Hey,
I’m starting on cleanup on my first plastic model in about 25 years. In the past it was the testors tube stuff but CA was just starting to come on the market but would kill clear parts.
I have seen glue specificly for clear and I intend to use it but for general glue ups what do you all prefur? I was never a big fan of the tube stuff because of the squeeze out cleanups.
How are the extra thin glues?
Thanks
Tamyia extra thin glue good all around glue
Welcome back to the hobby.I like to use Tamiya Extra Thin with the green cap for most work.I also use some sort of CA glue which is similar to super glue.For PE I use Gator Grip Glue.
I’m with armor, Tamiya extra thin is a great glue.
Thank you!
Tamiya extra thin is good for gluing virgin styrene together.
Only.
It won’t bond anything else, for instance resin, photo etched brass, other kinds of plastic or anything painted.
You need to also have CA on hand, and clear parts glue.
Be aware that CA will fog clear plastic even if there is no contact. If you glue bombs into the bomb bay of an aircraft with CA, don’t be surprised if the fumes travel through the fuselage and cloud the cockpit canopy.
Hi Shnake, I use the Tamiya Extra Thin with the green top for all my general plastic work. I use the Testors blue tube glue for anything that has to handle any real stress and various makes of CA for small details that will not have any chance of being knocked off easily. Sometimes I use Elmers white glue for parts inside the cockpit.
Jim [cptn]
Welcome back sir! As with everyone else replying, Tamiya Extra Thin Cement is what I use to weld together styrene parts.
I also utilize Testors clear parts glue and Testors Liquid Cement for Plastic Models #3507 for large areas.
CA (Thin, Medium, Thick) for PE.
Toshi
I use EMA Plastic weld. Its a UK brand not sure what the equivalent would be over there.For PE and resin Zap A Gap CA. For clear parts i use evostik wood glue. I did have a bottle of the micro Krystal Klear. But i didn’t use a lot of it and after a few years it went hard and it was still 3/4 full. The wood glue does the same job, dries clear and i use it for otehr stuff so won’t go to waste.
I use Tamiya extra thin for fine work, but Testors liquid cement for general purpose and larger areas. I still keep a tube of Testors just in case I need some gaps filled as I glue.
Almost all types of glue- CA, gel CA, white glue, solvent cements, epoxy, contact cement, UV hardening resin.
Lately I have been using the UV hardening glues for clear plastic- best strength in a non-hazing glue.
Another for Tamiya extra thin.
For clear parts I use Testors (blue label, triangle shaped bottle)
For resin and PE…I really like UMM CA, with the purple cap.
That’s all I keep at the bench. Once in a great while though, I’ll break out some epoxy…usually for landing gears that don’t have a good, solid fit.
Hey Schnake,
For glueing the styrene kit parts use Tamiya Extra Thin Cement, one with the green cap. Really good for all scales because the glow flows evenly and doesn’t remain in a clump. Brush on cap is great for applying the glue. I use it to glue 1/48 fuselage halves, but it isn’t the best for that (dries quick, so need to apply some later and sand down).
For clear parts I recommend elmers glue (or other white glue) to avoid fogging up canopy. Leaves it nice and and clear, also doesn’t affect paint.
For resin aftermarket parts and photo etch I recommend super glue. I currently use gorilla glue super gel (dries very quick, 10 seconds) and is good for small vertical parts. For pieces like photo etch ship railings you might want to use a slower setting CA glue to move it around not sure… (CA brand comes with a fine applicator).
Allo Dere !
I bees one ob dose wid a tube glue hatred . Anyway . I specifically use either Testors Liquid glue for general assembly . Also have found Tamiya " Thin " liquid great for same ( Green Label ) . Now for clear I use the new glue that needs a UV light to cure . It so far hasn’t fogged canopies , otherwise for clear parts , I use Aleens craft glue in the Bronze , Copper ? bottle .
Everyone has their preference . Now point ! On the Testors . The brush in the bottle . Chunk It ! Use a fine well made brush that comes to a fine point . Take your glue bottles and get a package of Scrubbies . The 3"x4" ones . Cut a hole that grips the bottle tightly . The scrubby side goes on the bottom .Why .The scrubby surface grips the table surface and the sponge part holds the bottle stable and upright .
Now that said , good luck and hope to hear from you soon . T.B. P.S. Save those cleaned glue Bottles .They are great for making sprue Glue ( a mixture of glue and plastic scrap , ( Chopped up ) For a filler and for mixing larger amounts of paint for a larger project.
Thank you so much for all you input!!! Going to go with the green cap and probably white glue for the clear stuff.
I’m also thinking of using diluted white glue for the flocking too. I’ve seen some people using paint and flocking over that.
My flock color will be black.
Hello!
For styrene parts I use lacquer thinner applied from a nail lacquer bottle, with the cap brush replaced by a dental microbrush. Works like charm! And it’s almost free. Good luck with your modelling projects and have a nice day
Paweł
Everyone has pretty much covered the typical glues out there, and these are what I also use for the most part. I will add that Gator Grip is great, and it comes in a thick and a thin formula. Recently, I started using MEK… I know, there are health risks associated with it and you have to be extremely careful with the fumes and making sure there are no ignitions sources around; however, that being said, I have had excellent luck using this recently. I purchased a large can at Home Depot and transferred some out of the main can into an old bottle of Plasti-weld that I had that has a brush applicator. Like Tamiya Extra Thin, it is wicked into the seam and dries extremely fast.
[quote user=“fox”]
Hi Shnake, I use the Tamiya Extra Thin with the green top for all my general plastic work. I use the Testors blue tube glue for anything that has to handle any real stress and various makes of CA for small details that will not have any chance of being knocked off easily. Sometimes I use Elmers white glue for parts inside the cockpit.
Jim
have found gorrilla clear to be a new found friend. put it on let get tacky insert part and wait overnight and it dries hard and clear. It is easy to clean when tacky even on clear. I use it exclusively on exterior pieces, door handles etc. After experimenting with cleaners I found ca accelerant,which smells like hydrogen peroxide, works great and leaves no residue.