I am returning after a few years. I would like to know the rules in posting photos. The only photos that are acceptable are from one’s own camera and not from net sites, as this might be a violation of copyright laws. Is this correct ? Some of my ship models are scratch built from plans. Most the postings on this Forum deal with plastic kits. Is scratch acceptable ?
Inquiring minds want to know.
Anthony!
God love you sir, truly!
Last we talked there were plans for a POF group build.
No such rules, ever. Do it for shekels, sure. But do it for information never a trouble.
Truly sir its great to see you again. You’ll remember me by Bondoman, or some such.
Because the FSM forum does not actually host the pictures, merely link to them, it is easy to link to a picture on the web, but hard to post your own pictures (you need to host them at your own site or find a host).So there is no reason to copy and host a picture one finds on the web.
It is not a copyright violation to post a link.
Thanks Don for your reply. The reason I ask this question, because at one time I would pick various photos from various web sites and e-mail to friends and family. I was told not to make this a practice, as it violates copyright laws, unless permission is granted by the author of the photo.
I use Flickr as a hosting site, as I can chose the size of the photo I wish to use. At the moment, I am in the first stages of wood scratch building the 1/64 scale British sloop-of-war PELICAN from the plans of the late Harold M. Hahn. I notice that the majority of ship models on the FSM site are plastic. Is wood scratch building allowable here ? And how doI use spell check, if available on this posting site.
Inquiring minds want to know.
Crackers [:)]
Wood scratch is certainly acceptable, as most of us love to see someone wo can make more than sawdust out of a pile of wood. I see no reason you can’t double post in the scratch build page as well as the page for whatever the subject matter is.
Can’t wait to see your work in progress andhow things are done, and learn things.
Ahhh, spell check, my pet peeve. Unfortunately after the revamp, spell check dropped off, although I bring it up on occasion, no joy. I will type on Word and copy/past into the post field to keep me from looking like an idiot.
Unfortunately Word can’t help me from actually being an idiot.
Thank you Goldhammer for your response. I am undecided if I should post my PELICAN scratch build under “Scratch building” or “Ships”. As long as my model build is that of a ship, I’m more inclinded to post my log build in the “ship” section, as long as there is no objection to my decision. First, I must organize before I begin my posting.
By the way, is there a speller check on this Forum ? My correct spelling at times needs review.
Thanks, Crackers [:|][:D]
First off welcome back to the forums! [B] [snWcm]
Second, post in both the scratch build and ship forums. It fits both and will be seen by more people.
I don’t think I would ever scratch build a ship, but, I would love to follow along and see one built!
And no, this forum no longer has spell check, I usually paste a word into google and let that spell check for me.
Thanks Hogfanfs for your response. This model was built by the late Harold Hahn. This is NOT my creation, but I hope my model build will look like this model when completed.
The original PELICAN was built in France in 1781, as the privateer FREDRICK. Captured by the 32 gun British frigate EMERALD and taken into the Royal Navy. Served as convoy patrol on the Irish Sea. Sold at the conclusion of hostilities with France in 1784.
Best regards, Crackers [:|][:D]
Crckers,
It’s good to see you back here! Personally, I would love to see your work here in Ships, but if I really have to go to the scratchbuilding section, then I will.
Steve
My main source of research and instructions for building the PELICAN model came from the book, “Ships of the American Revolution and Their Models”, by the late Harold M. Hahn and his three sheet detailed plans of this model. Chapter six, on page 127, Hahn’s book presents first with the history of the PELICAN, as was build as the privateer FREDERICK in 1781 in France. Following pages details the cutting out of numbered frames with a fine hobby band saw. These frames would then be fitted to a mounting jig for stability before planking. Final instructions deal with deck furniture, armament and later masting, yards and rigging.
Since I do not have the good fortune to own a fine hobby band saw, it was considered to use the balsa hull of the Revenue Cutter MORRIS from an old Ideal Model Ship Construction set. Ideal model kits of New York, were popular beginner kits in the 1950s when it was first purchased, then sat forgotten for 50 years gathering dust on a shelf. When rediscovered like some archeological artifact, the decision was made to kit bash this hull into a PELICAN model after the blunt bow was properly shaped and the stern lengthened an inch. When the balsa hull was transformed to the PELICAN dimentions, then it would be planked with 1/4 inch popsicle stick planks cut from my Micro-Mark hobby table saw. I have always thought popsicle sticks would make nice planks, since they are clear and blemish free.
To be continued with hull transformating and planking. Happy modeling, Crackers [:)][:D]
I am so looking forward to this
Now, that the planning stage is considered, here are the tools that will be employed to shape the balsa hull. On the left are assorted files, tweezers, pliers, hobby knife, small saw, pliers and right angle square. The right, are the electrical tools, including the all functional Dremmel Rotary Tool and the Electro-File, a tool like the electric knife that slices the Thanksgiving turkey, only this tool, with its reciprocating motion, saws, files modeling parts.
The bow and the stern of the balsa MORRIS hull both have to be shaped to conform to the PELICAN plans. All those tools listed above will be used to accomplish this task The stern has balsa additions traced from that secion of the PELICAN profile. The spaces will be filled in with Elmer’s Carpenter’s Wood Filler that comes in a tube.
To be continued. Happy modeling Crackers [:|][:)]
Good to see you AVS…I build most of my vessels…utalizing parts from kits, but scratch building most of the vessel. I will be looking forward to your build.
Welcome back…I didn’t know you…but hope too.[H]
Rob
At the left is a clearer picture of the balsa MORRIS hull, where the bow has to be sanded down to the same configuration as on the plans of the PELICAN. Bulkhead additions were added to extend the stern the one inch to agree with the Hahn plan. Open spaces between the extended bulkhead additions were filled with Elmer’s Carpenter’s Wood Filler.
If I may put in a plug for Elmer’s wood filler, that should be included in every wood modeler’s box. Unlike most wood fillers that are packed in cans, this filler is contained in a plastic tube that is squeezed out like tooth paste, then the lid screwed back on. This has the advantage of having the filler remaining soft without contact to the air, unlike most canned fillers that soon dry out into a hard lump to be discarded.
Trying to shape the balsa bow to agree with the Hahn plan required more planning. Consulting the plan drawings, the waterlines, which are horizontal stations drawn fore and aft, delinates the shape of the hull from the keel upward to the top of the bulwarks. On the Hahn plan, these waterline stations are marked “A” at the keel, then move upward to “F” at the waterline, where the ship meets its watery environment.
At each water line station at the bow, cardboard templates were cut out and labeled as seen at the left picture. Taking my Electro-File and inserting a sanding pad on the tip of the instrument, the bump on the balsa bow was gradually sanded down, while every so often, a bow cardboard template was inserted where a penciled “A” to “F” station was drawn to see that the sanding agreed with the template profile. After a slow sanding process, the balsa bow took the shape of the Hahn plan bow.
Now that the balsa bow and stern agree with the PELICAN plan, it’s time to begin planking the hull with 1/4 inch wide planks cut from popsicle sticks on a hobby table saw. Before planking, the keel, the bow cutwater and the rudder stem was glued in place. Each horizontal plank was held in place with small elastic bands. Metal planking screws with an attached tab to hold the plank in place and also to prevent the plank from slipping sideways by the pull of the elastic bands. The copper penny gives the scale of the project.
The hull planking is now completed and brush painted with Minwax Polyurethane, to seal the wood and fill tiny spaces. Painting the hull with acrylic paints will happen later.
Before the deck planking began, each popsicle plank was rubbed with a black felt tip pen to sinulate the oakum and tar cauking that was used on the real 18th century ship to prevent water from leaking between the planks onto the inside deck.
It’s time now to plank the deck. To hold the model hull upright in a secure position, Model Shipways, Fair-A-Frame was used for this purpose. This device is used to build plank-on-bulkhead model ships, where the keel is secured in place by two horizontal clamps held in place by winged screws, while vertical supports prop up each bulkhead.
Here, the deck planking process has begun, while on the right panel, planking is completed. This panel also shows how the Fair-A-Frame holds the model hull secure. Wooden pegs were placed in holes where future masts were to be inserted. While decking planking, these wooden pegs made sure deck planking was accomplished around the mast holes, rather than over these holes.
The completed deck planking was stained with Minwax Golden Oak stain.
To make sure the mast holes were drilled absolutely true and straight in a vertical position for the future masts, a template was devised consisting of a plastic soda straw held in a upright position by wooden triangular supports. This template was placed over the mast holes and drilled deeper by my Dremel Cordless Electric Drill. The right panel is only for demonstration purposes. When actually drilling, both hull and template were held firmly in hand. Using a 90’ right angle straight edge as a check, all three holes were found to be accurate.
I see by the clock, it’s bed time. To be continued by copper simulation of the hull bottom.
Happy modeling Crackers [:|][:D]
Applying copper sheathing on the hull of a ship. Ever since mankind took to the sea in ships four or more thousand years ago, a persistant problem was how to prevent the growth of marine organisms on hull bottoms that reduced the speed of the vessel. The ancient Romans used lead sheathing with limited results. In the 17th century, European maritime nations coated their ship’s bottoms with white lead with other componants. That’s why models of 17 and 18th century ships have white hulls. In October 1761, a permanent solution was found when the British Admiralty coppered the 32 gun frigate ALARM with a copper bottom. Deployed to the Caribbean on a trial experament, the ALARM returned to England with positive results when in drydock. It was found that the green copper oxide poisoned any marine organism that tried to attach itself. However, it was noticed that the iron spikes used to attach the copper sheats had some deterioration, as the English did not understand the process of electrolysis chemical reaction between two different metals in sea water. Not until a copper alloy of copper and zinc spikes used for attachment was the problem solved. The ALARM had a 34 year career when broken up at Portsmouth in 1812.
After the FREDERICK was captured in 1781 and her lines taken off in England, it was noted that she was copper bottomed. This probably was one of the first private French ships to receive this treatment, a theory that she was destined to have special planning before her abrupt privateering career.
On my model of the PELICAN, a "copper’ bottom is to be attached. First, the horizontal waterline on the plan, labeled station “F”, was transferred from the plan to the model hull by using draftsman’s dividers. Each point was noted with a pencil mark. When completed, the marks were joined by a line around the hull that designated the waterline. Masking tape was then pressed in place above the waterline, as seen on the right panel.
Tissue tracing paper was then attached to the model hull with clamps securing the paper on the keel. A pencil was then drawn around the masking tape to indicate the area that is to be “coppered”. This section was cut out with scissors as a template and set aside. Without any complaint from “the queen of the kitchen”, my wife gladly gave me her aluminum cooking foil for the “coppering” operation.
On a long rectangular strip of aluminum foil, the tracing paper template of one side of the hull was first soaked in water, then set in place on the aluminum foil. Soaking in water made the paper adhere to the foil. The same process for the port side, then the aluminum was carefully cut out with an Exacto hobby knife, as indicated on the right panel.
The aluminum foil is to represent the copper sheathing on the real PELICAN. These two "copper"replicas were then attached to their respective places on the hull with Elmer’s Spray Adhesive, then rubbed with finger tips constantly to remove any wrinkles on the surface. When this process was completed, the foil was painted with FolkArt metallic copper acryllic paint. When dried, the “copper” surface was then lightly coated with Apple Barrel lime green to simulate copper oxide patina on a real vessel.
On the left is the finished results with the masking tape on the waterline yet to be removed. After the tape was pulled off, the upper section of the hull was painted with FolkArt yellow ochre acryllic paint, as was common on British ships of that era.
To be continued with construction of the model base and support. Happy modeling
Crackers [8-)][:D]
Alright Crackers ;
We, in Ships and Scratch - Building are watching you . Nice start so far . Don’t worry about spelling , if you get the point across , who Cares ? Now that your back , which is great - Git Hustlin . Tanker - Builder
Thanks Tanker-Builder for your response. I thought I’d get more interest in my thread.
Crackers [*-)][:)]
Crackers,
I for one am following along with great interest. Seeing someone scratch build a wooden ship model is amazing and instructive. I do not think I could scratch build a ship although I do tend to scratch small things for my plastic ships.
Please keep posting. I know how frustrating it can be when you take the effort to post a WIP and you see how many views you are getting but very few replies or comments. Sorry, I do not want to sound negative, but I have a migraine.
Steve
I’m here, just watching and learning.