WWI urge

Modeling Subjects Aircraft
1

Hi all,
I’ve had this urge for quite a now, that is I’ve been wanting to try my hand at WWI bi-planes, but the rigging keeps putting me off. Does anyone have any good techniques or know of any good reference/websites that give good tips?

Regards Leo

2

i’m just getting into ww1 stuff at the moment try this link

http://www.ipmsstockholm.org/magazine/2004/08/stuff_eng_tech_rigging.htm

there are several methods and a few are explained here.

try doing a fokker dr.1 first as these have very little in the way of rigging.

paul

3

Rigging comes down to about 2 different techniques, both use either very fine invisible thread, fine wire, or stretched sprue:

  1. cut to the exact length required and then glued with super glue;

  2. “threaded” through very small holes drilled through the surfaces, pull the line tight, cut on the opposite side and the tiny hole filled with super glue then sanded smooth;

I use method #2, with the smallest fishing line I can find, about 2 pound test. I’m going to try method #1 on my current biplane build, an F4B-4 and use a very fine stretchy line made by Bobe’s Hobby Shop (they’re online).

I’m looking for other methods to see which one works best.

GS

4

Thanks for the link. I’ve done rigging successfully with stretched sprue, cut to a bit over-length, gluing it in place and hitting the entire model with a hair dryer on the warm setting. All the sags go away quick. I hadn’t thought of using a soldering iron… I don’t think I’d like something that hot between the wings! I smell a lot of rework, if I did that.

Stretched sprue has drawbacks:

It’s not real strong.

Getting consistent thickness takes a bit of practice.

But I’ve had some excellent results from it. It’s nice not to have to get it tight from the beginning.

Also, the D-VII is a good canidate to start too. I think it has only one “X” inbetween the struts in front of the cockpit and that’s it.

5

I have tried the stretched sprue and also tried monofilament. I still prefer the steel wire (0.004") much better. It’s cut exactly to length and doesn’t sag under it’s own weight. You don’t have to fiddle with the thickness and it looks the part with nothing more than a bit of weathering. My last three WWI builds used it to good effect.

6

I agree with capone Ima WIRE man. You use a Small Diameter Drill bit in a “Pin VIse” to drill “pilot” Holes as deep or shallow as you like. THey are really there only to achor the wire end.

Use a med CA and Accelerator to fix them in place. Use a pair of DIviders to measure the needed length. Clip Dry Fit / Trim / Dry Fit / Glue.

Your Local RC Hobby Store is likely to have a Display of K&B Piano Wire in 36" Lengths the samllest is 0.15 whihc works out well.

Mike

7

I’m a sprue guy… Tried everything else, keep coming back to it… Real plus is never having to paint it.