I can’t tell you how many you’ll need, but I can tell you how to figure out the sizes for yourself.
The sizes of the deadeyes in the Heller kits appear to be about right. So you can measure them.
None of the blocks in either kit are small enough to represent the smallest ones on the actual ships. To get those sizes you’ll need to consult plans and/or books. And you’ll need to decide (though not in advance of starting) just how much rigging you want to do. To set up all the standing and running rigging that each ship would carry in fighting trim you’d need upwards of a thousand blocks and deadeyes. Unless you have a good deal of experience, though, I wouldn’t recommend trying that. There are plenty of lines that can quite legitimately be left off a display model. Many people rig the standing rigging and the key lines of the running rigging - the braces, lifts, and halyards - and leave it at that.
And there’s no reason to buy all the blocks and deadeyes at once. My suggestion is to start out by ordering a dozen of each size you think you’ll need, compare them to the ones in the kits, and order more as you need them. (If you do a halfway thorough job of rigging, you’ll spend several hundred dollars on blocks and deadeyes. But you can spread that out over several years.)
I’m a big fan of the cast metal ones from Bluejacket ( www.bluejacketinc.com ). The deadeyes you need are the “uppers” and “lowers,” unstropped. It’s relatively easy to count the number of deadeyes you’ll need.
Determining the numbers of blocks is a little harder; I wouldn’t even try to do it in advance. Before you get far into the Victory you need to acquire a decent set of plans. You’ll find lots of recommendations here in the Forum. There apparently are no plans (at least in English-language sources) for the Soleil Royal. The best way to learn how to rig it is to get hold of a copy of R.C. Anderson’s The Rigging of Ships In the Days of the Spritsail Topmast. That’ll tell you everything you need to know to rig a model like that.
Bluejacket blocks are nice, too; I’ve used them to rig my last several models. But for these two particular kits I think I’d recommend considering the wood ones offered by Chuck Passaro’s new company, Syren Ship Models (www.syrenshipmodelcompany.com ). I haven’t bought any yet, but the photos of them look superb. And I think they’re a little cheaper than Bluejacket’s.
Hope that helps at least a little. Good luck.
P.S. The name of the French ship is Le Soleil Royal. “Le” means “the,” “soleil” means “sun,” and “royal” means “royal,” or “regal.” The name is a reference to Lois XIV, “the sun king.” “Soleil” is a masculine noun, so there’s no e on the end. “Le” and “Royal” are masculine adjectives. (If the noun were feminine, the name would be “La Soleile Royale.”) French has no neuter gender. On one of the other web forums we once had an interesting discussion of whether other languages use feminine pronouns, like “she” and “her,” to refer to ships. A French reader explained that almost all French ship names are masculine, the exceptions being ships named after women who’ve been titled Dames of France. Example: La Jeanne D’Arc, named after Joan of Arc.)
As best I can remember from the French courses I took about 45 years ago, the name would be pronounced something like “lih soLAY whaYAH.” But I imagine somebody with a better knowledge of the language can correct me.