Problem is it’s too long to both your post’s slider and the web page slider on-screen. So I’m having to scroll up & down with my browser’s slider, and back and forth with your post’s slider, neither of which are on screen with the other at the same time. Clear as mud, right?
Now, your next post, the one above this, is just fine. No sliders… So I figured, one of the images in your other post might have a url address that is overly long, forcing the forum software to treat it like an over-size picture…
Only fix I could reccommend is… Stop using all those gif files in your posts… The laughing dogs gif is pretty long when I clicked o it’s properties, but I could be wrong about about why the post got a slider…
I’m not sure I understand your question/request here, White34?
The model that was ruined by the Baking Soda?
That looked like it was “sweating” an oily, brown, resinous goo that was impossible to remove cleanly. It looked like I’d dripped old motor oil over the parts where I had used the Baking Soda. Is that what you were looking to know?
Steve–I applaud both you and White34 for having the balls to attempt this, and for both pulling it off. I just plain ol’ won’t try it, becuase I just don’t want to have to worry about potential, unknown reactivity problems that may or may not pop up. Sheesh; just that “staining” issue is enough to deter me from even trying it.
If I want this look, I’m fairly confident that I can achieve it with the hairspay method, as I did on the Nomad I rusted out.
Oh sorry doog to here of that outcome on the Baking Soda method, at the time I was typed in my ??? I was still thinking of the hole salt thing man sorry for the mix up. An thanks to you all (That’s you Doog and “D”) for all the “Inspiration” I get from looking at all you builds in and out of the magazine. I was hoping to get to a place where I could feel like I was part of this groupe fully and to day I feel like I’m on cloud 9.
http://www.cartoonstock.com/newscartoons/cartoonists/mgt/lowres/mgtn71l.jpg
An hay don’t you all love all those images D has I’m glad your on here as we realy have an idea of how you realy feel on any subject from time to time. Keep up the good work.
BUT and you know there is always a BUT in there. I must try this Baking Soda method. I have use talcum power and baby power to act as mud in my builds of 1/24-25 scale but not Baking Soda.
http://medicineworld.org/images/blogs/6-2007/talcum-powder-19691.jpg
I have only use Baking Soda in the fridge or ice box and for brushing my teeth with. Baking Soda is a little salty. So what you think should I keep trying Look here[(-D]
http://i56.photobucket.com/albums/g166/ashnikes/Renteeth.jpg
White, seriously–I hope you’re joking about “trying this baking soda method”; it’s the LAST THING I would ever recommend to anyone to do.
It WILL react with your paint; it will ruin your model. NO “If’s, and’s or but’s”–IT WILL RUIN YOUR MODEL.
Do I need to make that any more clear?
DON’T DO IT. Talcum powder is fine to use for texture.
Curious as to why such a thing would happen… Shep Paine recomended baking soda for texturing rust on exhausts and mufflers and such in his books and Monogram diorama tip sheets 30 years ago… It’s a tip I’ve been using for years 'n years as well… 'Course, like I said earlier, I don’t keep my builds whole and around forever either, so I don’t know what would happen after ten or twenty years, other than what might take place in the spare parts boxes…
Doog - did you use an acrylic base way back then? Baking soda will change the pH and affect some paint, and has some funky effects on acrylic paint. Anyways, I would never use any substance (natural or artificial) that modified pH (making something more acidic or basic) since most dyes/paints are highly susceptible to changes in alkalinity/acidity. Salt, talc should me fine.
I like this idea, I am going to try it.
I cant see using it on parts like top of the turret and such except for VERY light, but it looks like it can be freakin nuts on road wheels, tracks, and lower chasis.
I’d love to try this on a kit, do a base coat, and super overweather it with rust and dry brushing and all, then use this technique over it, so where it rubs off you have some good weathering. But thats just me.
I used salt to weather this guy about 5 years ago:
/forums/894256/ShowPost.aspx
The pictures were taken w/in the last six months or so. I originally painted him w/ MM enamels, applied the salt, than painted on at least one more coat of enamels. He seems to be holding up pretty well, so that particular combination should be ok. Don’t know about acrylics though.
Now, I understand what you’re saying. I’m on dialup, so when I use the AOL browser (which is really never) I get exactly the same thing that you’re talking about, sliders lateral and vertical. Now, I can understand your frustration. That’s why I do all my web adventures on the Firefox browser. I don’t know what browser you are using but if you aren’t using Firefox, give it a try. Everything shows up great on this end. I pm’d a friend here on the forum to ask how the post looked there, he said it looked fine.
Anyway, I suspect it’s a browser issue. I don’t use any other browser since going to Firefox.
Sorry for the angst, but I hope this makes things better for you.
Disastermaster
Usin’ IE5 or 6 not sure… Tried Firefox once, didn’t like the look, and it created some other issues with some software I have, so I dumped it… Anywho, seems that it’s only the one post you made. The rest look ok… In the meantime, it’s 