Has anyone tried this or had any experience with it? They have an “Orange Line,” listed as lacquer based. I’m wondering if this is a true lacquer, that could be thinned and cleaned up with regular hardware-store lacquer–or if it’s something else.
With Model Master gone and Colorcoats hard to get, I’m looking for something comparable.
I did a search on the Forums, and there was a discussion concerning Hataka about five/six years ago, but nothing that answered my questions. They have a line of acrylics, but I’m not at this point prepared to make that transition.
Eaglecash: I noticed that Hataka has its own thinner, but I can’t tell if its truly lacquer compatible. The US distributer doesn’t seem to carry the thinner.
keavdog: Was it the Orange Line you used? If so, what did you use to thin it?
Pawel: I haven’t used Gunze Sangyo C-Series. Is that one of the acrylic laquers?
The Hataka website says that their paint adheres well to unpainted plastic, but it’s best to use a primer. I normally don’t prime, since paint thinned with lacquer thinner is “hot” enough to adhere to the plastic, and not priming eliminates an additional coat that might obscure details.
I know that you said you didn’t want to mess with acrylics, but you should check out MRP (Mr. Paint) paints. Sprue Brothers sells those as well. Their airbrush paint line requires no thinner, shoots beautifully, and cures in less than an hour. Its an acrylic lacquer, and its tough as nails…more durable than any other model paint I have tried, hands down. They have FS color paints, as well as paints for all kinds of other countries’ military equipment and aircraft.
Edit: I just remembered I had bought a bottle of Hataka Orange Line several months ago, intending to use it for the digital camo on the Su-25M1 I’m building. Just took it out to try thinning it and I can see a huge issue for me…not sure if it would be an issue for you. The major issue I see right off the bat is its in one of those stupid dropper bottles with a really small neck…no getting my Badger paint stirrer in there to properly mix the paint, and quite frankly, shaking it doesn’t cut it. Might be a factor to consider in your decision.
Thanks, Eaglecash. I hadn’t found them at Sprue Brothers. I’ll check that out. I noticed that they came in dropper bottles, which made me think they might be some kind of acrylic lacquer.
Does Mr Paint require primer before application? Again, I’m leery of adding another layer that might obscure detail. But–maybe I just ought to give it a try!
Not sure how well it does without primer because I haven’t tried it that way. As far as primer goes, I like to use decanted Tamiya Surface Primer that I thin with MEK and airbrush it. I don’t lose any detail that way because it goes on nice and thin, and the MEK has an even better etching effect on the plastic than lacquer thinner.
I’ve only used their Red line acrylics, but with an order of paints, they had also sent along their company pamphlet. For the Orange line, directions suggest primer, “… however the paint adheres very strongly also to not primed surfaces.”
Fully dry can take up to 24 hrs, and they do not mix with any water-based products.
I used their Glossy Sea Blue on a Corsair this winter. Thinned well at a 1:1 ratio with Gunze levelling thinner. A higher thinner to paint ratio turned into runny, translucent coats. Took some time to build up the color, so I put down a black primer first. It did not react well with topcoat of Testors rattle can Glosscote, it orange peeled badly, and I got little pink rings in the paint, I’d airbrush a different brand clear coat over it next time.
Eaglecash867: Is the Tamiya surface primer an acrylic? I’ve seen MEK in the hardware store.
Jack: That sounds promising. I wouldn’t be pleased if the paint pulled up after masking. When it was available, I used Dio-sol to thin all my paint, then switched to lacquer thinner when Floquil was discontinued.
mississippivol: That must have been a mess! There must be some compatibility problems. Usually for glossing and flattening these days, I’m using Humbrol. I used to use Floquil all the time. If the Hataka paint reacted that way to Glosscote, it could very well react badly with Humbrol.
Thanks for all your replies. In the end, I just might have to buy some and experiment with it on some scrap.
Not sure what it is exactly, but its definitely not an acrylic…pretty strong stuff. If you start working with MEK, just make sure to get a box of good latex gloves. Diamond Grip gloves are the best I have used. Not too much more expensive than other brands, but you can keep slipping them off and re-using them, which you can’t really do with the other brands (other brands start to fall apart really quickly). You don’t want to get the stuff on your skin, and use it with lots of ventilation…the fumes are really nasty. Don’t brush paint anything on the model with the primer/MEK mixture. If it goes on thick and wet, it will melt the plastic really quickly. That’s what makes it such a great thinner for the Tamiya primer though. As long as you airbrush it, instead of melting the plastic, it etches it and gives you a really strong bond.
I got several bottles of Hataka from Sprue Brothers and they spray and cover very well. I believe the Tamiya primers are lacquer based and have EXCELLENT adhesion qualities.
I used the orange line Voodoo gray - closest thing to boeing gray for airliner wings, but appologize as I don’t recall if I primered the model or what I thinned it with. It would have been lacquer thinner or Mr Color leveling thinner. I should start taking notes on builds…
Thanks pj and keavdog. I appreciate your insights.
I used to use Dio-Sol till Floquil bit the dust; then switched to lacquer thinner for everything. I’ve used it without any problems with Model Master, Humbrol, Colorcoats and Testors square bottles.
I was hoping I’d be able to do the same thing with Hataka.