I’m ready to get started on my XB-42 Mixmaster from Lone Star Models. It’s an all-resin kit. The surface isn’t too bad but it could use a bit of leveling here and there as well as a couple of tiny pin holes that could use filling. Before one of my nearby ma-n-pa hobby shops closed up, I could locally purchase some Mr. Surfacer which is what I used on some smaller 1/72 scale resin kits. However, I can’t get any of that stuff now that they’ve closed up.
What would you suggest for prepping the surface of a bigger resin kit? I’d like something that I can apply and then sand down to fill in those little holes and scratches as well as level off some very slight low spots. Back when I had the Mr. Surfacer, I could brush that on and then sand it down. It sure was nice to work with!
Is there something you’re recommend that I could find at a place like Home Depot or Lowe’s or an automotive supply shop?
Gap filling superglue is the only thing I’d use. Regular putties don’t seem to bite in or stick good to even cleaned resin. You’ll end up thinking you’ve filled the imperfection, only to get phantom pinholes show up later. Using superglue eliminates this problem. Oh, and Mr. Surfacer is widely available on the internet…
I love Tamiya spray primer but I was hoping to find something that was a wee bit thicker. That’s what I liked about Mr. Surfacer. I could brush it on as thinly or as thickly as I wanted it and then sand it down from there. It really did remind me of the consistency of Liquid Paper. I guess I could do the same thing with the Tamiya spray primer if I applied maybe 3-4 coats. I hadn’t thought of that before but I guess it’s something I could try.
I’ve used CA for filling in seams but I was really hoping there was something I could apply to the entire surface of the model (like back when I used to apply Mr. Surfacer with a brush) and then sand down. I can fill seams and pinholes with the CA but I don’t think I’d be able to apply it to the entire surface of the wing, as an example. I also never had to worry about Mr. Surfacer getting harder than the surrounding resin.
Yes, I could order Mr. Surfacer off the internet, and perhaps I should, but at the moment, I don’t feel like ordering a bottle of Mr. Surfacer and paying more in shipping than I am for the product.
But this is of no help to your looking for a big box store product or something other then internet purchase. (Plus I see it’s currently out of stock at my supplier which is a big help to you).
Just wanted to chime in and make you aware this product is available.
I finish resin figures, from 1/20 scale, to 1/8 and 1/6. I use Mr Surfacer, but I also use what I call my homemade Mr Surfacer, which is simply Squadron white putty dissolved in acetone. I apply it with an old paint brush. I can get it into pinholes easily enough, and since acetone is so volatile, it evaporates quickly and the mixture dries quickly. Then I can sand away the excess.
For larger gaps or seams, I recommend 2-part epoxy putties. I use Aves A & B.
If your only source is an automotive supply shop, then 2-part body putties are probably what you’ll find. If a hardware store is your source, then you should be able to find 2-part epoxy putties in the plumbing section. I think that’s pretty much what some of the putties sold today for sculpting and other scale modeling work were when they started out.
Tamiya also makes their surface primer in a jar. Seems similar to Mr. Surfacer. Also, nowhere have I seen shipping exceed the cost of a bottle of primer/ surfacer, or anything for that matter…
Thanks again for all the great tips, guys! I’ve always heard such good things about the two-part epoxy putties. I think I need to expand my modeling supplies to include that. The more I think about it, the more I think I just need to bite the bullet and order a bunch of stuff on-line and that includes the Gunze resin primer. Call me old fashioned but I’ve always enjoyed being able to handle the product rather than ordering it sight-unseen. I need to join the 21st century I guess.
Nathan, thank you for the info regarding the Tamiya primer in a jar! When I read that, it dawned on me that my local Hobby Town just might carry the stuff. If they do, that would be wonderful. I think I’m going to stop off there on my way home from work tonight. Except for their spray primer, I generally overlook the rack of Tamiya supplies since I generally don’t use their paints.
I’m also going to have to try the white putty in acetone trick. I really like using the white putty but I never thought of mixing it with acetone. That technique has me quite intrigued.
I use an automotive primer. I used to use Krylon, but they are getting rid of their primers. If there are flaws too deep for primer, I use automotive glazing putty (used to be called spot putty). Both can be found at auto parts stores. I wash resin before applying any finishing material with detergent and water.
Oh, now, I wouldn’t say that! [:)] I mentioned 2-part plumbing putties, which the old-timers were using back in the day. And Bondo and other automotive putties have been used for a long time, too. Pretty much because they’re available [;)]
I stumbled onto that through trial and error. I use Squadron putty on styrene, and I will apply it and use acetone as a thinner and to clean up any excess. The more I can remove before it sets, leaving it right where I want it, the less sanding later. I use methods: Apply the putty to the area, and then use a cotton swab soaked in acetone to wipe away the excess; or, I would put a blob of putty in the well of my ceramic palette-any non-reactive material will do–and then add acetone drop by drop with an eye dropper, and stir it with a toothpick, till it’s thoroughly mixed. Then I’d apply it to the area with a brush. From that second method, I just took another step to use an old paint jar (never through anything out!) to mix a bigger batch. I also found that while the acetone does evaporate, leaving the dried putty behind in the jar, I can “revive” with fresh solvent.
Anyway, I hope you find our tips helpful, and I look forward to seeing your build, whichever method you choose to use!