I picked up an Ironside SSYMS heavy flat car on Ebay but it does not come with and rails, ties roadbed etc. The ties and road bed are easy but what about 1/35 scale rails?
And a question on loading. Would the flat car pull up to a depot and the tank drive on form and equal height platform or would it be lifted on?
DML, Trumpeter ,Verlinden, Tank Workshop, and a couple others all make railroad track in 1/35.
Or, you “could” check out the measurements of your local railroad track,!http://i717.photobucket.com/albums/ww173/prestonjjrtr/Smileys/1lg132derail.gif scale them to 1/35 and use some plastruct “I” beams to scratch 'em. Should be close enough.
Watch out for trains while 'ya all bent over though. !http://i239.photobucket.com/albums/ff24/Outdoorsfool/smileys%20and%20gifs/sterb301.gif
I believe the tanks were driven onto the flatcars from a ramp… possibly lifted off at the destination, depending on conditions.
Just my take on it.
!http://i20.photobucket.com/albums/b232/gluetank/Decorated%20images/th_T1-4-copy.jpg
I spent 40 years in model trains this is easy one, go to any good hobby that sells model trains you can got pieces of rail a bag of ties and spikes. I’ll teach how to roll your own as we ex modelrailroaders call it, you will also need some cork road bed. And a piece of soft pine 3 to 4 inches wide glue cork to pine board use white glue then glue wood ties to cork white glue again. let dry over night determine your rail width inside to inside rail head,use needle nose pliers and push the spikes down aganist rail base. It sounds hard but it’s not just takes pratice. try it aceses5 Need any more help holler
Under a train?
nyuk, nyuk…[t$t]
So what “scale designation” train is closest to 1/35?
Thanks for the responses guys.
I mean really G… [:P]
I found some cross sections of rails on line and I think modifying some I-beam Plastruct is going be the way to go. The fish plate and tie plate will be easy too.
1 Gauge is about the closest to 1/32-1/35th Scale… Dunno how well it would fit your kit though… I’d recommend that you try some Plastruct I-Beams for rails and cut ties from basswood (Folks gotta look REALLY close to see that the I-beam isn’t thicker on top like real rail) and spike 'em down… I used that method for my Wirbelwind dio…
That’s what I am gonna do Hans. But I am thinking of gluing a strip to the top to thicken it and rounding the edges to get a better profile.
Marc…
Way to go
!http://i20.photobucket.com/albums/b232/gluetank/Decorated%20images/th_T1-4-copy.jpg
OutSTANDING idea… Gonna rip you off on my next dio that uses a railway…
I’m going to have a Pershing parked on top of them, so that I could get away with…
“One” gauge? New to me, but then I have a new day every day…
there is a 1/35th scale in model rail roading. Hard to find, but it’s out there just the same. Or you can pay thru the nose for a box from Trupeter. I bought a three foot section for the high price of six dollars about a year ago
gary
Six bucks for three feet? That’s a better deal than a styrofoam cooler…
I’ve seen it done 2 ways; either the flatcar was pulled up with it’s end to a concrete ramp and the tank would drive up the ramp and onto the flatcar, the fun part was that the first few tanks would get to drive across the empty cars until reaching the first one in the train, or the flatcar would be pulled up beside a platform that was even with the car, the tank would then drive diagonally onto the flatcar and then pivot to line itself up with the car. hope this helps
In the US, Rail is classified by weight per yard. Model railroad rail is sold by height - the same rail can be used in multiple scales but the height in each scale will result in different weights.
In HO (1:87) code 100 rail was for years the only one you could buy commercially. Code 100 rail is 0.100 inches high and in HO, is equal to rail that weighed 156 lbs per yard. This would be the Heaviest main line rail … and very rare. Currently Code 83 is widely used since in HO a rail 0.083 inches equals to a rail weighing 132 lbs per yard. This is the common main line rail you see all the time. Secondary routes and sidings use rail weighing 100 lbs per yard which in HO is represented by Code 70 rail. Code 55 rail would represent 75 lb rail which would have been used on rail in the 1800’s and narrow gauge.
In N scale (1:160) using Code 80 rail would represent a rail weighing 227 lbs per yard which would be 45% oversize. Code 70 rail would still be oversize at 27%. The smallest normally used is Code 55 (0.055) which equals to the Heavy Main Line rail that Code 100 represents in HO.
The point is … you can use this to determine the size of rail you need for whatever scale you model. Take the four Codes. Converting those heights back to Full Size:
Code 100 (0.100) = 8.71"
Code 83 (0.083) = 7.23"
Code 70 (0.070) = 6.1"
Code 55 (0.055) = 4.79"
The European rail was as far as I know, smaller then that in the US. I would guess that the 6.1" for Code 70 would probably represent the rail used.
So. Take 1:35 then. Converting that 6.1" to 1:35 we get .174" … or Code 174
You can get Code 143 rail in O Scale for example in made by Peco. Converting back to 1:35 … Code 143 would equal to 5" tall rail … essentially equal to the Code 55 in HO … very light rail, used in the US in the 1800’s and narrow gauge.
This page … http://urbaneagle.com/data/RRrailsizes.html … shows rail in various scales. Looks like the O scale rail measuring 0.161" is about the closest you are going to find. That would scale to 5.64"
Oh. Don’t forget the spacing between the ties. That’s around 11-1/2" for mainline and round 16" for sidings (of course it varies but that is a ballpark figure for track in the US)
Oh. The other question as to how the tanks get from onto the flatcars etc. I was a tanker for 12 years including three years in Germany. Loaded a lot of tanks. We just drove them off of the loading dock onto the railcars. The tank is heavy enough that it the weight keeps the back side on the loading dock until the front fo the track touches on the rail car. The tank drives forward … so it’s sitting basically sideways … then pivots. The first time they told me to ‘drive the tank off the dock’ … I was like … WTH?? It worked fine. That was side loading. You can use end loading but you got to be careful that the tank doesn’t push the rail car away … that could be a ‘bad thing’.
Continuing a bit on rail in 1:35 Scale (which I need couple lengths for a dio).
How about making the rail using plastic I-Beams?
Looking at the Evergreen website’s specs on their I-Beams …
They have two I-Beams within the range we need for the Code 174 (0.174") rail
Part No. 275 which is .156" high and Part No. 276 which is .188" high.
.156" would equal 5.46" and .188" would equal 6.58"
The .156 woud be equal to about 105lb rail.
The .188 would be equal to about a 125lb rail.
I overlayed the Evergreen .188 I-Beam on top of a rail cross-section. I made the I-Beam Red.
!(http://i856.photobucket.com/albums/ab130/LCRRinHO/Structures/NC Buildings/Rail_1.png)
A few more calculations … and I came up with this. The Green is 0.030 Square Strip Styrene and the blue is 9.020x0.030 Styrene. That bottom web thickness in red is actually something like 0.015 … but you can see that filliting where it is gray … and then filing the top of the I-Beam (Light Red) would give us a rail.
!(http://i856.photobucket.com/albums/ab130/LCRRinHO/Structures/NC Buildings/Rail_2.png)
Kudos for the analytical approach eTraxx. Lay another one of those blue strips over lower flanges of the I-beam, bevel the external edges and there is not as much filling to do.
Don
Don, thanks. The funny part is after thinking about it I will probably just go with some channel the same height. I’m working on a small dio based on some photos I took in North Carolina of some old stone buildings. A close-up of a window seems to indicate that they used railroad rail as headers. Thing is … looking at that … it could just as well be channel.
!(http://i856.photobucket.com/albums/ab130/LCRRinHO/Structures/NC Buildings/DSC02137_600x800_closeup.jpg)
Thanks for all the info guys. Tellis, I would really like to see a Tiger driving the full length of a train. That would be a sight. The side platform could work for a small dio though.
Etraxx… what can I say besides… you did all that figuring… you may as well just make 'em for me[whstl] Seriously. This is going to come in very handy when i get around to this project.
