Unlike most DML kits, the instructions for this particular kit do not begin in the usual place with the road wheels. Step 1 deals with a bunch of internal detail consisting of the transmission, the fuel tank, and other mechanical elements but all of them get hidden away by the floor panel so I skipped it and consigned the parts to the spares bin. The step does include a small sub-assembly of the shock absorbers for the final suspension arm and calls for their install in Step 1 but it’s easily moved to Step 2 without any issue.
Steps 2-4 deal with the lower hull suspension and the running gear elements and that’s where the focus of this round of effort went. Based on past build experience of DML 251 kits, I know it’s critical to get the suspension arms set at the correct height. To that end, I skipped around in the three steps and didn’t follow the exact order as a result. First up was the removal of the road wheels and assembly of the mid wheel pairs while leaving the inner/outer pairs unassembled. The drive sprockets were assembled along with the front steering wheels. All the wheels received some light sanding to remove mold seams and the front steering wheels were sanded a bit heavier to simulate some road wear.
Next I installed the sprocket mounts, idler mounts, and all of the suspension arms and bump stops. The suspension arms have a little bit of wiggle to them so it’s very important that they get lined up properly both vertically and horizontally so that the road wheels will sit level. Eye ball estimates are fine at this point so long as you have enough time to continue through the full step 3 installation of the front suspension as it will help ensure a level stance for the hull as well.
Speaking of which, the front wheel suspension assembly in Step 3 has an added bonus to it if you’re careful with the glue and don’t glue all the parts. The bonus is that the front wheels will remain steerable as well as flexible on the spring mounts laterally which helps in keeping the hull stance level as well. The trick is to not glue parts C30 and C35 (the wheel mount hubs) but instead trap them between parts C20 and C25. The second trick requires not gluing the rocker arm, C15, to C30/C35 either but use its natural snap fit to keep it in place and movable. The third and final trick is to not glue C10 to the C20/C25 assembly but instead use its join with C11 to trap the assembly and remain able to “rock” laterally.
Final trick (none of which the instructions indicate is possible by the way!) is to install the suspension into the lower hull and not apply any glue to the Y-yoke C8 at its base where it slips under the armored cover and only apply glue at the front where it attaches to the C20/C25 assembly. The end result is a fully workable and steerable front suspension.
Of course the main goal of this exercise is to end up with a suspension and running gear that sits level and does what is needed when the tracks are installed. I used poster blue tack putty to test fit the wheels and it’s normal for the rear hull to have a slight angle to it as the tracks will “lift” it up and bring it level with the front when they are installed.
Next up will begin work on the compartment details. This one’s off and rolling!
Nice ! I was debating doing either the Sdkfz 251/21 Drilling or the Nashorn mid - Have great dio concepts for both but the 'Horn won ! I’ll be following this build closely as I do all of your builds .
Ahhhh…nothing like breaking the fresh shrink wrap and setting up for a new build…It reminds me of putting on a nice fresh starched uniform…The sense of a great new beginning!
4x4, yep and DML has provided kits of almost all the major variants…but many of them are harder to find now. HTs can take on a life of their own if you let them! [:D]
Mike, always the favorite part of the build…opening up the box! Always comes right after cleaning up the bench from the last project and is the sign of fresh adventures to come. [B]
Kenny can’t argue with you there…like many hybrid designs the Germans employed this one overloaded the chassis but the need for SP AT capability was stronger! Glad to have you along for the ride. [B]
Your typical good start. Regarding the way you put in the front suspension. You mention that it will be “steerable” but will it also drop down for when you add the tracks? When I did my 251 a ways back I was told to get the road wheels on and set it on lengths of track. If your trick works I will tuck this one away for the future. You never know when you’re just gonna have to build a 251[whstl]
Manny I’m leaning towards a hard-edged three tone scheme but haven’t committed to it just yet…will decide when I get closer to the paint stages.
Thanks Guney!
Carl I’m a one-build-at-a-time kind of guy so as soon as one project finishes the next one takes its place. [;)]
Marc
The answer to your question is the reverse actually. Right now the lower end of the hull sits lower (at an angle) from the front wheels so when the tracks are added, the rear hull will lift and sit level with the front steering wheels so that they don’t “float”. The approach of building some tracks and using that to level set the tracked road wheels does the same thing. there’s added “height” from the track pads that will bring everything level when the time comes. The key is that the front wheel suspension becomes the pivot point around which the hull and everything else balances against, so as long as that remains true, the front road wheels won’t get lifted off the ground and “float”. I tested it with a pair of track links on both sides as an extra precaution to be sure the suspension arms sat in the correct position. HTH!
