Hey gang, it took a while to get this one finished, (it’s fishin’ season!), I couldn’t believe the amount of minutia that goes into these 251’s! It’s all OOB except for the Fruil tracks, finish is Tamiya acrylics, I think the best thing about this kit was all the extra parts and goodies that I can stash in the spares box!
Regards, Steve
Hey Steve, another killer build for you. Camo as always looks great. Can’t blame you for going with the Fruils, I couldn’t imagine tinkering with the indy pads from the Dragon kit. It’s nice to see something a little different too.
[:)]
great build crockett! The dust effect is great, as are the ammo belts.
I have my 3 in 1 C and looking at the tracks is very intimidating. Im not really looking foreward to them.
Great job!
Thank you Eric, John, Anthony…
Speaking of tracks…I’m not sure the Fruils are the “easiest” way to go on these 251’s. I had three options, the “magic”, the molded,and the metal. Each link of the Fruil’s had to be drilled, twice, (both end links). At 58 links per side, this took a while. I actually started to assemble the magic tracks to avoid palsy from the pin vise, but the “magic” wore off after about ten links and I went back to the Fruils.
That is one fine looking Hannomag Steve! This is the first completed DML 3 in 1 kit I’ve seen completed, and you’ve certainly done it justice. I think what is so neat about the new DML kits, as is proven by yours, is that there really is no real need for after market kits to bring them up a higher standard, just good workmanship. It’s kind of funny your talking about Friul tracks, and how you’ve had to drill out both sides of the link pin holes on these particular style of tracks. My own mastery of putting those babies together is a direct result of having learned from your previous tips, and for the life of me couldn’t remember who to give the credit to, so, a belated thanks for teaching me well, and I’ve tryed to pass the knowledge and credit on. Don’t want to sound like I’m bragging but after doing about three sets of friuls with a hand vise, I’ve finally gotten the confidence to use my dremel! Carefully!! LOL. Once again beautiful job on your Hannomag. Semper Fi, Mike
Thanks Mike-
Maybe you can give me a tip! I really would like to know how you were able to chuck that itsy bitsy drill bit in your dremel tool? I used the small mandrel and it was still too big! Is there a smaller mandrel available or, is there some secret to it? Thanks for the comments…
Steve
fine job crocket… you put that together well. cammo is great, nice touch on the weathering and bravo on the tracks. thanks for sharing.
Hi Steve! Just wanted to drop you a note on what collet size I use on my Dremel for the tiny drill bits we use for the cleaning out of the track link holes on the friuls. I use a No.483 dremel collet (1/32 in.) Before I got the different collet sizes 1/8", 3/32", 1/16", and the 1/32" I was wrapping some tape around the drill bit and chucking into whatever size collet I might have, but with all the sizes of collets I now have that chore went away.
once again beautiful job on your Hannomag. Semper Fi, Mike
Looks great, I like the weathering. The fruil tracks look like they were worth the effort.
Great build, thanks for sharing.
[:D] looks great,nice work. love the cammo[:D]
Wow that looks great I like the detail in the AA mount, I take it that the ‘magic’ tracks are not all that magic then.
I’ve noticed that most people choose Fruil for AM tracks, any particular reason for that, I’m building some Modelkasten tracks atm and find they go together quite easily.
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Power … very nice job done
That is a really great build there Steve. Love that dirty look you produced.
Hasty
Thanks to all…Mike, thanks for the dremel collet info, I will definitely be taking advantage of that!
Lyle…Modelkasten tracks are great and probably offer the most accurate detail available. I’ve tried them, but for me, the “heavy” metal (Fruillissimo) is the way to go. They are too expensive really, but I consider them a luxury and since I’m an old timer, I treat myself regularly.
Just a general comment on the magic track…they suck. I haven’t tried them on the early tiger, but when the blocks are this small…(251’s), the magic just isn’t there. The plastic is to “slippery”, or, the parts are too 'slick". They don’t have any “bite” after assembly and they continuously fall apart during assembly, even CA is not helpful. I would go with the molded indies before the magic, on this kit anyway!
Steve
Awesome build! I love the weathering.
Steve-
Nice looking work! Those Friul’s really add a nice touch. From looking at pix’s I can see the decal carrier film. Am I seeing things or did they not settle down real well? Other than that a great model. I have one awaiting building. After seeing your work I may have to get to it sooner than later! Thanks for the photos!
Glenn
Steve, Very nice work on the Drilling. I finished mine about a week ago and posted pics in the Halftrack GB thread, but my camo job wasn’t nearly as good as yours. I used the Magic Tracks and didn’t find them to be too bad (it was my second go around with Dragon indies, so I guess that could be why).
Hey Pete
Yep, I saw your build while searching the halftrack group build thread, and you’ve done a knock out job with them, the magic tracks are useable, and I suppose someone like you with the skill to build them right can make them look good. I 've built so many indies thru the years I guess I’m just tired of them, I never enjoyed that part of the build.
It’s interesting to note that I am finally learning how to airbrush camo patterns. I used to go with extremely low pressure, but would still get a noticeable overspray. I was in the techniques forum where a member posted that he would use 20 to 25lbs when doing fine line camo! At first I was skeptical, but I found that if the paint is thinned properly (about the consistency of 2% milk), I could dial up the pressure and the Badger 360 performs flawlessly, with no overspray or spatter. This is the technique I use for everything now. High pressure is the way to go (with a double action brush, that is).
Glenn, thanks buddy, yes, the decals do look a bit shoddy, I think it is the lighting ( my photgraphy skills are very lacking) more than actually silvering. In natural light they actually look quite good.
Thanks again to everyone,
Steve
Interesting observation, for that is what I have concluded. With my compressor, I too have to use more than the recognized air pressure to spray camo. I find that I need to thin it even more than when I spray a base.