I’ve started working on an Accurate Miniatures 1/48 scale SBD-2 Dauntless. The instrument Panel is made of clear plastic, with a decal that says it is supposed to go on the BACK of the IP.
I’m not sure as to the best way to tackle this problem - this is the first time I’ve had an IP set up like this. The instructions say to paint the IP first, then put the decal on the back, then paint the raised portions on the front silver. . ?
How does one go about painting the IP without getting paint on the instrument faces, etc? It’s probably a very simple explanation, but so far it’s confusing me. Any help or suggestions would be greatly appreciated!
John, Couldnt you paint the front of the IP before you put the decal on the back ? I like the ole’ flat white, then flat black, and sand off the black to reveal the white. But then again, I havent seen that IP panel of yours.
I’m having similar dramas with the Eduard PE cockpit set for the Revell 1/32 F4 Phantom. The sequence is, kit part, with clear film on top (dials, gauges) then the PE IP. But how do you sandwich the clear film in between ? Glue it to the PE part ?
Hi John.My approach was to mask the guage openings on the clear IP with a drop of white glue. After the glue sets, spray the front of the IP black, being careful to not get paint on the back of the IP. When the paint is cured, soak the IP in warm water & after a few minutes the white glue can be easily removed, leaving the gauge openings clear. Apply the decal to the back of the IP, with the graphic side down. Line it up so the gauge faces show up in the clear openings.
The way I did my SBD was to paint the IP flat black and put the decal on top with a good dose of Micro-solv. Looked pretty good if I do say so myself. If not, then Ricks suggestion sounds about the best way. Heres a pic of my Val IP doing it my way.!(http://i278.photobucket.com/albums/kk103/animechick18/AICHI TYPE 99 VAL/DSC01032.jpg)
Hey, I think troublemaker has a good idea there. I like how the instruments are right there. Unless I’m mistaken, the clear panel is kinda thick and really makes the instrument face look deep behind very thick glass. TM66’s photo looks pretty darn convincing. Rick
If the panel already has the instrument relief features molded in, my approach is to carefully cut the decal from the sheet, then place it in a plastic bag with the panel decals from the other kits that have that…
I then paint the panel flat white, color it black with a Sharpie and then give it a few swipes with super-fine sanding film…
Another approach I’ve used is to cut a front & rear panel from sheet styrene, drill out the instrument faces, then sandwich the decal between them…
Hans, Ive tried it your way but I guess I dont have what it takes. Id love to see one of your IPs done that way, must look awesome. The way I feel about it is, once the fuse halves go together most IPs kinda get buried in there and some are tough to see and by using the decals and putting them down on the surface it stands out a little more..little easier to see...just my opinion. Im 43 and I swear I nead a microscope to read the paper sometimes…lol.!
Since I returned to the hobby a couple years ago and my eyes ain’t what they used to be, I don’t place as much importance on panels that get buried anymore… They usually just get painted black and drybrushed with white… I don’t have any pics of the sandwiched panels since I haven’t done one in years, but here’s a Spit panel done with the white paint/Sharpie method…
I just got back from the hospital yesterday - what a nice surprise to find these good suggestions waiting for me. I really like Trouble makers and Han’s ideas. Since Trouble’s idea seems a little quicker, I think I’ll give that a try frist and see how it works out. Thanks again!
Trouble’s is good, but not exactly quicker… Unless you count drying time for the white paint ( I use the True Color Flat White from Wal-Mart for about everything that I paint flat white. I wait about 10-15 minutes before using the Sharpie on it (The regular point, not the “Fine” or “Super Fine” ones. They leave the pen equivalent of “brush marks” on the white.) However, if you don’t like the coverage, just use a Q-tip the moistened with alcohol to remove the ink (Shapries are alcohol-soluable, so don’t use enamel thinners on it)… Then just swipe it with a super-fine sanding film, VERY gently… OR: You could use a small pointed brush (2 or 3-Zero) that’s SLIGHTLY moistened with alcohol to really get precision removal of the ink. Then shoot it with clear flat. Oh yeah… I forgot to mention that ou can put a straight-pin ot needle in a pin vise and scratch tick-marks into the gauge-faces.
Here’s the 1/48th Monogram Do-335 panel I did about a year ago:
When I did mine a few moons ago, I started by drybrushing white, that picks out the detail on the inst. faces, I then brush painted the rest of the IP flat black being careful not to get any black on the inst face. Then I painted the back of the IP in an almost black, dark grey. You could just hand paint the IP leaving out the inst. faces and use the decal on the back.
