Hey, even the Spitfire has quite a bit of heft compared to the 190. Those damn 190s were just an engine with guns, man. The Spits had a much greater wing surface area. Probably explains how a Spit would kick the 190’s butt in a turning fight.
Here’s a side by side pic of my 1/32 scale Fw190A-5 and Spitfire Mk IIb.
That’s good cuz the only German I know I learned from Hogan’s Hero’s. [:$]
John
Good morning folks! Managed to get up this morning and shoot some mottle pattern on those unfinished “blister panels” as well as the nose of the bird and install the nose piece. The one thing I DIDN’T account for was the warped piece at the L/H lower part of the nose. Simply put , I’m going to have to live with that one because I’ll do more damage to the plane than repairable if I try to fix that now. This build is going to go down in my model building history as one of the more difficult ones. Moving forward now. Here is the latest with the nose piece installed.
Looking nice Joe!
May I ask you guys on how to do that mottle-pattern? (This is my 1st attempt at a German aircraft…)
That looks great! puts mine to shame. I agree with Clemens how did you do your mottling? love the engine open panels, that’s something I can’t do.
John
I crank up my air pressure to about 30 psi and adjust the needle (I have a medium needle) to where paint just barely comes out. Thin the paint to milk consistency and start spraying and keep the brush MOVING. Don’t stand still or you’ll end up with a bunch of dots. Move close to get it started and back off to fade the mottle. I use Vallejo acrylics so they go on really easy.
Thanks John. Don’t kid yourself about the open panels. You can do that stuff. Like I was saying about the engine. Just build each piece as its own model. This includes each cowling and so on. Just takes a little patience. It all comes together in the end.
Thanks for sharing your technique, Joe!
We measure air pressure in “Bar” here in Austria, but luckily my compressor has it’s pressure indicator in Bar and psi! I use a 0.4mm needle and I think that is “medium size”. Adjusting the needle should be easy for me, as my AB has a screw at the rear which can be used to limit how far the needle can be pulled back.
So how much different is your 190 compared to the profipack version? I have the weekend edition of the A-8 I believe, and when I looked at the engine assembly I went back to the Dragon cuz I think I need more practice.
John
I think it has an Iron Cross and 2 kits + 2 big-ed sets in the box.
And some special decal options and parts from an actual 190…
Actually its got a piece of the plane that I’m building. It was shot down in the Battle over the Ore mountains and became a lawn dart. The pilot bailed out and survived but the plane buried itself. It was dug up ( or at least parts of it were) and the pieces were divied up and some of them wound up in the Royal Class kits. That’ll go on display right there with the plane.
Joe, another thanks for sharing your mottling technique. That looks sweet. Sorry about the warped part.
Curious, I’ve read that spraying up close + high pressure = disaster. Yet can visualize how very low paint flow and keeping the brush moving would counter that.
Which Vallejo? Model Air I presume? What do you thin it with? (I have some Model Air on the way, never tried it, clueless re thinning it),
And finally, does your airbrush have a preset handle? Reason I ask, my relatively new Iwata does not. My retired plastic Model Master airbrush did, and I miss it. On the flip side, have read comments stating that with acrylics, the preset handles don’t work because of the drying acrylic constantly fouling the tip. I’ve been on the fence about getting a second airbrush for a couple months now, so appreciate any comments on subject. (from anyone, of course). Clemens, you mentioned your airbrush has a preset handle. Usage comments?
It depends on the consistency of the paint. Very thin paint causes a mess, but if you spray thick paint, it should work fine.
I suppose Joe uses the Air series of paints. They are great for both brush-painting and spraying. You can either thin them with Valeejo’s thinner or with water (thinner works a tad better)
I use a double-action AB by Harder&Steenbeck. It has no preset handle, but something which is even better. There is a screw in the rear end of it. When you tighten it, the way the needle can move back is limited to the point where it hits the screw. That means that I can use it like any other AB, but limit the amount of paint that can flow through the AB. Here’s a link to the AB I use, called “Evolution Silverline”. Keep in mind cthat only the silverline has that screw.
Here’s another link to a video regarding the Evolution Silverline.
I have the 2 in 1 set, which means I have 2 different needle sets (needle, nozzle and nozzle-cap). The great thing about all Evolution ABs is that they are really versatile: You can swap the needles (and their nozzles) within seconds without using anything but your fingers.
You can thin the paint down fairly thin and still get it applied at a high pressure as long as the needle is adjusted down to where paint barely gets through. This will accomplish a tinted like effect of the paint and will create the mottle you are after and it won’t make a mess unless you open the needle up alot more. Practice on white paper until you get the desired effect. Too thick of a mixture will leave you with globs of paint which you don’t want for a mottle (or anything else really) I have 2 Badger 200 airbrushes and yeah the acrylic paint tends to dry at the tip but a constant SMALL adjustment to the needle is all thats required to re-gain paint flow. To blend it in with the solid camo pattern just keep the air brush still at the color border for a little longer and will give you a color blend/ soft edge.
Clemens and Joe, thanks very much for the helpful feedback. The more I think I’m getting airbrushing figuring out, the more I think I’m not.
Clemens, ironically I have had the Harder and Steenbeck Evolution Silverline bookmarked as “I want one” for a couple of months. I think for me, the adjustable stop would be good for me, and I like the concept of the interchangable needles/tips. Most interesting to learn that you own one and like it. Might be about time to bite the bullet.
If you decide on buying one, let me know by sending me a PM. I’ll make a tutorial on how to clean/disassemble it for you!
Hey Greg… Like Joe had said to get a fine mottle I set the pressure I usually use (12-20psi) to about 30-35 psi, and at times set the travel stop(needle) to where you can just barely see paint when trigger is depressed,on the towel I keep in hand, Now most of the time(depending on the paint being used) I will either thin my acrylics with straight rubbing alcohol, or lacquer thinner. Usually I leave the travel stop so I can determine the ammount of spray, and when mottleing work slowly (I mean with purpouse) and excersise pantience. Some patterns require you to be up close (appx 1/4 in) and you must keep moving! Too slow and you will have a splotchy mess. Some mottle needs to be faint and some bolder.
My first AB was a Badger 350 I think, little black handle and adjustable cone on needle…3 Diff sizes, and I still have it, and use it on occasion, but now have fallen in love with the gravity fed double actions, so easy to maintain and use! I bought one of the Master Pros from TCP Global, and wouldnt trade it for anything. Any way… Practice Practice Practice!!! Take care!
Doug.
Oh, Joe… That is going to be one Bad Azz 190! Just beautiful!!!