HobbyBoss 1/48 Hurricane Mk. I, F/O McKnight, Aug 1940

A little extra time on Friday means I get to finally put all that study and research into the murky waters of Early War RAF Roundels and Squadron Codes into practice. I leaned most heavily on the few known-period photos of 242 squadron – known period being late summer, Battle of Britain. (McKnight is sitting on the wing directly below the cockpit in the group photo – right over Doug Bader’s right shoulder.)

Here’s where I’ve arrived for a late August 1940 Hurricane, all-sky underside and no sky fuselage band:

  • Upper wing: 49" Type B
  • Fuselage: 35" Type A1
  • Underwing: 40" Type A
  • Squadron codes: 30", light grey

Of course this means it’s time to try out the set of 1ManArmy masks I bought for this project.

They come with excellent instructions, and there are plenty of how-to videos out there, so I won’t go into detail on the process, other than to show the fun sequence. I used Tamiya acrylics; color mixes stolen from this Britmodeller thread.

Using Tamya acrylics the following are good mixes:-
Dull Roundel Red - Mix of 75% flat Red (XF-7 ), 25% NATO Brown (XF-68)
Blue - Mix of 95% flat Blue (XF-8), 5% flat Black (XF-1)
Yellow - Flat Yellow (XF-3) with a tiny amount of flat Red (XF-7)







Removing paint masks has to be one of the most satisfying parts of modeling… and removing these roundel masks takes that feeling to a whole 'nother level. :grin:

Wife will be out of town this weekend, so I should be able to get the rest of these markings on. I still have to to do the squadron codes, the fin flash, the serial number, and all the stencils. Also, I got the nose-art decals on with only slight difficulty, but I’ll wait to photograph those until after the flat coat blends them in. Right now they look really sticker-ish.

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Masking and spraying markings continues.

Research on the exact fin flash style never resulted in a clear answer. I needed to decide between the smaller, rectangular style and the taller, wrapped-stripe version. There is no photo of the tail of P2961, my subject a/c.

(If you want all the detail on this silly dilemma, click here)

The smaller rectangle was dictated by the RAF in November/December 1940, which we know is after my subject date of 30 August 1940 – yet it shows up in photos before and after that date. Most model kit profiles and schemes of this aircraft include the sky band and black port underwing, placing it in time after the Battle of Britain, and don’t help much.

The wonderful painting “Heavy Odds” by Wes Lowe, certainly Battle of Britain-summer placed, shows the very early, pre-war (?) full-fin fin-flash.

Then the famous “hat trick” by painting Michael Martchenko, which is set on the exact day I’m after, and it shows the smaller rectangular style.

A famous photo of 242 Squadron in flight (which I have not been able to date accurately but is likely summer 1940 since it does NOT show the late 1940 sky fuselage bands nor the port wing underside painted black) clearly shows fin flashes of both styles.


Vintage Wings of Canada, who have painted their restored Hurricane in McKnight’s colors, have a detailed page about how they arrived at their decisions for all the paint details, and it’s wonderfully sourced. They chose the taller fin flash based on a photo of a Hurricane in France, Gloster-made, only two serial numbers away from McKnight’s P2961, and likely in its factory paint scheme. This is from that site:

But I personally think they’re wrong about this particular choice, since they’re using the late 1940 scheme with the sky band and black underwing. The smaller fin flash was implemented at the same time, and to me it’s unlikely that if they repainted so much else on the aircraft, that they wouldn’t have also updated the fin flash to match the RAF directive. In short, factory-applied markings aren’t useful for modeling an a/c after two years of combat and multiple official markings updates.

However, if P2961 came from the factory with the tall-stripe type fin flash, it seems very unlikely to me that it would have later had the older full-fin flash type added (as in the painting above). Not impossible, but unlikely.

In the end, after several circular hours, I decided to just pick the one I liked the best. If I’m later proven wrong by someone with a better source than I have been able to find, I’ll happily own the error.

The 1ManArmy masks continue to work flawlessly. I do not operate flawlessly: I accidentally ordered the 36" tall code letters, instead of the 30" tall set. The code letters height is another rabbit-hole saga perhaps even deeper than that of the fin flash. I’m happy with 30 inches, and at this point I don’t want to talk about it. :rofl:

So the masks needed some mods to fit properly; likewise the “A” on McKight’s plane was clearly a non-standard style (and so are many of the other letters on the 242 Squadron Hurris). So again, some creativity is not just allowed, but required.



Lastly, the stencils. More creative freedom here! I cross-referenced my cross-references using period photos and decal/instruction sheets from many different kits. There was little agreement.

In the end just used the stencils that are likely on most/all Hurricane Mk.Is, look cool, and were included in the 1ManArmy set – which didn’t include a placement guide, and in fact included at least one anachronism: a stencil stipulating “AVGAS 100LL,” which wasn’t introduced until the 1970s!



Notable in the above three photos is how unflattering a true macro photo can be. I had no idea I’d got such a sandpaper-rough surface on the wing-root area until I looked at the pics!

Meanwhile, I’m refining the chipping with silver pencils and touch-up paint. The decals are placed and drying. Soon comes an overall flat coat in preparation for oil paints. Also yet to do is final finishing of the canopy, propellor, and landing gear.

Still having fun! I think!

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Tom, this is looking really good! :+1:

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Sol, thanks so much! This has been a really fun build overall, with only a few minor disasters, and a handful of those moments where you try a new technique and it comes out better than expected.

A good example is the top cowling. I had that top seam looking good, so I re-scribed and re-riveted to an acceptable if not great level. Then with the final primer coat, the seam ghosted back into view, and needed another round of filler and sanding. After I painted the camo colors on, I realized that I’d forgotten to refresh the rivets, and due to the very deep molded HobbyBoss rivets, it looked badly like a filled seam under paint.

I himmed and hawed about whether I should leave it or just dive in and re-rivet, even if that meant repainting that area. But to my shock, a few light passes with the properly-sized wheel from the AK 0.75mm riveter seems to have worked. The only damage done was a little paint lift from the ultra-sticky Dymo tape. I can live with that!

By the way: these little AK rivet wheels are a big upgrade from the rather flimsy GSW plastic riveter I’ve been using. They fit into a hobby knife handle, and come in a bunch of sizes. Can’t argue with the price either.