WHITE OUT

Tools, Techniques, and Reference Materials Techniques
1

Just thought I`d let you all know I tried white out as a small seam filler, and it WORKS!! I dont remember who posted it, but Thanks! One ove the good things I foud, is that the new ones come with a touch and flow tip, besides the sponge brush. When using the “pen” it fows along a small seam filling as you go. So seams arnt the big bad monster I thought they would be.Try it , You ll like it, as Mikey would say…

2

I’m curious as to how it’ll act under the paint?

3

Ill post photos when I start painting. My 1/32 F105 should be ready to start painting on in a coulpe of days, now that I have 85% of seams done. Just a couple of ones the whiteout didnt fill. So keep your fingers crossed< and wish me luck

4

Did you have to sand the WiteOut when dried? If yes, how did you sand?

5

JV, I didnt use very much, so sanding was minimal. I pefer to use sanding sticks and only had to use fine and xfine. all came out well. Due to cold and damp weather, I havent been able to do any painting as yet. Have to do all my spraying (ab or rattle can) outdoors…

6

I didn’t have good results with WiteOut (brush) because it was too thick and hard to sand. I was also told that it would crack later. :-\

I will try with my daughter’s WiteOut pen. :slight_smile: Thanks.

7

Note to myself: Use the respiratory mask!!! The WiteOut dust is BAD.

Got myself a sore throat. :frowning:

8

JV, I`m sorry your having such a pain with this. How big are the seams are you trying to fill? As I said in my first post I found it worked well on SMALL seams. The plastic gods have blessed me with a model that fit very well! Only had a few small seams to fill on wings leading edge and a few on fuse. halves seams, so I had very little problems. Hope you have better luck. Maybe you should try something different?

9

I’ve used White Out for several years now and ever really had any problems with it. (other than the normal operator head space & timing problems normally associated with a learning curve). never had any problems with cracking, shrinking or with painting it. Couple of suggestions:

  1. Don’t think of White Out as a replacement or substitute for your regular modeling putty - if you do, you will have problems with shrinking/cracking.

  2. If you have to use more than two applications on an area, go with your regular putty.

  3. Use it on small problems (very small seam cracks, pinholes etc - think of it as a modelers spot and pin hole putty)

  4. Don’t let it set for a long period (seems to get harder with time, like CA glues). Let it dry for 15 to 30 minutes and then wet sand it with 400 grit or finer wet/dry sand paper. (if it ain’t dry in 30 minutes, you’ve applied too much).

  5. If at all possible, lightly sand the application area before you apply White Out - unlike a lot of modeling putties, it isn’t “hot” enough to “grab” the styrene surface and you may have problems with chipping if you don’t.

  6. Apply your paint as you would normally.

And finally a word about the applicator - I prefer the small squeezable bottles/pens with the ball point tips. They seem to allow me better control, apply the correct amount of liquid and they remain thin in the container much longer than the bottles with the brush type applicator (I use Pentax Correction Liquid)

Just some thoughts and I hope they help.

10

Thanks for the suggestions. :slight_smile:

11

hi Guys

twink,etc etc i use it,more so for figures.

I find it good for smaller gaps

chris[B)]