I can’t help it but think that the nose is slightly off to the left as well…
Ok, now I got it. It’s the old Tri-master kit I was thinking about with the resin. The correct story on the Dragon C kit is: Its the old Tri-master molds but instead of the resin pieces Dragon kitted those in plastic. I think you’ll be able to handle the issues though, Clemens.
Gotcha Nathan, thanks. A lot of paint flow (ie, pull that needle all the way back) is what I was trying to say, and what I’ve been experiementing with. I tend to say things backwards, but it is comforting to know I am on the right track. Now to get the feel of the “right” amount before flooding it!
Thanks for posting pics of your spinner weathering. Looks fantastic and something for me to shoot for.
Clemens, ta for your nice comments about my spinner so far. 
It really helps my building to see pics of things that go astray, and little boo-boo’s as you posted. Always good to know these kits don’t always fall together by themselves, even for you experienced folk! The fits do look very good overall.
Experienced? Me? Nah, not at all… I only know a few things about airbrushing and similar stuff. I don’t have a lot building experience. I just practiced a lot with my AB using a plastic sheet as my surface to work with. Trying all the techniques on an actual model is a bit different though…
I just tried to get that nose lined up with the fuselage, but it is always a bit off to the left. Any ideas on how to get that damn thing in line? My Eyeballs Mk.1 are not that great for measuring if something is straight or not…
I applied the dull coat this morning and painted the prop. Still have to do some weathering to the prop hubs that show some through the spinner base so this is a “test fit”.
Looking good, Joe!
Great looking spinner and cowl Mustang. [Y]
Clemen’s
Well I went home last night and looked at my Dragon Ta152C-0 kit and your right you do have cut off the nose and attach a new one. I’m very apprehensive [:^)]as to how to do that as the instructions don’t really show where to cut. Is it along the panel line on the exterior that goes up from just behind the leading edge of the wing root?
John
Yep, that’s where you have to cut it. But it is really hard to get that damn nose lined up with the fuselage. I’m still struggling with it…
It’s really ambiguous when you get up to the top where the machine gun cover is, do you cut around the front of the hatch?
You have to cut around the gun cover. I think it’s a good idea to cut the 3 nose pieces from the sprues and tape them together, so you know how the nose looks like. That’s what I did at least…
Do you have any ideas on how to determine if the nose section is straight?
I would tape each half to a flat surface and then glue each nose piece to it’s respective half, that’s assuming the fuselage is split right down the middle with no steps or anything so it will lay flat.
Clemens: Sounds like you and John have your work cut out for you. Hate the fit issues. Sounds like between the two of you that you both are working through it. Thanks for the comments on the spinner/ nose section. They go on the engine assy some time this week. Now if I could just get those gun barrels in the mail…
plastickjunkie: Thanks for the comments bud!
Jumpin’ Johosaphat! You folks have been rather lively here lately. Good to see. Thusly. I best be to catchin’ up.
plasticjunkie - A hardy welcome to you. Really glad to have you join us here. Certainly oodles of fun and fantastic modeling to be had here.
Joe and Greg - Fine work on those spirals gentlemen. Although I have only applied one so far I can honestly say that I will stick with decals rather than attempting to paint one.
Concerning gloss cotes and washes. Given my recent experience with the odd brand acrylic gloss cote out of a rattle can I will be returning to a formula that works terrific for me. I use Tamiya Gloss Cote TS-13 acrylic lacquer out of a spray can. Simply reliable. Provides a beautiful cote over most any paint. I then apply a wash of artist oils and Turpenoid. The Turpenoid does not react to the lacquer. I prefer oil washes myself as they flow nicely and they are slow drying allowing more time to wipe off and adjust. Although this can be a negative in that it often takes a week to fully cure. Unfortunately, Tamiya has discontinued the TS-13 gloss cote [:@]. Thus, I will be seeking an alternative. Possibly Alclad Gloss Cote (lacquer).
I have made a bit of progress in that I managed to get the RLM 76 sprayed on the repair area and things are looking good so far. (crossing fingers here). The wife arrives tomorrow for a visit home (Hell Yeah!) and will unlikely get any bench time next week. But after that I will be through with outside obligations that have been detrimental to any progress for the past month.
I see that my post count has returned to normal.
John: I’m afraid that won’t work… I already glued the fuse halves together… I guess I’ll just have to eyeball it and hope for the best… I think it is straight enough if it looks straight…
Joe: My post count seems to be fixed as well. Tamiya discontinued TS-13 in the states? That’s wierd. We still have access to it in Austria and it is also on the German Tamiya website…
Joe (Mustang), that cowl assy looks great! I really like the way the spinner spiral ‘breaks’ at the prop/hub cutout. That must have been quite a challenge! I note that this is how Eduard masks look, making me wonder about the prototypical accuracy of the Hasegawa decal I used. I think the squared off end looks odd.
Clemens and John, hope you guys get your nose sections figured out, and that you keep us apprised along the way.
Joe (Rix), thanks for commenting on my spinner.
You had asked about the drying time of the Vallejo clear varnish, which I’d said is fast. Just passing on to you that the Alclad Aqua Kleer (acryl) seems to dry even faster. Amazingly fast, IMO. But it seems you will go the way of lacquer anyway.
What exactly is Turpenoid? I’ve heard it tossed about, assume it is not just turpentine? Interesting that it does not react adversely with lacquers.
I think turpenoid is a turpentine replacement with the same or very similar characteristics? I’m not too sure on that one though…
I think Turpenoid is a more non-odor, eviro-friendly version of Turpentine, which is mineral spirits, and not as strong as a lacquer so it shouldnt’ react when applied on top.
You are indeed correct there Nathan.
Ah… Ah… a laser level?