I want to know if someone had a bad experience by using white vinegar instead of Micro Set or Micro Sol. I’m building the mercury spacecraft 1/12 by atomic city and there is a lot of uneven surfaces. I was looking for Micro Sol but I was not able to get some. So (on this forum) I asked for some advice and white vinegar sounded like a good alternative for many of you.
I tried it and it worked out pretty good, I keep the vinegar warm and can make the decals fit any surfaces. I never worked with Micro Sol but I heard some scary things about the decals swirling and bubbling but white vinegar did the job pretty well without all those bad things.
If anyone had other comments about this, I would like to know! But for as long as I know, I would recommand vinegar without a doubt.
Actually, Micro Set is Vinegar based & is the milder setting solution. Pure Vinegar might be a little stronger than the Micro Set solution. Mico Sol is alcohol based & is the stronger of the two. It will cause most decals to temporarily bubble, but as long as you don’t touch them they will dry flat to the model surface. If your happy with the Vinegar, stay with it. It’s a lot cheaper in the long run.
The first time I used Micro Sol I was ready to call 911… it looked like a nuclear meltdown!!! Of course it dried flat as a pancake and hugged the panel lines like a new glove! But what a scare!!!
lol I know what you mean it is scary I use white vinager to set it when working with uneven surfaces like the delta on the 737 I just finished the decals on the nose would have been hard to get right with out it on flat surfaces I usually dont bother but I use micro-sol on every decal I just love how they look after words.
Ok as i see a couple of the “Usual Suspects” posting here so i will ask a st00pid Questshun[D)].How do you use solvents and setting soloutions i have never needed to use them before and would like to see how and what they do any advice you guys have is appreciated
Take a look at my finished model on the “space” forum and tell me if you are able to make your decals to set on that kind of surfaces without any setting solutions!
Awesome job Yann as for a surface like that i would pull out the fine detail brushes and hand paint them I’m a Commercial artist/illustrator by trade but i bet using the decals is ALOT easier and less time consuming ( not to mention friendlier on the eyes “Squint Squint” ) i tend to use hotter water and push my decals into pannel lines before theyre totally set Unless the kit is covered in Zimmerit then it’s back to the brushes.As before Awesome work [^][tup][tup]
Panzerwulff, If you’re able to paint such detail, you are a real good artist with a lot of patience because even with the decals, it’s very long and hard to do. I would like to see what you’ve done so far.
I’ll see what I can dig up but some of my pieces are in the 1/72 german armor GB thread in the group build forums and i have a 1/72 Jagdpanther with Zimmerit on the table now all markings WILL have to be hand painted.I dont have a website for PanzerWulff Graphics yet but I’ll see what i can post of my illustration work
Chris - I’ll own up to being a “usual suspect”… [;)] Basically (if it wasn’t explained earlier in the thread here) I wet my decal, when it is free of the backing paper I put Micro-Set on where the decal will go. Then I slide the decal off and position it ‘just so’…after about 10 min or until almost dry I take a moist (not wet) paper towel and press down on the decal and slide any airbubbles out and try to get it started setting into the detail (like the zimmerit you mentioned, or panel lines on an aircraft) if it doesn’t sit all the way in with this do not worry… Because after the decal is dry I hit it with Micro-Sol… This is some good stuff, you put it on and a lot of decals start bubbling and wrinkling like the dudes in one of those werewolf movies or something… again, do not panic, walk orderly and silently to the fridge and get another cold one… (of your choice!) … after about an hour or so check it again, if it is wrinkled hit it with Micro-sol again, and again ad nauseum… actually the most I have had to Micro-sol without giving up and taking the decal off is 3 to 5 times… by this time it is sitting down tight in the detail and flush to the surface, sometimes there is a little ridge where the decal edges are (which would be worse without the Microset/sol) but it disappears with the flat coat…
that’s it! With the Microsol just stick to the decal itself… dont worry about getting it around the edges… and if you future your model before decaling expect some degree of hazing. (no, not some college pranksters with a wooden paddle and a goldfish for you to swallow…) it’s just the future might turn whitish is all. [;)] Let it dry 24 hours or at worse recoat with future and it is gone!!!
That’s it!!! Just remember. if you put the Microset on you can still position the decal somewhat… once the Microsol goes on all you have to remember is: “just say no and go”… if you touch it, it will turn to a gooey mess OR fragment into 10,003.576 (squared) pieces in front of your eyes!! It is very fragile at that point…
they both really are a worthwile product… but hey… if you’re good at handpainting like you are maybe stick with the hand painted decals… I am sure they look better! If you want to try it though I am sure you won’t be disappointed!
Thanks Tom for the info I was wondering how the stuff was used but as you have seen I’m not bad with the brushes. it’s always good to learn a new techniques I hope to be able to get back to building soon esp as time is running out on theBoG gb TTFN
i used the white vinegar with no problems, and i also tried 60% isopropyl aclohol as a set and it seemed to work,has anyone else tried the alcohol and what strenght is recommended as the best and not too harsh on the decal?