I have been using an I-phone12 and it’s been OK (I do have a SLR Oylmpus 510) I might give a try.
Thanks!
1 Like
iPhone 17… and I’m quite content with using that
1 Like
Cannon Power Shot ELPH 190 IS
I’ve been using a my mom’s old T1i, T7, and EOS 7D. I recently picked up a D750 that use for my church’s media team. Lens wise, I have the kit lens for all of them, a 50-200mm, and my favorite which is a 75-250mm. I like to use that one for planespotting. I’ve been looking into getting an old refurbed 15mm prime (just to focus on composition work) and a 400 but they’re too expensive and honestly not worth it right now.
1 Like
I too have a Nikon D750, and for shooting models, I’m using a Tokina ATX-i 100mm Macro F2.8. For quick, in-progress bench shots, I have a speedlight with a diffuser that works good, though hotspots are a problem. For finished-model glamour shots, I use a little amazon light box with some LED panels and Helicon Focus for focus stacking. I use Adobe Lightroom for processing, except for the focus stacking which has to happen in Photoshop.
Honestly, it’s way overkill, but I already own the gear for other uses. The only downside is that macro lens shows TOO much detail most of the time, way more than any naked eye would ever see…
1 Like
iPhone SE 3. Works well enough for me.
Not to hijack the topic but, my tablet camera works great. It’s lighting I’m having issues with. How is the community lighting the models and what lights would you recommend?
I have been using a work table with overhead LED but they are too bright and cast shadows so going to re-think it going forward.
I use combination of my S10+, Canon 7D, and Sony AX700. For lighting when shooting at my photo setup I use a trio of work lights, 2 positioned on the sides and the third above my camera.
1 Like
I currently use a Cannon Powershot SX520 HS digital Camera with a Zap Port Photo Light box (16"x16"x 12"). It has adjustable brightness and color LED lights. It’s less than $25(Amazon). Before that I used a white poster board and a goose neck incandesent light.
3 Likes
Just ran across this video from FSM on facebook. They discuss how to photograph your model and how to submit your pics/story to the magazine. Starts at the 10:55 mark.
FSM opens kits from Kotare and Tamiya, teaches how to photograph models, and talks submissions
1 Like
I just watched this video on the Fine Scale Modeler web site. Tim does a very good job explaining, without being too technical.
1 Like
For progress photos I use my iPhone 8 - it’s good enough for snapshots.
For my “formal” photo shoots at project completion
I use my Canon EOS-7D digital SLR with a Canon 24/105L lens. The camera is 15 years old but it still produces good images.
I use a tripod and connect the camera to my laptop using Canon software which allows me to access all camera controls through the computer. I generally shoot using the smallest aperture for increased depth of field. I can adjust the shutter speed through the computer for proper exposure.
Backgrounds are white, grey or blue foam core board. For lighting I use a variety of LED lamps situated to reduce glare and shadows.
I shoot RAW files which I “develop” using “DXO Photo Lab” software. I generally crop, correct for lens sharpness, adjust the exposure. Nothing fancy.
Seeing the other replies, I may look into a light box.
1 Like
Adding that one simple piece of equipment will greatly enhance your photos. It is a huge step up.
I’ve been using a Panasonic Lumix TZ99 compact camera which allows focus stacking and it will sit low on a diorama base etc for “scale eye level” shots. I’ve very recently bought a Nikon Z50 ii mirrorless camera (with 18-140 zoom for starters) and initial results are very good, especially with small aperture settings. Nice and sharp.
Thanks for reference to FSM video with Tim’s input on photographing models, there was an earlier one that I saw but couldn’t find again later.
Now a light box sounds a good idea, thanks for that suggestion as well.
Some of my model photography takes place outdoors, particularly small dioramas.
1 Like
Watched the recent FSM video and that linked to the earlier one (seems to be 2020?).
I was pleased to see that the Nikon SRLs they used were not too far from the spec of my recent one and also used a similar 18-140 zoom.
Also they had a bridge camera (in first video) that was like the old one I used to use. Really the best advice was using a sweep, a length of white or gray art paper, clipped or taped up as a curved background for the model to be photographed. That’s worked well for me.
So a very useful couple of FSM videos.
I just use my iPhone SE. I have a Cannon Powershot, but have not used it in years.
For lighting, I use a daylight type fluorescent bulb.
2 Likes
I currently use a pair of Canons. I have an old T1i as my ‘backup’ unit (which is what I am using for any of my “wip” images at low resolution here) and I also have a T2i as my primary camera.
I have a fairly wide assortment of lenses and, because I am something of an ‘experimenter’ when it comes to stuff, I have diopters (+1, +2, +4, +10) and some barrel extensions (13mm, 22mm and a 36mm) that make my ‘bigger lenses’ useful for some very enlarged macro work.
Part of me getting back into this hobby is a way for me to expand my photographic skills and portfolio with practice snapping my work in progress, technical images for ‘how I did this’ sort of stuff and setting up what amounts to a mini-studio specifically for models, miniatures and diorama work I plan to do over time.
I’d use my old Sony Cybershot if I hadn’t worn it out (it failed on me after 40K+ images), which was a great little camera – amazing technology packed into such a small body when you think about it. I’d use a phone, except my wife and I share one mobile phone and that means she uses it pretty much exclusively 
Most any camera/phone imaging system will do the trick. As with making the models and such, getting a ‘handle’ on photographing your work is a matter of experience, experiment and exhibition. How do you want it to look when the image is taken?
I am going to attempt to do a lot of images that try to replicate very up close for some builds and for others (like the dioramas) I plan on making a sort of portfolio set of closeup, medium and long images, most of which will be intended to capture a ‘movie’ still level of lighting, mise-en-scene and some more technical studio images (for the ‘how I did it’ and ‘how to do this’ type of images).
Getting back into this hobby was intended to reconnect with my love of model making while hoping to enhance and expand my skillset of photographic skills and experience. I hope that what I intend makes it to these pages. Things seem to keep intruding on my return to the hobby.
Great question, by the way. In this day and age, you could probably even do a decent presentation with a laptop camera if you can manage to aim it at your subject.