Tyrrell P34 1977 Monaco Grand Prix

I don’t think I have posted a thread on this model - that’s what happens when you are a glacier-slow builder like me and forget stuff. Anyway, I have always liked this weird 6-wheel design, so decided (many years ago) to try my hand at a Formula-1 car. Please pardon my ignorance, as I knew basically nothing about them and learned stuff along the way.

Here’s the kit:

https://flic.kr/p/rcLwP4][/url]P34-Box Art by N.T. Izumi, on Flickr

I wanted to try detailing the kit as best as I could, plus make painting easier. That meant re-engineering the body to separate along areas of different color. To this end, two kits were purchased to hack apart and reassemble. The vertical sides of the monocoque where the front suspension attaches to were molded with the upper body, so they were separated and glued to the bottom plate. These parts would be all painted aluminum.

https://flic.kr/p/r7ASCn][/url]P34-002 by N.T. Izumi, on Flickr

The small side windows were provided as clear acetate sheets which were supposed to be glued into recesses on the inside of the upper cowl, but you can see into the cockpit after the kit is finished. So I glued a solid sheet of plastic into the recesses, filling them flush, and opening up the windows while leaving a small ledge to attach new windows from the outside. The windows have a rubber gasket around their perimeters, but I’ll figure them out later.

https://flic.kr/p/rK5m2K][/url]P34-005 by N.T. Izumi, on Flickr

The upper cowling aft of the driver’s seat had a poorly molded rib that did not match the one molded to the forward cowling, so they were removed in their entirety and replaced with triangular strip plastic.

https://flic.kr/p/r7ARcg][/url]P34-004 by N.T. Izumi, on Flickr

A painful (but educational) lesson in buying a bunch of aftermarket accessories is that some (or in my case a lot) of that stuff really isn’t all that helpful. Case in point the PE for the backsides of the front spoiler. I think it is made of stainless steel, which proved difficult to cut/trim and impossible to curl to accurately fit the spoiler edge contours. So out came the sheet plastic and with little fuss, the job was done.

https://flic.kr/p/s7hcwj][/url]P34-006 by N.T. Izumi, on Flickr

The kit is old, so there is a battery compartment underneath that fit poorly. I tried to fill/sand the gaps, but just gave up after several tries. A sheet of 0.010 sheet plastic was used to plate over the mess.

https://flic.kr/p/s5xsF8][/url]P34-010 by N.T. Izumi, on Flickr

https://flic.kr/p/swx9ZA][/url]P34-012 by N.T. Izumi, on Flickr

I have posted some pics of Archer rivet decals before, and this is the project where I first used them. A reference book I have included a large photo of a wrecked P34 being hoisted off the track, which afforded a rare, clear shot of the underside. I used the photo to add the rivet pattern.

https://flic.kr/p/uwLYLN][/url]P34-037 by N.T. Izumi, on Flickr

https://flic.kr/p/vruyku][/url]P34-038 by N.T. Izumi, on Flickr

Coat of primer, then some Alclad aluminum.

https://flic.kr/p/vjt7gb][/url]P34-039 by N.T. Izumi, on Flickr

https://flic.kr/p/vmvkiy][/url]P34-064 by N.T. Izumi, on Flickr

So after much filling of ejector pin marks and such, primer was applied to the body pieces to see how things were proceeding.

https://flic.kr/p/sCDWhw][/url]P34-013 by N.T. Izumi, on Flickr

https://flic.kr/p/smfAqL][/url]P34-014 by N.T. Izumi, on Flickr

Anyway, more later!

Very nice Real G will keep watching. Finishing Airfix 1930 Bentley 1/32 and ordered Tamiya’s Morgan today.

Oh cool! A lot of work so far and looking nice. Following this one.

I have 2 of the 1/12 scale kits, an old release and the re-issue with photo etch. My plan is to build one track ready and the other one showing the PE details. Always loved thjs akward looking race car. Turns out the idea of 6 tires was useless as the r steer tires wore faster than the drive tires and no real speed advantage in turns was gained.

An awesome endeavour for sure, I will be checking in from time to time.

Yep, the aerodynamic advantage of hiding the front wheels in the body was offset by excessive scrub in turns. The Tyrrell team endlessly tinkered with the steering geometry to try and get all four front wheels to track correctly but apparently were never 100% successful. The added weight of the extra set of wheels and suspension was also a factor, and Goodyear’s halting development of the tiny tires spelled the end of the P34’s career.

By the time the 2nd gen P34s were on the track in 1977, the front wheels were moved out into the airstream to improve roll stability, but negated the aerodynamic advantage of the narrower track 1st gen cars.

Very good work. I plan to follow your build closely. Heard about those rivet decals but never saw them in actual use. Great job. Gonna have to get me some of those.

Keep up the good work. [t$t]

Jim [cptn]

Thanks guys for the positive comments! A disclaimer though - this build is several years old, so hopefully by the time the photo posts catch up to where the project is at, I’ll resume work on it. I did get to the decal stage, but am having wonky clearcoat issues. The drivetrain also needs a few small parts, but the big stuff is substantially complete.

And Armornut, I also have two 1/12 kits just like you - one a fresh reissue and another tatty boxed, but intact kit. I plan on building one stripped down and the other all buttoned up. That way I can work around the yellowed decals in the older kit.

Thinking of the Ackerman angle/steering on this makes my head hurt…lol

Apparently it was not so straightfoward as putting in two sets of front steering wheels. I think the only way they could have achieved 100% perfect coordination under all cornering conditions would be to have computer-controlled individually steered wheels, something not possible in those analog days.

BUT, that is why I am so fascinated by the P34.

Goin’ all out on this bad boy I see. Progress looks good so far. No matter how old the kit may be…at least it’s a Tamiya offering. Looking forward to more.

Considering this kit was one of Tamiya’s earliest F-1 models, it’s not bad. There’s a bunch of little nicks and spurs in mostly hard to reach areas, probably due to the mold getting old. Some ejector pin marks are also in annoying, tight spots, but all can be filled. The Ford-Cosworth V-8 is still a very nice piece of plastic.

To borrow the military expression “mission creep”, what started out as an OOTB project rapidly mushroomed into a complex one. This was primarily due to the acquisition of several excellent books on the car. The more I read and studied photos, the more I wanted to improve things. The downside is you get bogged down, the upside is that you try new things. Plus almost everything I now know about F-1 came from reading up about the car.

Looking forward to watching this build. Great work so far.

One of my favorite parts about this hobby is learning about the subject at hand.

Thanks for sharing.

T e d

I’ll just sit over here and watch intently



Real G

- Member since
May, 2011
- From: Honolulu, Hawaii


Posted by Real G on Friday, February 01, 2019 9:40 PM


Thanks guys for the positive comments! A disclaimer though - this build is several years old, so hopefully by the time the photo posts catch up to where the project is at, I’ll resume work on it. I did get to the decal stage, but am having wonky clearcoat issues. The drivetrain also needs a few small parts, but the big stuff is substantially complete.



And Armornut, I also have two 1/12 kits just like you - one a fresh reissue and another tatty boxed, but intact kit. I plan on building one stripped down and the other all buttoned up. That way I can work around the yellowed decals in the older kit.




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Real G, I noticed in your comment about the yellow old decals. Did you know you can get some high quality replacements at a site called www.indycals.net . He offers them from 1/64 up to 1/12 scale. This is not a plug for him really. It’s just I have this car too and purchased some of his custom decals to replace old yellowed ones.

The owner is Michael, he is a great retailer and modeler as well. He offers top quality products and service; like I said, I purchased several different ones. You may want to check him out in the event you would want to make the second car in the colors of the test car; the 76, or the 77 car. Just letting you know…

Ben a.k.a. DRUMS01

Thanks Ben, good to know!

OK here are some additional pics of the body work.

https://flic.kr/p/tbSCrH][/url]P34-016 by N.T. Izumi, on Flickr

https://flic.kr/p/sePvWC][/url]P34-018 by N.T. Izumi, on Flickr

https://flic.kr/p/sUepaE][/url]P34-019 by N.T. Izumi, on Flickr

https://flic.kr/p/tbztro][/url]P34-017 by N.T. Izumi, on Flickr

https://flic.kr/p/trQVd4][/url]P34-022 by N.T. Izumi, on Flickr

Lots and lots of filling/sanding was in order! But I eventually got there.

After a second go-around with filler and sandpaper, the model looked like this.

https://flic.kr/p/uoPT4K][/url]P34-020 by N.T. Izumi, on Flickr

https://flic.kr/p/trN5CT][/url]P34-021 by N.T. Izumi, on Flickr

The aftermarket plate is one of the few PE parts I found useful. The asymmetrical shape is the reason the added rivets on the underside were not even at the front.

https://flic.kr/p/v4ATYF][/url]P34-032 by N.T. Izumi, on Flickr

The pedal group had some heavy mold parting lines that defied my attempts to clean up. Since I had two kits, I removed the pedals from one kit and evened out the base plate. I then took the pedals from the other kit and added them to the cleaned base.

https://flic.kr/p/viKFMw][/url]P34-033 by N.T. Izumi, on Flickr

Looking good G, itching to start mine. By yellow decals do you mean old and yellowed or are you refering to the color of the actual markings? If so I may need that afore mentioned decal address as well.

This is fun to watch, first Formula car I remember seeing built here (since '13, anyway).

Thanks for posting this.

Armornut - By yellow I mean the decals have turned color due to age. But the original kit’s yellow stripes were not the right color. They were supposed to be a kind of fluorescent yellow that the reissued kits have corrected.

Greg - This is my first seroius attempt at an F-1 kit, and it has been a fascinating journey so far. I am learning a lot about F-1 technology as well as the the race itself and the people involved.