I’m not exactly sure model paints but I’m painter in ghe construction trades one thing we never do is cut any laquer with a none laquer based product.
The resnon i was going to jump in in here is about model master paints.
this product wich is the acry line calls for 25% white to be added for 1/48 scale effect. I’m out and so is my hobby shop.
So I picked up white primer instead off the white gloss. Its the same product line.
So I’m thinking its compatible. Anybody have any advice on this?
I got in at the wrong time I think… what were you trying to do?
Model master paints states that you should use there white paint to mix in with whatever color you are using to softened it to 1/48 scale color. But all I can get is there white primer.
Just looking for advice From the g If its safe to mix the primer with the paint.
Gotcha , as long as its a like formula IE Model Master Tamiya, (very similar formulations)that will blend, some that wont are like the polly-s and some others, What I do to pre test them is to try to cut with either rubbing alcohol or lacquer thinner, if they thin without gumming or clumping, you should be able to blend.
also, I like to lighten with a pale grey, it makes for a nice weathered look, kind of takes the edge off the blend. Depending on the desired outcome, grey makes a good substitute for the brighter white look. Just a few thoughts, Hope that helped.
Take care
Doug
Thanks for the info on Turpenoid Joe and Clemens.
Still unclear on one thing though. Are you saying that oils mixed with Turpenoid are ok over lacquer, but oils mixed with regular mineral spirits are not? I’m asking because I picked up a jar of Alclad Klear Kote (not the aqua I got the other day) to try sometime, and I have zero experience laying anything over the top of lacquer, except a lacquer dull coat.
TIA
Joe, I had seen your informative post on washes above, which sort of prompted me to ask the my question about mixing the oils over in the technique section. I reckon I could have posted it here.
Oh no Greg, Posting that over in techniques is an excellent place to ask. Look Greg, I am no expert nor chemist when it comes to gloss cotes and washes. I simply know what I have learned here and from own experiences, both good and bad. I have a Tamiya P-47D that I was building for the Big Beautiful Jugs GB that I painted with Alclad paints and gloss coted with Alclad Klear Kote. I used Artist’s oils and turpenoid as a wash with excellent results right up until I made a fateful decision. I was nearly done except for a small section on the left side of the fuselage. Then, I received my Mig Wash in the mail and opted to give it a try on the remaining section. BIG mistake as it ate through the gloss cote and paint. For some reason I was unable to repaint with Alclad. It just came out off colored. So, it sits awaitng a complete paint strip. I acted on advice given me by the owner of the LHS I go to. He told me that Aclad Klear Kote was almost impossible to damage. I should have paid attention to the “almost” part. It was a learning experience though. So, I guess my point is to test on an old model or piece of plastic first to confirm all will go well.
Here is a neat tutorial on oil washes with Turpenoid and artist’s oils I found last night that may help out with some of the questions you have Greg.
agapemodels.com/…/modeling-techniques-a-simple-oil-wash-for-panel-lines
Yep. Probably shouldn’t use an enamel, or oil-turpenoid mixed wash over another enamel or mineral spirit gloss, such as Alcad’s clear Kote. If I know I will be doing an oil wash I make sure I use an Acrylic clear coat before hand. Sorry to hear about the Jug Rix. Hope you get the urge to fix her up again.
Ok here’s the last picture of my FW190A-3 snap together. which isn’t for this build but I thought you might like to see it before it goes under glass at my LHS.
Here’s the box top, the manager I work with at the hobby store wanted me to build it OOB to show what you can do with a snap together model, so I had to use the supplied decals only! But I did cheat just a little I had to add the swastika’s
John
here’s the progress on the real plane for this build, which is almost done. just the wing canon’s, canopy, wheels and some weathering I think.
John
Hey guys. Just finished up the nose module minus guns this morning!! The guns should make it today hopefully and I can finish it up this weekend. The receivers are painted and weathered and waiting on those barrels. I would have had these posted about two hous earlier but my computer aint playing fair! [:@] Here’s a couple of shots:
Nice job John. Really like the paint on both of 'em!!! Your mottle effect looks awesome as well, Joe
Joe,
That engine and spinner are fantastic, I think I’ll take my 190 and just go back to bed.[t$t]
John
Thanks John. Looks like all of your worries about your mottle skills were unfounded. Good job to you as well!
Boy did I learn something new last night,
clear Plastic and CA accelerator don’t mix. i was gluing a nylon antenna wire to the top of the canopy on my FW190 and the super glue was not setting fast enough so I thought I would use some accelerator on it, big mistake the accelerator fogged the clear plastic!
I did manage to buff it clear again with some Novus #3 polish and a Q-tip
And yes I was using a CA that would not fog clear plastic, I’ve used many times on canopies. it was Bob Smith’s super Gold. Hope this helps anyone avoid the accelerator fogging mess. Sorry I didn’t get any pictures of the disaster.
John
John, both of those 190’s look great! Hard to believe one is a snap kit!!
Joe, that engine module is da bomb!
I pulled out the next 190 for this build the Dragon A-7 I’m going to do the snake scheme on. I can’t wait to work on the mottling again when I get to that point. I think when I get a little extra time I will do a little practice with my AB on making sure my paint for mottling is mixed up real good so I get that mottling splat with no clumps of paint in it, looking for that smooth transition/fuzziness.
John
Thanks Eric,
The snap together was actually really fun to see what I could do with it. If you’ve ever had one of these Pegasus snap together models they are made of a very slippery plastic that at first did not want to melt when liquid cement was applied! funny how that is? it took some time and effort to get the plastic to bond with itself. It felt like it had a layer of silicon on it even after i washed it.
John
Joe, Great work. That Jumo is a real gem. Are you leaving any panels hanging open on the Dora or just leaving them completely off?
John, nice work on both kits. I like the blue/white/blue jg300 band. Hope you got the canopy looking shiny again. I try to never use accelerator near clear parts, just in case.
**Jester:**Thanks Eric! The end for that section is finally in sight. I think I started on this thing about a month ago!
Nathan T: Thanks Nathan! I’m going to plan on installing the panels in the open position (at least that’s the plan anyway!).