White Glue & Clear Parts: Your Method

Tools, Techniques, and Reference Materials Techniques
1

Okay I’ve tried three times to glue a canopy on. I use as little glue as possible and managed to smudge the canopy each time I adjusted the fit. [oops] [banghead]

Which method do you use?

  1. Glue the clear part first and drop it in place.

  2. Glue the model first and drop the clear part in place.

  3. Drop the clear part in and glue around it. Like installing a window and gluing it in from the inside.

As I’m writing this, I’m thinking maybe I should let the glue setup a little before dropping it in place?

2

I could offer more specific advise if I knew which kit you were working with but in general;

  1. Lay a fine bead of clear parts cement around perimeter of area on model where clear part will go.

  2. Gently place part onto glue bead and apply light pressure to set in place.

  3. After glue has had a chance to set up look for gaps on the glue and add some if neccessary. I use a toothpick to help with application.

Clear parts cement remains pliable for a while so you can scrape off excess (like that smudge) with a toothpick later.

3

For applying white glue (Elmers) or a clear part cement (in my case, Humbrol clearfix) I apply it to the model with a toothpick & then gently place the canopy into position.
You can move the canopy a little, but if you’re way out, I find it’s best to remove it completely, clean everything up, & start again. You could try masking the canopy before you fit it. If you do get smears on it, try polishing with toothpaste on a bit of old Tshirt, that should remove any glue. Matt paint should chip off with a toothpick.
Pete

4

For canopies I usually just use Future. It seems to hold them fine, but I wouldn’t recommend it for parts that have any load on them :slight_smile:

5

I have had good luck with two part epoxy which drys clear. Just apply with a toothpick. One big advantage is that it does give you a few minutes of working time so you can make adjustments before the epoxy sets up. It is stronger than white glue so parts tend to stay on better. Have also used epoxy with underwing stores and landing gear.

6

hello
my technique is most similiar to the third choice. only I do a little glue on the model first. One side only usually the side the lines up with the side of plastic with the biggest edge that will adhere to model. Then i fill in the other three sides using a toothpick.
hope that helped a bit
cheers [:)][:D][8D]

7

I try hard to make the canopy fit as well as is physically possible (no gaps) by careful trimming and sanding.
I often coat the canopy in Future (but not always), let it dry, then apply a TINY drop of superglue to two or three points around the canopy. That holds it in place.
Then I thin white glue with water, and use a 000 brush to apply the thinned glue to the join.
Alternatively, Scott has the idea - apply a little Future to the join instead of any other glue. Wait till it dries, then use thinned white glue to fill the gaps.
Good luck.

8

I use clear parts cement. I squeeze a little drop on to a tile, then apply it in a very very thin line using a toothpick. Works like a charm

9

Another good way is to very carefully brush a little Testors Liquid Cement (the kind with the brush in the bottle) on the area where the canopy is to seat. It is stronger than Future and white glue and drys fast.

Mike