I have been using Tamiya thin and quick however I’m not sure I’ll continue using them for larger parts. I accidentally dropped a part I had glued with the quick set a few days after i had assembled the part. When it hit the floor, it came apart and the glue joints looked like there was no glue. I had glued it properly and had seen the liquid seep into the joint.
I like the brand, maybe i did something wrong…
I use Tamiya thin on plastic almost exclusively. I have been using black CA recently as a filler in conjunction with InstaSet accelerator and CA debonder. Still learning here but looks promising.
For resin, I’ll use CA
For plastic, I’ve always preferred the ‘plastic welder’ adhesives like Tenax-7R (now long defunct, I think), Micro Mark’s “Same Stuff” and “Styrene Tack It II,” the latter available from Arizona Hobbies. I apply mine with a split-tip drafting pen, just touch the seam and it spreads by capillary action. Fast-setting, and really strong ‘melted and fused’ bond. [:D]
MEK is said to do much the same, though I’ve never used it myself.
What I do when applying Tamiya Extra Thin is to deliberately leave the parts not quite pressed together all the way when tapping the brush to the joint. You see the glue get pulled along the joint, but you shouldn’t stop there. Hold the parts in that position for about 20 seconds, and THEN mash them the rest of the way together. At that point, what you should see is a little bead of melted plastic come oozing up along the surface of the joint. From there, you can flex and slide the two pieces in whatever direction(s) you need to to make sure you have good alignment of panel lines, make sure the two pieces are flush and not stepped, etc. That will give you two pieces of plastic that are now one piece of plastic because they are actually welded together. After doing that, I usually wait at least overnight, and then carefully sand away the hardened bead of plastic. With the right technique of sanding and polishing away that bead of plastic, you can even mostly eliminate the need to do any filling of seams afterward. Tamiya Extra Thin excels at bringing large parts together, because it allows you to progressively zip up joints which might otherwise have had large gaps in them if you had tried gluing them together all at once.
As far as your question,I use Tamiya Extra Thin green cap for the bulk of my work,I also use Gorilla Glue as my super glue,bottle stays fresh to the end.
thanks guys lots of good help.
I use DAP Rapid Fuze CA for many non-styrene applications; resin and some 3D. I found that Tamiya Thin doesn’t work on ABS plastic such as used by Rubicon war game models. I use Aleene’s Tacky Glue and/or Gator Grip Glue (regular or thin) on PE railings or some3D items. Different glues for different applications.
I have found that epoxy does have some uses but it creates more mess than my favorites
I use the same as Tojo, Tamiya Extra Thin and Gorilla Super Glue but with a little Elmers White glue for canopies.
Stay safe.
Jim [cptn]
Tamiya xthin, a couple of brands of CA, occasionly white glue.
Tojo, Fox, Missleman [dto:]
For styrene to styrene, Tamiya Extra-Thin, Testor’s Liquid (in the odd-shaped black plastic bottle), and good ol’ Testor’s tube glue. It depends on the join.
When I first started using liquid styrene cement, I first used Plastruct’s Weldene and Bondene. Those glues were good, but the applicator brushes that come with then are a little imprecise for applying glue.
For unlike materials, such as resin to styrene or metal, metal to styrene, or metal to metal; or for resin to resin; I’ll use CA glue or a 5-minute 2-part epoxy. CA is good for some joins, but for joins requiring more strength and resistance to shear force, I prefer the epoxy. And where possible, I’ll pin those joins for added strength.
As for what happened to your model, I don’t think there is a cement in the world that would survive a drop and impact with the floor.