What's your experience removing chrome? Does it soften the plastic?

Tools, Techniques, and Reference Materials Techniques
1

I was at a model store and mentioned that I use drain opener to remove chrome from a model car’s wheels, grills, bumpers, etc… the guy that worked there said something about “overkill” then mentioned he uses brake cleaner to remove chrome (go figure, THAT seems like overkill!)

I’ve had good results with the drain opener. Depending on the model manufacturer, it takes just a few seconds to at most overnight to remove all the chrome. I’ve noticed a couple of things and was wondering what other peoples’ experience / opinion are:

Some plastic (depending on the model manufacturer) seems fairly soft and pliable after this treatment. I thought maybe it was the drain opener, but maybe it’s the chroming process itself? Most chome parts that I haven’t de-chromed seem soft and pliable, too.

Some plastic (again depending on the model manufacturer) seems to have this smooth, shiny film on the surface of the plastic that easily sands off. On some plastic it seems kind of brittle and will flake off, especially on bent pieces that were originally flat (bent with heat to simulate damage). On plastic from some manufacturers it’s not there at all (on de-chromed parts). I thought this might be “crazing” but someone on this forum said in reference to lacquer paint that if crazing occurred you’d know it, the plastic would be so soft it would be as if it melted. Does anyone know what this is, again maybe part of the original chroming process? I assume it may affect the final paint if I don’t sand it all off? Any ideas to remove this, or should I use a different method to de-chrome? I heard Simple Green works but haven’t tried it yet.

Thanks for your comments!

2

I use ADIOS brand nail polish remover (the red colored kind). I’ve had good luck with this. I use a small sealable jar or what ever size I need, fill it, add the pieces, seal, and then stir the container occasionally. After the majority - if not all - of the chrome is gone, I rinse them and use a old toothbrush to brush the rest off. Now, from experience, the pieces are usually soft but firm up after a little bit. The nice thing about this way is that it takes off the clear film underneath the chrome as well. So far (knock on wood) I haven’t had any problems with the plastic from different kits. Clear as mud? [%-)] Hope it helps.

3

Easy Off is an oven cleaner that can be used to remove paint. Stripping paint and stipping chrome are pretty much the same thing. Here are my comments from a paint stripping topic.

True engine degreasers contain Petroluem Distillates(Paint Thinner) which will melt right through plastic. Cleaner/Degreasers like Simple Green and Castrol Super Clean won’t melt plastic no matter how long it sits. Castrol Super Clean use to be available in an aerosol can, but was recalled a couple of years ago and never reissued. I haven’t been able to find any since. I believe that Castrol Super Wheel Cleaner is just a diluted from of CSC, but I’m not positive.

Brake cleaner is mildly effective, but highly toxic. Same with Easy Off.

My recommendation for stripping paint is Wesleys White Wall Cleaner can be found at all NAPA Auto Stores. My uncle told me this will strip paint very well without hurting the plastic and isn’t as toxic as other options.

My other recommendations for stripping paint are items like Pollyscale ELO and Hangar’s Strip-A-Kit. These are similar to paint thinner and are effective in stripping paint. They will not harm plastic.

Windex can also be used to strip paint, but ammonia fumes are more than I can handle. It doesn’t work that well either.

No matter what you use, make sure to use solvent resistant gloves, only do it outside or in a barn, and don’t inhale the fumes. I recommend a respirator for the more toxic and votalie ones. You can use a 3M ScothBrite plastic pad to scrub stubborn paint off. They are green and come in a 2-pack. They will not damage plastic no matter how hard you scrub.

My personal recommendation for stripping chrome is Simple Green. Allow the parts to sit in a container of Simple Green for 3 days. All the chrome and 99% of the glue will be removed. You can use a toothbrush to remove the rest. Simple Green will not affect plastic and can be poured down the drain when done.

4

I use ordinary household vinegar. Not as hard on plastic as some harsh chemical based products.

Just stir the parts on occasion, rinse of with water and away you go. No reaction to the vinegar from the plastic.

A lot cheaper than the other stuff.

5

Vinegar!

What a startling revelation! I never would have thought to try it. I know it also works as a decal set.

6

i’ve had success with engine degreasers… but sometimes it discolors the plastic… leaves some white patches, i don’t mind because i paint primer over it. the plastic does not seem to soften or melt… i use Casite Heavy Duty Engine Degreaser.

Tha vinegar subject sure is interesting… hmm…something to delve into… thanks Lancaster…would you know if it works on all types of paint?

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Thanks everyone for your replys and ideas! I’ll dig out that container of Simple Green… I know I don’t have vinegar but maybe one day I’ll give it a shot.

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Luis, it doesn’t strip paint unfortunately. It’s the acetic acid that takes the chrome plating off.

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oh i see. thanks bro.

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Removing chrome. The ony product i use with good results is warm water as to not warp the part and Spic and Span cleaner or Trisodium Phosphate cleaner sold at your local stores or Aco. Let them soak for at least 24 hours and then check the parts. Scrub with a tooth brush and any leftover chrome will wash off. May have to repeat soaking until all chrome is removed. Found that this way is the cheapest and safest way to do chrome stripping and it does not soften the plastic. Only way i do this task.

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So it is stupid question time. Since I don’t build cards and there isn’t a lot of chrome on a WWII fighter…or so i thought… I have been givenm a Tamyia P-51 that is ALL chrome. If I use one of these methods and actually have a model I can build?

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I don’t know if things have changed in the few years since I have stripped a chrome coat off a plastic kit, but I used to ALWAYS use Westley’s Bleche White. It is a product for cleaning tire white walls that can be found in many automotive stores or automotive departments. It takes the chrome off almost INSTANTLY and I never noticed any negative issues when using it.

-Adam

13

Soaking parts in chlorine bleach works well too. It also kills all the germs as well…Cheers,

Eric

14

soak the parts in bleach for a couple hours. wash the parts in soapy water, no softening.

15

Most cleaners won’t take off the clear coat under the chrome plating. Purple
Power does, sometimes within minutes, sometimes a day, depending on the kit maker. Always wear gloves and be sure to rinse all parts clean with water and a soft toothbrush. I use a freezer zip-lock bag, dump in the parts and pour some PP in, just enough to allow a bit of flow over the parts as the bag is turned round and round. I have reused old PP several times, so if you have a secure container, you can save it for another use.

ELO also works, but seems slower on the clear coat. It’s not as agressive on your hands though.

16

Hi;

Here’s one that will positively make you laugh your bum off ! How about Beet Juice ? From Pickled beets of course .Takes about a week but this is good in a pinch . T.B.

17

I’ve always used Easy Off Oven cleaner… just put the parts in a ziploc baggy, spray some easy off in there to make sure that all the parts get coated well. Let sit for an hour and all chrome and paint just rinse right off with no harm whatsoever to the plastic. Used it for years and is the easiest way I’ve found to do it. Has worked with enamels, acrylics, and lacquers so far with no problems!

18

Are you sure you need to remove the plating? If the problem is the sprue attachment points, I merely prime the piece, put a base coat of gloss black on, then a coat of Alclad polished aluminum or chrome on. Everything stays on, and it looks at least as good as the vacuum deposited aluminum (what is usually used on those parts, not chrome).

19

I use SuperClean to remove paint, and it was precisely this build of Tamiya’s chromed P-51 kit that led me to try it. This is from the Agape Modeling forum:

http://agapemodels.com/forums/index.php?topic=7704.msg104369#msg104369

When I first saw it, it was interesting, but it didn’t lead me to stop using oven cleaner for stripping paint. The active ingredient in oven cleaners like Easy Off, is lye, by the way.

Anyhow, when I started a build of Monogram’s Red Baron hot rod by Tom Daniel, I looked at the seams on the chromed pieces and decided that I had to clean them up. And the only way I could think of doing that and not having a marred finish, was to strip the chrome, and then assemble the parts, prime and apply a chrome color.

I found that the SuperClean removed the chrome from the frets in about 2 minutes. It simply dissolved into the solution. And as a de-greaser, it left the sprues literally squeaky-clean, nothing but bare styrene. I replaced dishwashing liquid with SC when I clean kit sprues before I start building. And I tried it for removing paint, and found that it typically dissolves the paint in a couple of minutes. The longer I leave the pieces in, of course, the more the paint softens or dissolves. Typically, I let them soak for about five minutes, then use an old toothbrush to scrub the paint away gently.

The advantage for me is that a batch of SC can be re-used, so I fill glass jars of various sizes and use them for dipping parts or figures to strip old paint. At about $8 a gallon at Walmart, it’s a bargain.

I have also used it for unclogging drains, and I have used it to clean my oven, and to get grease out of cloth.

SC does not attack styrene, metal or resin. I have a 1/6 anime kit figure on my bench, and I had a piece painted and decided that I needed to strip the paint and clean up some casting flaws in the piece. I stuck it in a jar of SC and forgot about it for two weeks. When I went back to it, I noted that the finish coat of paint (Tamiya gloss acrylic) had dissolved into the solution, leaving the primer on the part. The primer lifted off in sheets when I rinsed the piece under the tap. The resin was not harmed at all.

So, I recommend SC for stripping paint and chrome, for cleaning parts of mold release and grease, and for household work.

Hope that helps!

Best regards,
Brad