I usually use Micro glaze or similar materials for canopies and windshields, but find it isn’t strong enough for windows (as on commercial airliners). "When I mask them, I need to apply pressure and sometimes popped them IN. I have been using epoxy for these in the past, but find epoxy is coming in bigger abd bigger containers, and those tubes where you squeeze from two parts simultaneously. I hate those things. I am looking for alternatives,
Has anyone used Gorilla glue and similar stuff for transparent materials to styrene or resin?
Are these urethane based adhesives?
Don, I typically dip my clear pieces in Future (twice). Like any painted piece I remove the Future from the surfaces where the part will be making contact with the bonding surface(s) it will be attached to. Then I use the same solvent (Weld-On 3) to affix the part into place. This provides a rock solid bond (weld) and I can address any gaps or other issues as I would colored seams. Mask the glass as necessary to protect while you work. You can remove the Future with a Q-Tip dipped in Windex and reapply the Future after cleaning up any goobers that might have happened to the clear part such as overspray or scratch.
There have been so really nicely done models posted here on this forum, which only have on glaring issue…canopy and transparency fit. Using a good solvent helps once wrestle those ill fitting pieces into place to achieve good fit and alignment with seams and gaps that can be addressed and cleaned up.
Using products like Krystal Klear or Elmer’ Glue is nice on occasion, but as you point out they have their limitations as well.
If you’re looking for a stronger glue for clear parts then try watch crystal cement. It dries clear and fast and forms a strong bond.
The solvent suggestion is better though, although I’ve yet to try using Weld-On on clear parts myself… actually I’ve been wondering if a solvent like Weld-On would react adversely to the clear part like super glue does but I believe Gerald answered that question, just as if using super glue on clear parts: make sure the part is dipped in Future at least a couple of times to prevent fogging.
Thanks, guys- I will try the future plus solvent. I think I’ll practice with some scrap first, as I really have a fear of getting solvents near transparent material.
I picked up a package of JB weld for my current project (Boeing 40B) and that is working fine. It is the only epoxy I could find not in those double syringes. But as I say, I’ll try some tests and practice with the future/solvent method for the next project (Fokker F-VII).
If you’re worried about the solvent being too aggressive on the clear part…first apply the solvent to the surface to which it is to mate, then place the clear part in place and push/hold until the bond is made. This way the solvent isn’t making direct contact or too much solvent being in contact with the clear part. I’ll do this for little windows.
I recently got some 2-part epoxy from SprueBros that Zap makes…it comes in bottles and pours out easily, and sets up in about 5 mins. Much better methodology than those syringes IMO. Makes a good bond as far as I can tell.
http://store.spruebrothers.com/zap-z-poxy-5-minute-quick-set-epoxy-glue-4oz-pt37-p12347.aspx
Gorilla Glue is a moisture activated urethane glue. It is particularly good for porous materials such as wood where the foam interlocks with the pores. Because Gorilla Glue foams as part of its setting process the parts must be FIRMLY clamped together - not just masking tape or finger pressure. The foaming action will displace parts which are not sufficiently clamped. Regardless, hardened foamed glue will ooze out of the joint. It will likely be visible inside your transparency - where it can’t be cleaned up
I’ve used Gorilla on large solid resin ship parts. It has worked but the parts MUST be firmly clamped along the whole length of the joint (talking C-clamps every couple of inches here) to minimize the foaming of the joint. Even then there was foam to clean up.
Gorilla glue really doesn’t have a lot of applications in the plastic modeling hobby.
I have a product called RC 56 glue that I bought years ago to attach canopies on RC aircraft. I still have the bottle and also use the product to attach clear parts and to make windows and headlights on my plastic models. It dries clear as glass and is extremely strong. It looks like Elmers but stronger and clearer when dry.