Hi all - another stupid paint question…
I’ve got a Zero to paint, and I use Humbrol enamels, but I hate the white. Its thick and gloopy like Tippex, and takes at least two coats. I’m worried that all panelling detail will be lost beneath it, and it’ll look like it’s been artexed.
Anyone have any tips on how to get a better finish? I don’t have an airbrush.
Cheers
I airbrush flat white, modelmaster, and it looks great. Takes about 2 coats, looks better on a grey primer. I never, ever, never for any reason use a brush with white. Airbrush is the way to go. Or, a spray can. My 2 cents.
nsclcctl, What type of grey primer do you use? I use ModelMaster nearly exclusively for the top coats, but up till now I never was serious enough to bother priming. I’m going to prime from now on, but don’t know yet what works well under MM paints. Thx.
Railroad reffer white over a gray primer = one coat coverage.
I have always had trouble with White, their isn’t much room for error in thinning it and usually requires two light coats, but you can do them at the same time depending on the size of the area being painted. I have used Pactra (a name from the past), Testors and Humbrol. The railroad reffer white is probably Floquil and that is actual a lacquer based paint, good stuff though…
As for primer I recently start using Mr.Surfacer 500 and fell in love with the stuff. It goes on even, fills scratches and seams and provides a good base for painting.
I’ve recently used Testors light grey spray enamel as a primer for Tamiya acrylic flat white from an airbrush. I’m very happy with the results. The only caveat that I’m aware of is that the enamel must be completely dry before putting down the acrylic.
Regards,
-Drew
In regards to the original question, I’d go with Testors spray flat white enamel. Just be sure to hold the model far enough away from the spray and go with several light coats.
Regards,
-Drew
I’ve always had trouble with light colors (whites, yellows, light blues) when brush painting - I get the best results by thinning and then letting each coat dry at least 24 hrs (and preferably 48) - the other thing to do is to paint in one direction (If you keep going back and forth, the thinner will loosen the base coat you painted yesterday.
Something you might experiment with: I use Model Master paints and have been experimenting with thinning with laquer thinner (which goes against everything I have been taught about thinning paints) I’ve tried insignia yellow and white and they seem to go on smoother and appear a little brighter. Still uncomfortable with this but will continue to experiment with it. If you try it let me know how it comes out. Don’t know why I do it got two airbrushes and paint booth now - guess I did it that way for too many years to give it up.
Keith, Thin down the Humbrol with white spirit’s or turps or even Humbrol’s own brand thinner/brush wash, though it’s expensive that way. Around three parts paint to one part thinners will do. This will mean that you don’t lose the detail, the paint will brush on nicely, & you don’t use up so much paint.
I’m not sure where you are in the world, but try spray painting with a white plastic
primer (not indoors !) available from car accessory shops. I get mine in the UK from Halfords.
Pete
Does anybody know how to thin Mr. Surfacer 500 for airbrushing? What thinner do I need to use?
I hear people say use Gunze paint thiner.
Gunze makes 2 types of thinner, the “Mr Leveling Thinner” is the one designed for airbrushing. Alternatively you can use “Mr Thinner” and add “Mr Retarder Mild”, same result one is pre-mixed the other one isn’t.
FWIW, I prefer the Leveling thinner also for brush work.
If you are brush painting, try thinning with laquer thinner. Since I started thinning my light colors (whites, yellows and light blues)with laquer thinner, I seem to get better coverage and less visible brush strokes. I prime with automotive grey primer.
I have the same problem with white paint. I am now using Gunze Sangyo Mr. Color white in spray can or bottle and satisfied with the results.
You can also try Mr. Base White by Gunze, another great product of theirs.
I got sick of airbrushing white and took the easy way out.
Go to your car accessories shop and buy a can of flat white primer.
Its quick and easy - remember to spray light coats of paint and you will get great results.
the same goes for gloss varnish,
My current project is a 1/32 ME109g14 , mostly sprayed with car paints - the car paint didnt react with the Tamiya overspray.
Get rid of the headaches and use the cheap spray paint! - and open a window.
Can’t say I’ve painted that much white, but where I have I have always used a primer coat of Lifecolour Primer, which is itself white, so ideal for lighter colours.
A top coat of Lifecolour or Gunze white then goes on beautifully.
I never brush white on, I always use an airbrush, soooo much better!
Karl