Great job Steve. Nothing better than a NMF Hun. [B]
Well, today I was able to spray a coat of MM Interior Green in the wheel wells and all the gear bays. I have seen others where these areas were bare metal, but my uncle who I’m building this for said he recalls these areas being green. He worked on an F-100D at Phu-Cat Viet Nam., so if he says green then this one will be green. His plane was SEA camo version, 355th Fighting Falcons, USAF.
Here are some pics of my progress. Had some paint creep under my masking tape, but cleaned it up easily enough with PT and Q-tips. will have to touch up a few spots with a brush.
Yeah there are some pin marks on the smaller panels. How do you all remove these?
Also discoverd today superglue eats MM paint, and so does debonder! [*-)][00ps]
mailwalker,
which Monogram kit is that? The trees look identical to mine.
modelcrazy, it is kit #5471. Got it off EBay. It was missing an intake piece, but Revell was kind enough to send me a replacement.
It’s not the same box at least, but I’ll bet it’s the same kit. I was missing the canopy and the carpet monster eet my pilots are (I wasn’t going to use him anyway).
That’s the kit I’m using for this and other GB’s.
Modelcrazy, Care to tell how you did the aft section on the F-100. I have some Model Master non-buff ready to try.
Sure,
I used Alclad II, but MM will work just as well. I sprayed light coats of Alclad Steel over the Alclad Dull Aluminum, followed by streaks of MM Artic Blue Metallic (for the cars in my stash). Tonight I’m going to add just a hint of MM Jet Exhaust in vertical streaks over the current application of blue and a smidge more Artic Blue just in front of the nozzle.
I downloaded some Hun pics from the internet as a guide. Looking at several different examples, you can’t really go wrong, just don’t overdue it.
If all you have is the MM, then try varying lighter and heaver applications in small streaks over your silver, followed by a very light application (and low pressure) of blue near the nozzle, until you feel it’s about right.
The picture I took last night is a little dark and doesn’t do the area justice.
Hope this helps. [:D]
Steve
Got started on my Counter Invader so the first thing on the agenda was to extend the IP for dual controls along with scratch building a second control column. These are preliminary shots and the parts still need cleaning up, sanding, fitting and detailing.
The B-26K used KC-135 brakes and wheels so I picked these up and have plenty as I plan on doing a couple more down the road.
Dog gone it!
I was doing some finishing touches, wanted to touch up the canopy frame, and masked it off just a little bit. After I sprayed, I pulled off the masking tape and oops, up come some decals. After some choice words, I ordered a new set (the same set I originally ordered for the Hun).
Oh well, I can use some of the “No Step” and other decals to add to my F 104. They should be here in about a week. I’ll unveil both the the F 100 and F 104 at that time after I get them on.
And no, I didn’t have the decals sealed yet.
Stupid, stupid, stupid. [bnghead]
Hi Mailwalker,
If your uncle says they were green, then I agree, they were green. How can you argue with someone that was there and especially if he worked on them!
As far as removing those pesky ejector pin marks, one method I have heard about is using Mr. Surfacer 500.
Also very sorry to hear about your paint job getting messed up by Super Glue and debonder. On that same note, I found out the hard way that “Zip Kicker” CA accelerator will also eat paint. I hope you are able to recover without too much trouble.
Ken
Thank you Steve for those great tips! I will be keeping those handy for when I build my Hun!
Ken
Hi Plasticjunkie,
Great start on your Counter Invader! How did you make those parts for the instrument panel and yoke? They look great!
Also great information about the brakes and wheels! I will be keeping those in my notes when I build my A-26A (aka B-26K).
Ken
Hi Steve,
Big bummer about your decals! Really sorry to hear that. I hope you recover without too much effort.
Ken
Steve
That can happen to anyone so don’t beat yourself.
Ken
The IP extensions are thin plastic sheet trimmed and Tenaxed on. I then added the lip on the IP top from very thin plastic sheet and Tenaxed in place. Things were then sanded to blend in the joins. The control column is stretched sprue and secured with Tenax.
Here’s a bit more info on the K:
Reading from the A-26 Invader in Action Squadron Series book, it details that the K’s were highly modified by a firm called On-Mark Engineering Company located in Van Nuys, California in 1964. The wings were strengthened and rebuilt and the fuselages remanufactured without the turrets. They added the beefier KC-135 brakes and tires, Pratt & Whitney R-2800-103W, a monster prop, wing tip tanks, enlarged dorsal fin and updated avionics. They served with the USAF 609th SOS well into late 1969. The last known fully armed Invader in military use made its last flight in July of 1977 under Indonesian Air Force service.
The Invader aircraft had quite a colorful and long service record starting in WWII, and going thru Korea, the Congo, Angola, Cuba and Nam.
Did a little work today and got things sanded to shape. Next thing will be to shoot some interior green and start working on the IP.
Thank you Plasticjunkie for the “how to” and the information on the Counter Invader. Very much appreciated!
Ken
Great job Plasticjunkie! That looks really nice! [Y] [Y]
Ken
Thanks guys, everything is done with exception of replacing the “US AIR FORCE” and some rescue decals. It should only take a minute or two, then I’ll take some pics.
Thanks Ken.
Got the office done. Did some shading and washes then made some belts from wine foil and secured them to the seats with Future. I then shot everything with Alclad clear flat.
Most of the interior details will be very hard to see once the fuselage is closed and the canopy is attached.
