I have just gotten started again on modeling earlier this year, and up to this point have carried my parts outside for priming, using a rattle can. I do not like the lack of control with the rattle can, and it is getting too wet to be going outside every time I need to prime something.
Here is the problem; all I have found when searching around the net is tiny bottles of surface primer for $4 a piece! Seems crazy expensive to me (I have not yet stopped by my LHS to ask him about primer).
I do not have a paint booth, so have airbrushed exclusively with acrylics. Are there any other options for finding something less expensive that I can airbrush for primer?
You can always decant from a spray bomb, and remember that you will be using lots less than you think so even that small bottle will last you a long time. I have had great luck decanting Tamyia primer but as of late I have been using Alclad and Valejo primers to great affect.
You are in for a surprise, don’t let those $4 bottles of primer fool your eyes. Properly thinned they go a long way and since you have more control over the output, they can be cheaper than the rattle cans. Less is more here.
I’ve heard Mr. Surfacer 1200 does work well as a primer; but I still prefer the $1 a can ColorPlace (formerly DupliColor brand) primer in rattle-cans from Wally-World.
I have heard of the $1 a can primer, but have never found it out at my WM. Best I can do is close to $4 for a rattle can.
Does the Mr. Surfacer require thinning also? Would I be able to “stretch” a bottle out by thinning it? The one little shop I have access to had Mr. Surfacer products, but a few months ago I was looking for the 500 and he said he was having trouble getting it. He may have had the 1200.
Thanks for all the replies, I appreciate the help!
I can’t speak for all Wally-Worlds everywhere; but at the ones I frequent the ColorPlace primers are all three located together (White, Gray & Primer Red) towards the bottom shelf.
Yes, correct it is lacquer based (I missed that bit), but Mr Surfacer is also lacquer based - Vallejo acrylic primer does come to mind though. Here is the Vallejo product page & a product review;
I’ve used the Vallejo and it seems to have done a decent job. Mind you, I’ve only used it once on my most recent model and this is my first time using my AB.
yeah, Mr. Surfacer requires thinning from the bottle. there is three different versions of surfacer in the bottle. 500,100,and 1200. 500 being the thickest. i use surfacer straight from the can though. it has more control over the tamiya primer spray can wise. tamiya also makes a surface primer. bottle and spray can. it requires lacquer thinner for thinning. you can use mr.color thinner for the mr.surfacer.
Tamiya’s bottled primers can also be thinned with denatured alcohol (ethyl alcohol, not Isopropyl) without any apparent ill-effects. Tamiya lacquer thinner and Gunze Mr Color thinner are more or less interchangeable and can be used for both Tamiya Liquid Surface Primer (bottled) and Mr Surfacer.
Acrylics don’t really need a primer on plastic models, though I’ve heard a few such as Lifecolor may have some problems adhering without it. Acrylics made for models such as MM Acryl, Vallejo, Tamiya, etc. generally stick just fine. Prep the model surface by washing the plastic to get of any mold release agents and spray away. The first two models I did coming back to the hobby were done with Vallejo Model Air without a primer, and went on perfectly in terms of coverage (thinning them down enough for fine mottled camo was a different story…) I was able to mask with Tamiya tape an hour after spraying with no pullup.
If you need to spray a base coat to check for rough spots and provide color consistency then just use a neutral color from whatever acrylic line you’re spraying.
Was able to make a quick stop by the LHS. He had no acrylic primer at all. He suggested that I make sure and wash my parts before painting, and then I should not need primer.
One thing I did not mention, was that I have been using artists acrylics, not “official” model paint. Maybe it does not adhere as well as a Tamiya or Model Master?
I can say for certain that I have not always paid attention to making sure my parts had been cleaned up. I have tried wiping parts off with rubbing alcohol, but I have not made a side-by-side comparison, and I have not always remembered to do that. I will say that without primer, the paint looks awful. Now that may be only because of my poor preparation, and I have been making up for that with the rattle can primer, I don’t know.
It is difficult for me to describe, but the paint just does not “stick”.
As for my choice of paint, I would be interested in what others have used. I found out early on that I could get a small fortune tied up in $3.50 bottles of paint. My situation at present does not allow me to do that; furthermore, I have had a lot of fun (and some frustration) mixing up colors. I am happy when I come up with my own interpretation of “zinc chromate” green, or gull gray. All that said, maybe it is time for me to try building up a stock of paint, but I know I can get nice results with the artists acrylics and primer.
Thanks for all the replies and advice, I appreciate hearing what others are doing and have done, it is very helpful.
I agree but I don’t wash my parts as they are constantly handled, glued, cut, sanded, etc. all while getting skin oils, dirt and dust on them.
Just before painting I will scuff the plastic some with a Scotchbrite pad like you scour pots and pans with and then wipe the pieces with Poly S Plastic Prep or use 91% Isopropyl alcohol on a lint free rag. blow it off with some air from the airbrush and don’t touch it with your bare hands and paint away.
If I prep this way I never have a paint lifting problem masking with Tamiya tape.