This tell just what happond to Doogs build it’s the pH that had a big change and went from a basic flat paint to a oozing mess with time and that’s it for me man I’ll not going there. I’ll stick with my new salt trick. An comic loved you figure I’d love to try to build one of those but if I have to get one off Evil-Bay than I will have to pass on it and ordering one from the UK is out to. But I’ll keep looking around to try to get one to try. Thank’s for the link.
When I need texture for rust, I simply shave off some pastel chalk and add it to the paint. It starts off roughly the color I want which makes life even easier.
I agree that the effect can be awesome, but can be over done. I’m of the opinion that chipping and wear are often overly done with any technique–sometimes you see a model and then a photo of the machine they based it off of, and the machine has little to no chipping/wear.
As for the scroll bars… the offending piece in your post, big D, is that the lines of “*” don’t always get wrapped to the next line for some people, just cut off 5-10 of them and everyone will be happy 
Actually, what I was using was those small bottles of Testors enamel “Rust” and “Rubber”, and mixing the two colors to get rust colors, if I recall correctly. I’m not sure exactly what it would do to acrylics; the point id that it DOES affect the PH and with all due respect to Shep Paine ([bow]), I can only speak from my own experience–it was a godawful MESS!
THAT’S the way to do it, IMO!
Curious as to how this technique would work for the “sandblasted” look of the leading edges of wings for aircraft based on fields in the desert sands of N.Africa and Pacific islands with coral runways… Especially those P-61s and Oscars & Tonys… Hmmm… SNAP! Woah… Sorry, Treadheads… Forgot where I was… I was just typing out loud… I’m a Nomad, ya know…
Hans…I was thinking the very same thing about those ‘things with wings’ that have a Rising Sun on them…phew…I’m glad I’m not the only one who experiences flashbacks…LOL
Cheers
I’m a real-world former Redleg, so the Clankers, err, TANKers let me hang around in here… I Build a lot of tracks, just not many tanks… In the words of Bill Mauldin’s “Joe” of “Up Front” fame regarding tanks, “I’d druther dig… A movin’ foxhole attracts th’ eye…”
well I just tried this method out on a one of my pallet kits. Waiting for it to dry to see how it looks!
Will do.
Cheers Dissastermaster for your doos and donts on the salt technique it doesnt explain the donts on my previous tutorial of this technique, i would have come unstuck for sure.[tup]
I had alittle trouble. I dont know if I wet the kit to much, or used to much salt. But when I went to brush off the salt, it wouldnt come off. I used my stiffest dry brushing brush to knock it off too. all it did was make the brush take the color of the painted salt, and smear the paint that was down (it was dry honest)
!http://th85.photobucket.com/albums/k55/linvixen/smileys/th_untitled.jpgHere’s a little help…
!http://th62.photobucket.com/albums/h104/pro_ana/smileys/th_9413a6fa.gif_It can require some dedicated effort in some cases._ A lot of things just aren’t as simple as they look.
Also, after thinking about it. This technique DOES involve a food product. BUT, !http://th177.photobucket.com/albums/w209/narugirl94/smileys/th_butt.gif(always a but in there) the difference is that you will remove it after it has served it’s purpose. With that in mind, you don’t have to worry about what the salt will do 10 years down the road because it won’t be there.
Disastermaster
Thanks for the warning about the super glue; I didn’t know that before.
I’ve used the salt weathering technique a few times, and each time I did it I washed the salt off w/ warm water. I’ve never had any problems w/ that, however on most of my stuff I only use SG for gap filling, and there’s usually a layer of enamel paint between the salt and the model.
It wasnt that I wet the salt after it was down, I wet the tank to make the salt stick.
!http://th172.photobucket.com/albums/w26/babydoll762005/smileys/th_ok.gif
but your key issue here is to get the salt OFF. !http://th25.photobucket.com/albums/c92/CabbyShack/smileys/th_eusa_naughty.gifMy point was…
“I’ve had to literally go over a model a half square inch at a time with a toothpick to insure a complete de-salting.”
It can be difficult…
Disastermaster
Hello all first Hans von Hammer As I was reading up on this method befor trying it, it was being used on a Japanes aircraft and it will make your wings look grate. OK now for smeagol this is how I did my method first I diped my brush in the cold water not worm no hot, cold not real cold just room timp% once I got the brush a bit wet I then diped in in to the salt and with the wet salt I quick dabbed it in the places were I needed it to be. Now in some places I would like you get the tank wet but I use only a very small amount of water. and a lot of salt. Now remember you can’t let it pool up that will only make the salt harder to come off.
Now there is one othere way to make it hard to get the salt off is to over paint if you let the paint pool up on the salt the same thing will happond. Oh and you should try this trick on some old peace of platic not a project the your working on now. Only do this once you realy get the hang of it. The only reason I did in on my project is that at the time I read about the info was when the Mag first came out so I had some time to realy think about how to go about doing it for my first time. See I like to think of how to do something for some days and nights. They call it get some sleep on it and that always helps me line up my thoughts about how to go-about doing something. An every time I think on what ever it is for a long time and some times dream about it on the day I have my “Epiphany” I jump to like I have bean doing it for a long time and it just works out so well for me. An one othere thing you should be using is and Acrylic as some Enamels dry with a thick layer.
Well I know this is a lot to read and I’m sorry for that but as a guy that lives with dyslexia. I was traned to read that way so that if I had to read in front of my class wen I was a child I would not feel so bad once I learned a new way of studing. So I use that same approach in my modeling process.
Ok first every one that has read this far stop on what ever your doing and if your at a hard part stop here’s what I want you to do to get past what every has you stuck. Ok think about how you should go about getting what ever your working on to fits or builds together. Now in your mind picture your self building or putting what ever it is step by step together and repeat it over and over. Just for a small amount of time. Now go and do some thing othere than that project and from time to time think about the steps and befor you know it your haveing an “Epiphany” and your idea works out even better that you first thought!
Go on try is it may work for some of you and it may not but what you got to lose. Just a little time.
PS A Disclaimer: This should not be tryed if you have to go to Work or School in the morning. AKA High School & College students. [#welcome][(-D]
That’s exactly why I can’t sleep at night…
You should see how much sleep you loose when your trying to figure out how to scratch something you have failed at scratching sing three or four different methods. White, thanks for the indepth tutorial, I really appreciate it. I am going to try it again tonight, see if it works.
I use “Italian Bread Crumbs”. [dinner] They taste great, and don’t leave any kind of reside. I doubt they would have any long term effects. Here is pic of an unfinished Flak Gun. No other weathering yet, just the paint chips.
