I’m apprehensive about attempting this model using this forum, but I don’t know any other way of using the collective knowledge available on this site. Six years ago I built a subwoofer (never built anything like that before) while using a bass speaker forum. That worked out better than I could have dreamed. Here’s hoping something like that happens again.
All I have done at this point is wash the parts & let them dry. I thought my first action was to paint the main body parts with primer. Here’s a pic of everything laid out after cleaning.
I recently made a model of a 1969 Pontiac GTO (my first model in 50+ years) & it was pretty bad. I want to do this one better. I owned this car for 18 years, so it’s special to me. Any help and/or advice will be greatly appreciated.
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BTW, I want to paint the car white with a tan leather interior - like the car I owned.
Looks like a reasonable parts count for your second kit. I would definitely shoot a light color primer over that interior if you want to go tan. Also, looking at your desktop - if you don’t have Tamiya thin cement order some. Tube glue has it’s place but I almost exclusively use Tamiya thin. Also a set of nippers if you don’t have them. What color will the body be? Do you have a picture of your 1:1 car?
I don’t have the thin cement. Is it called “Tamiya Extra Thin Cement”? I keep reading comments about how valuable a good Sprue cutter is. I guess I’ll get one of those, too.
I had my Jag from 1984-2002. I’ve been looking for some pictures I know I have but they’re playing hard to get right now. Meanwhile, I found these pics on DuckDuckGo that look like my car -
My car was left-hand drive, but this interior looks like mine other than that. The model also has right-hand drive, so I guess I’ll live with that. The model also has the “European-style” headlights that I always wanted on mine but never did it.
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Correct on both accounts!
That Tamiya Extra Thin Cement comes in a little square glass bottle with a green top. It’s a game changer for the hobby. It is EXTRA THIN and will run everywhere, so less is more on the little applicator brush. If you get some extra on the plastic, don’t try to wipe it off, as it instantly softens the styrene. Just let it air-dry and there won’t be any damage.
Also: become religious about screwing the cap back on after every use. If you leave the cap loose it’ll all evaporate astonishingly fast.
I learned both these lessons that hard way … more than once. Don’t be like me 
A good set of sprue cutters will save you a ton of time cleaning parts, and prevent damage when removing from the sprue. I really like the ultra fine ones from Stedi.
Welcome Boomer! I recently got back into modeling cars after a long hiatus too. This forum has been a great (and enjoyable) resource. The folks here are very generous with their expertise and encouragement. Best of luck with the Jag!
Apparently I don’t have many pictures of my Jag, but I finally found this one from 2001 - on a cross-country drive - parked here with the Cadillac Ranch on the horizon.
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It looks pretty much exactly like the stock photo I originally posted.
