Resin Casting for (Armor) Beginners

Some people from the Modern GB asked I would put some information on casting. So without further adoo…

Items you will need before we can start

Ok…time to make a shopping trip. Don’t use your wife’s (or girlfriend’s) kitchen stuff as once she sees what you are doing you might be in pain![#dots]

These are the common items needed, you may have some that you can use but ask the kitchen boss first:

  • A digital kitchen scale or a decent analog spring scale, preferably measuring also in grams. ~$20 - $50 (Bed Bath & Beyond or similar)
  • Small graduated measuring cups, For starters nothing more than 400 ml. ~$2 (Bed Bath & Beyond or similar)
  • Small set of Lego blocks with a Lego board. A nice size for the board should be about 6 to 8 inches square. ~$10 (E-bay) or for small five sided items an old Altoids box or similar shallow box.
  • Bag of Popsicle sticks. $2 (Michael’s or similar)
  • Clear bathroom cups or small drinking cups. ($3 Sam’s Club or similar)
  • Scrap card board, paper towels, and a table to work on.

The “stuff” consists of two parts. One is the material to make a mold the other is the casting resin to make the parts.

  • Smooth-On Mold Max 30 molding rubber, one quart kit for $30
  • Smooth-On Smooth Cast 300 series casting resin, starter kit $30

You can find these products at:

http://www.smooth-on.com/

By time you are done you will invest ~$95 - $125 to set up your casting. This will allow you to cast simple small parts like bedrolls, ammo boxes, tires, etc. Complex shapes and large size items won’t work well and become very difficult (unless you become very good at this at which point you may be doing more of this and less modeling).

Be advised these casting products, based on the manufacturer, have a limited shelf life ~2 months once opened. They also go a long way so if you are going to try this you should line up a number of things you want to make. Make molds of all the items and then cast your items. Think ahead and cast spares rather than throw away spoiled resin. Look at what you want to cast and what you think the value may be to justify the expense of doing your own casting. This may not work for everyone.

Making the mold

There are two types of molds. A five sided mold, where one part is intended to be glued to the model and will not show. These are the easier of the two. An example is a backpack or bedroll or what I am showing here a doors

Layout what you are going to mold and leave space between them, I like 2 Lego stick ups all around each item.

Begin building Lego wall around all the items with the same spacing of 2 Lego stick ups.

Make the wall a minimum of 1 block taller than the tallest item

For these types of molds I like a flat bottom finish so cut a piece of cardboard the size of the floor and insert it. Use double stick tape and hold down the item you want to cast.

Now we are ready. First figure out how much compound you will need to mix. Measure the length, width and height in inches of the inside of the mold. Then take out the old calculator, convert the fractions to decimals and

Length x Width x Height x 16.387 = XX ml of compound

Weigh out in a measuring cup the Part A rubber (white material in big jar). Measure to the volume you calculated above. Now look at the scale and weight you have of part A (hopefully you zero the scale with the empty measuring cup first). Take that weight (I find it easier if the scale is set to grams) and divide by 10. Add that amount of the cure agent (red stuff in glass bottle. It is important that you get the correct ratio of 10 to 1 part A & B “BY WEIGHT” of the Mold Max 30. Stir with a popsicle stick until the mixture is uniformly “Pepto Pink”.

Now we are ready to pour. This material is thick and holds air. Since we don’t have a vacuum unit, we get the air out by pouring very slowly from about 2 feet above the mold. As the material stretches out over the pour the air is released. Once the mold is full, put it off to the side as it will need a good 24 hours to cure. Any minor spills or the measuring cup will be easier to clean when the material cures.

After the mold has cured, peel back the Lego blocks down to the board and take out the mold.

Remove the master items and you now have a mold.

Casting a Part in the mold

OK…You are half way there. Now we are ready to cast a part. First, let’s figure out how much compound we will need for the part. Put a measured amount of water in your measuring cup, about half full to a whole measurement (I prefer ml as opposed to oz). Drop the part into the water and see how much the level increases. That’s how much compound (with maybe 10% extra) you will need. Since the casting compound is mixed 1 to 1 “BY VOLUME”

Using your throw away plastic cups and water, measure ½ the amount you will need using the water and put it into your measuring cup. Pour it into the throw away cup and make a pen or tape mark on the cup. Now add another ½ amount of water and make another pen or tape mark. Pour out the water and dry you cup (make sure it is completly dry)

Fill the cup to the first mark with part A. Fill to the second mark with B and mix with a Popsicle stick. As soon as it is mixed pour slowly into the mold. Remember, your time is limited as this material begins to cure anywhere from 3 to 10 minutes after you mix them (depending on which one of the 300 series compounds you buy. Longer is better)

Mixed material cleans up better after cured. Separate A or B needs to be wiped up. Now wait until material cures, ~10 - 30 minutes. You will see it turn completely white from clear.

Once cured, pop the part from the mold

TA DA!!! You did it.

Tires or all sided items are molded in a split mold. Everything is done the same as above except you have to cut ~2/3 the way around the tire or part to get it out. Then you just refill the mold and once cured open it and remove the new part.

Once the split mold is closed you pour the resin in through the top.

I am by no means an expert at this and I have to thank an instruction seminar at AMPSEAST on casting and hints. After this, it is trial and experiment and find what works for you. Hopefully the bit I have shown here is enough to either get you started or based on your circumstance, convince you not to try it. (I’m no “Doog”) (Trust me, I’m better with slide presentations)[banghead]

This is not worth the investment unless you cast up a whole bunch of stuff you know you are either currently or going to use in the future or making one of a kind item over and over again. As I said in the Modern GB, I needed about 120 105mm ammunition crates for the build I was working on and since I have other builds of 105mm, I will probably cast close to 200 crates!! That alone will take care of my investment.

Next let me say, this is time consuming. Between making molds, casting items, trimming (if required) finished items and cleanup. You need to plan to either have a separate spot or table for casting. When your casting, your casting…its not like working on kits where you can switch from one task or kit to another. You don’t want to mix the two.

Lastly, let me say again, DO NOT COPY items and sell them. It is against the law. Make items for your own modeling use only. Otherwise have fun!!

Hope you enjoyed this and maybe get something from it!! (I tried)[:-^]

Any questions feel free to ask.

Rounds Complete!!

redleg[:)]–man that was a very simple to understand and helpful tutorial!! – you make it seem simple and do-able–I put this on a disk for future reference-- thanks man!!—tread[8D]

Dang Redleg, GREAT tutorial! Like you said, it may not be worth it to me without a ton of stuff to cast…but it sure is good to know how to do it if need be. Wow.

Uhhh…what other stuff are you planning on casting? [:-^]

Dupes

Right now I’m working on 105mm ammo crates, ammo, tires, bed rolls, packs, etc, etc.

I have a list for the kits in my stash. I’ll be busy during Christmas vacation.

Tread

Thanks. I’m glad you liked it.

Rounds Complete!!

WOW Thanks for the excellent tutorial redleg! This is definently going into “my favorites”.

Chris,

Nice tutorial and i will also be keeping a copy i’ve been concidering trying this for sometime now and had a rough idea about it but this just puts all the pieces together perfectly, thanks for taking the time to put this together i for one very much appreciate it [:)]

Thank you, Redleg, I don’t know if I would ever do something like this but I feel that I could, now! You could write a ‘casting for dummies’ book[:D] Seriously, thanks for all the time you put into that, great work.

Agree with all–GREAT TUTORIAL!

I have been curious as to how to do this, and it’s nice to know that it doesn’t seem as hard as I has thought. The cost and short shelf time of the products is a little daunting, but when I decide I need to go this route, I’lll have this baby bookmarked!

Thanks for taking the time!

RedLeg12,

Great lil how to!

If you find the two part mold casting in the manner you described (cutting the part out afterwards) to be cumbersome it really is quite simple to just pour the “first half” of your mold, let it setup, then topcoat with paint (let it dry) the exposed portions of silicone. Then make your second pour and when it’s setup the paint will have acted as a barrier to keep the two pours of silicone from bonding to each other. This is good for the detail on all sides or to produce ‘hollow’ pieces, say you want that ammo case, but only the opened case and still have the interior to display when you prop a seperate lid upon it. At some point you’ll also start to work with ‘pour stubs’ and such too- but that’s the fun of casting. You never end the quest to refine your process and results!

I got this tip from another FSM member about resin. I keep it in the frig. It does take longer to harden but since I pressure cast this helps me. I have resin that I have had for a year and it still makes a good product. I believe one of the limiting factors is that air gets into the resin and starts it to “harden” or what ever, in the frig it slows this. I also squeeze the bottles so that there is less air in them. I guess you could get some of the stuff from micro-mark that you “squirt” into the bottles to help it last longer. I don’t really know what it is but, my guess is that it is CO2 or Nitrogen (they’re heavier than oxygen and push it out).

Grizz

Very informative thread…thanks for taking the time…

MrSqiud

Thanks for that added idea. As I said I’m no master at this but like modeling itself, the more you do, the more you learn. I may try your idea for a split mold on some tires. And yes I have been looking at pour stubs.

Thanks for your addition, I put this in to help some people who asked. You have helped me with some other ideas.

That is the whole purpose of this site.[:-^]

Rounds Complete!!

Grizz

Thanks for the advice. Pressure Cast…wow that deep into cating!!!

I’m hoping I won’t have much left after this round of casting but as I said I goes a looooonnng way.

I don’t know if the wife would like my modeling stuff in the fridge but I have the resin in the basement which is cool.

I’ll see how we do with this batch and modify from there but all the information helps. Thanks again.

Rounds Complete!!

Once you’v made your molds are they able to be shelfed? Example your door mold there. Can you now throw the mold on the shelf and use it again 6 monthes or a year from now? Just curious.

NO, they do not go bad. All the molds I’ve made can stay on the shelf and in 6 months, a year, I can cast in them again.

Once the molds are cast, they are cured rubber. I’m sure if they are used a LOT they may begin to wear, but if you have a master you could always make another.

For the amount I am casting I’m pretty sure they won’t wear out!!

PS…The molds lasting presumes cool or constant temperature, relitivly dry storage. I’m sure if you put them in the shed in the summer heat they might get deformed.

Rounds Complete!!

Re: Molds

As stated those molds seemingly ‘last’ and I don’t even know how long but some of mine are going on over five years now with occassional use?

But if you simply make a ‘bad’ one or have one go ‘bad’ don’t toss it! Chop it up and use it as ‘filler’ within a bigger new mold you have to make. Just keep your old pieces (filler) away from the subject matter so that new silicone does it’s job up picking up the details while you conserve that valuable new mold making material! Larger subjects require larger molds in regard to the area surrounding the subject and this is where the technique really comes in handy.

BTW: As stated there are air bubbles within poured silicone (and resin too) and since molds take awhile to get away from that viscous state another easy thing to do is place your mold and a ‘vibrating device’ within an open top box but make sure it will remain in one place. Let that “device” rattle and hum while you watch the air bubbles come floating up to the surface! Otherwise even with a careful pour you can have a bubble cling to the master and obscure detail when you pour resin later.

Oh, I guess you can add that ‘device’ to the things you don’t tell wifey (or GF) you borrowed![:D]

HAHAHAHA [(-D]

Molds don’t “go bad” but you using frequently the resin will “eat them up”. I read somewhere that you may get 30 or so castings before you start losing detail. I’ve never had that problem because I don’t do that many of one casting. Also, some one sells a “conditioner” for molds to help them last form many castings. Again I don’t use one mold that much so I don’t worry about it.

Grizz

PS I live alone so there is no one to tell me I can’t keep somthing in the frig.[:D]

To add a couple more ‘tricks’ here’s something that came up in an offline conversation with RedLeg:

Air bubbles ‘clinging’ to the ‘surface of the master within the mold’ can obscure detail and ruin an otherwise good pour of resin so-

One thing you might try even with fast setting resin is two- okay, two things you might try:

1)If you are using a ‘two part mold’ with a pour stub for acess- take a lil piece of brass wire down through the pour stub ‘hole’ and gently rake the surfaces of the mold to dislodge air bubbles immediately after you pour the resin while it’s still liquid.

  1. If you have those two parts (mold halves) secured by wrapping them together in tape- just squeeze the whole mold while the resin is fresh and soft, a couple of times. The whole idea being to ‘move’ those air bubbles off the details, nooks and crannies where they’ll cling.

All of this is avoided with pressure casting but for benchtop casting that the normal home hobbyist does these two lil tricks will work and help to reduce your number of ‘bad castings’.

Not the way a ‘pro’ would do it- but hey, we’re hobbyists![:D]

Mr Squid

Thanks for all your input. Between the basic information I put in this thread and all the hints and ideas you have shared there is a lot of information here for anyone who want to try this. Again Thanks, I know at least you helped me!!

Grizz

Thanks to you also, again you have helped with your tips.

All

I hope this has been somewhat informative. Hopefully even insperational for a few. In any case for those who said thanks, you are more than welcome.

Rounds Complete!!