howdy guys, here i am trying to get a tad more involved rather than just posting finished builds, to be honest i am at best an average builder so i dont feel the need to bore anyone with my build pics. what i think most of us like to share is everyones painting and finishing techniques so i try and do just that though it wont be easy i tend to get carried away sometimes [:)]
anyway this kit is one of the worst ever, only god knows where they came up with the different sprues for this, they could have cast ten models with the amount of plastic used in this one but it is a spg and i had to have it so ,
the inside was a total mess so i opted for the fighting compartment cover which was scratched out of rolling papers and acrylic exterior craft paint and i kinda like the uniqueness it adds,
all the delicate parts were either broke or not worth useing so i used different tools from the spares box, the fender supports and tow cable brackets were courtesy of a recently finished diet cola can and the tow cable was picture hanging wire, funny the kit didnt have a tow cable.
i used some screen i scavanged from an old makeup purse of the wifes for the vents, maybe a tad over scale but looks better than it was,
and some other bits and bats here and there but nothing fancy just enough to try get it together and finished,
i will be adding some extra stowage at the end to give it a used look,
paint used was mm enamel olive green drakened with flat black the panels faded with straight olive green.
gol dang man-- average??-- no way!! – i love the resourcefulness on your choice of material for the top cover–[(-D]–the whole build is first class-- tread[:P]
Great job! I have a soft spot for the Eastern European model company’s… Different subjects, and a little more challenging. Your su-72 turned out nice.[tup]
Great job! I have a soft spot for the Eastern European model company’s… Different subjects, and a little more challenging. Your su-72 turned out nice.[tup]
next step here is a quick dry brushing of titanium white, nothing fancy in the end not much will remain but i find it adds a bit of variance in some areas.
now before the weathering starts its on with the decals, im not modeling any particular vehicle so just used generic numbers.
next stage will be a trip to the basement (where spraying takes place) for a good coating of dullcote of the testors variety then the weathering can begin in ernest, i always apply my weathering on a dull finish i do not use future except for decals and when i want to not have a totally flat finish,
here are my weathering weapons of choice
the thinner i use for my oils it works well for me and i havent had any bad reactions at all with any paint job acrylic or enamel, i get it at the hobby lobby and it is odorless
here are my oils and the premixed washes i use most
tommorow after the dullcote we start on the mud [}:)]
this is my first attempt at a step by step so please let me know if i can improve it or any questions please ask.
Good idea with the show-n-tell. [tup]
[?] Just wondering, [8)] but the title of this thread could be misleading…
which could cause a lot of people to miss out on this [^] great information.
The more pictures that add up on the post make for a long download time for
us poor dial-up guys.
Do you think you could/should start another thread (you know, P1-P2-P3)
with a more appropriately fitting title, or put a copy in the “How To” section…
[|)] …Just a thought.
Steve
thanks guys, getting a bit of bench time in this week got rained off work again so heres a quick update
making and applying the mud
1st wash
adding some minor damage/chipping with a toothpick and van dyke brown oil paint
a little dusting around lower hull and tracks and 2nd wash applied
steve this is all new to me so im kinda winging it heh if i do the pics in this way does it help with the dialup issue keeping pics to a minimum and is it informative enough?
Well, every time you add more pics to a post it takes a little longer to load. [:O]
You can see [V] how that would eventually go. [2c] That’s why I suggested a separate
posting for each update. Instead of stating “NEW” you might list a date so we
would know when something is “really” new.
[:)] An example for todays installment could be:
wip maquettes su-72 “10/19 update”
Tomorrow:
wip maquettes su-72 “10/20 update”
and so forth.
The advantage to that would be a new set of pictures to each post that would
not take so long to download. It would also save clicking on the same subject time
and time again just to see the same info since you don’t really know how new is NEW.
You really do excellent work. I love the weathering the most.
We all seem to be on a different level or learning curve here.
I can’t speak for everyone but [tup] I personally think your
demo is adequate.
I can’t help but wonder [%-)] if you have the same problem I have with the
thinner you use.The mineral spirits that I use for washes tends to destabilize
the molecular integrity [:(] of the plastic. In other words, the plastic becomes
very brittle and you have to be careful not to get it on parts that will be under
"any"stress. They become brittle and break off just like sugary candy. Imagine
installing tracks and the torsion arms just disintegrate [banghead].
The tank is complete and the wheels fall off! A real lot of fun.
What are you using to seal your builds with before applying the washes? If the washes are particularly heavy, it may be a case of the wash is attacking the glue and/or the plastic in different ways and making them brittle due to the chemical composition/interaction but this only happens if it’s also penetrated whatever “barrier” you put down as a sealing coat.
Ron,
Making nice progress with this little gem, I’m enjoying following along keep it up!
I’m using Future. Sounds crazy but I cracked a glacis when I held it a bit tight. No problem to fix. I may quit using oil washes. I can get there from another direction.
hi guys, steve the thinner i use the gemini masterpeice as never gave me any problems at all but it will strip uncured enamels IF brushed but not while just sitting, i have sometimes used this effect to simulate scuffing but never has it attacked the model itself,
i understand what you were meaning about too many pics to load now, the thing was i wanted to keep it in one thread so it could be viewed start to finish, i think the thing to do is do the whole thing (or much larger updates) then post, that way it will save having to check back often, thanks for the feedback easy viewing is important so i need to figure it out.
this model is at the moment sitting for a few days to cure then the last step will be stowage and final blending . [:)]
Great tutorial Biff. Keep them coming cause I always eager to learn more from other pros.
And of course, thanks for showing us your modest basement tank factory.
so heres a quick update
