Hi Steve,
It still looks pretty good from the picture. [Y] [Y]
I have heard that you must have a perfect finish before using that Alclad. I have several bottles of it myself but have never used it yet. The only metal paint I have used is the Model Master Metalizer. It worked pretty good. One bonus of using it is the fact it is made to go directly on bare plastic.
Ken
Thanks Ken,
I used Model Master acrylic for the primer. I usually spray acrylics and like their look, however I’ve never tried gloss acrylic. It sprayed very nice, and apparently didn’t have any reaction to the lacquer Alclad.
I went through 1/2 a bottle of the Polished Aluminum, but I may not have needed to use that much, I’m still learning. I will try a different approach on the F100, but still use the acrylic as a base.
Steve
SOMM
Not a problem about the F-102. I had totally forgotten about my 1/72 Italeri B-26K Counter Invader. I have some great “Naughty Invaders” decals to go with it so please put me down for this one.
Decals are for a USAF B-26K from Operation Steel Tiger in Laos, 1966-1969 and based at Nakom Phanom with the 609th SOS, 59th SOW.
Excellent Plasticjunkie! Welcome aboard! [snWcm] I am updating the roster on the front page. We look forward to seeing your build!
Ken
Thanks Ken. Sorting things out for this build and will be posting soon.
Well, I was hoping to make this a simple OOB build but it doesn’t look that way. Preliminary recon on the subject revealed that Italeri goofed in the cockpit area as they included it for the WWII and Korea version of the A-26B/C variant having one pilot, one control yoke and a jump seat. The K version was modified to have dual controls and a co-pilot. Shouldn’t be too much of a hassle to extend the IP and scratch out a second yoke.
The wheels are wrong too as they were the KC-135 type along with the wing mounted MG’s that need to be removed. There is also a missing tail beacon. Pretty simple fixes otherwise the exterior looks very good with recessed lines and the correct armament.
Thanks, Ken! Not much to show for so long but at least I’m moving forward [:)].
Russ
That is too bad that you will need to do the extra work on that kit to make it right. But it shows how diligent you are about doing the research and the willingness to make it right. Kudos to you for that! [Y]
Ken
Here’s my F100 update.
Still need to install several more parts, but here the new pics (the color is supposed to dark olive green)
Nice work Steve! It is definitely looking like a Super Sabre! [Y] [Y]
Ken
Looks good, Steve!
Russ
Well after several family emergencies keeping me busy, I finally have gotten a chance to do something.
Keep in mind I am no expert, just wanting to learn and get better.
I have some cleanup to do on the olive drab and of course more paint to add, and I have got the fuel
tanks and armament glued up. Not satisfied with the smudginess of the controls. Pointers?
Here is my first attempt at dry brushing, not real satisfied. Any tips? I always dip my brush in thinner before painting to make it easier to clean, is this a mistake?
Here’s my Hun so far. I still need to mask off some panels and the rear exhaust area befor I spray the gloss and add decals. I know it looks kinda messy, but the F 100, from what I’ve seen, just doesn’t have that polished look like the F 104 seems to have.
Comments, criticisms welcome.
Steve
That looks very nice. I like the feel you got on the metal, well done.
Theuns
Hi Mailwalker,
I think it looks pretty good so far. One thing that I have become accustomed to is how the camera and it’s ability to take close ups will show even the smallest amount of imperfections. With that said, it is very hard to get a close up of anything to look good.
As far as pointers, the only thing I can add is the way I try to get the small detail like the cockpit to look good.
First, I use a Donegan OptiVisor Headband Magnifier. I use different magnifications depending on what I am doing. I also use a couple of the lights that are meant for the OptiVisor. This way I can get a real get “close up” while I am working on the subject.
Next I use a super small paint brush. It is so small that the paint will dry on the brush before I get it to the subject I am painting. So it takes a little practice to get used to. Here is a link to the one I use:
http://store.spruebrothers.com/product_p/amwbrush01.htm
One other thing. I will paint the cockpit base color with gloss paint before adding any wash or detail. This way if I do make a mistake, it is easy to wipe off and start over. When the cockpit is finished, then I will spray a coat of flat clear to take away the shine and seal it up.
When dry brushing, you want the brush “dry”. Dipping the brush into thinner first is okay as long as you get the brush dry using paper towel before you attempt to add the detail. If the brush is too wet, it will coat everything and the real object is to get the highlights accented and not get any paint into the recessed areas.
This will all take practice, so don’t get discouraged if it doesn’t come out perfect the first time. Just keep working at it and you will get better.
Ken
Ken
Mailwalker
Ken gave you some great pointers which is similar to my approach. I would like to throw in a couple more if you don’t mind.
When doing the pit, I like to airbrush the base color first. This lays down a VERY thin paint coat not obscuring any of the faint raised details you want to dry brush later. I usually mix acrylic paint with Future to gloss up the flat finish which will create a barrier for the dark washes that you want to show up as sharp details adding depth and contrast. When that dries then I lightly paint the IPs flat black being careful to lay down a light coat.
When dry you can then either dry brush the instrumentation light grey or white with the brush being 99% dry. I sometimes punch out instrument decal faces and use them for the instruments.
It takes patience and practice
Steve
The Hun looks very nice and looks like the NMF is spot on.
Thank you Ken and Steve. Those tips and encouragement are exactly what I needed. This modeling is a little harder than I thought as far as the detailing goes. I love it though. A lot different from slapping goopy glue and paint on plastic back 25-30 yrs ago. I’m looking to improve, and you all and FSM have already set me on the right path!
Yeah, you can’t get much better advice than from plasticjunkie, Ken and others.
I’m ready for decals, weathering and finishing touches.
Great work there Steve! [Y] [Y] You did a great job with that metalizer paint. The exhaust end of the fuselage looks spot on. And the wash you added really makes the detail pop! Very realistic looking!
Ken