[#offtopic] Its Tenax… thank you very much! Jeez Ed, now you got everybody harrassing me…[#dots]
Oh, and I was aware you were keeping the 175, however, I was hoping the thought of a little bit of money might make you decide to give up a couple [:D] and Ed, no, I don’t clean them! I have so much paint built up inside my color cup that its going to take a torch and gasoline to get it out [;)]
I can’t play with you guys anymore, your to mean[:P] (J/K)
I really don’t know much about them, but here are a couple links that should be helpful
http://www.briansmodelcars.com/tutorials/tutorial.asp?TutorialID=65&CurPage=1
http://www.briansmodelcars.com/tutorials/tutorial.asp?TutorialID=23&CurPage=1
I hope those help, I prefer to just breath the fumes, it helps me deal with Ed a little easier [}:)]
Oh, when did ya switch from CA ta Tenex? was that after gluing a model to yer fingers & all?[;)] How’s that stuff work? Any good?
Yeah, a little bit after having an attack aircraft attatched to me, I figured it was time to switch! [:P] Ed, I really like the stuff, especially with the Touch N Flow! Just put a dab in the seam and squeeze it together for 15 seconds and your done. You even get a little bit of melted plastic sticking out of the seam, so on most occasions, you don’t have to use filler, just sand that down. Its worth the investment if your thinking about switching!
I’m considering it[:D] I’ve heard it’s good stuff & makes seams abit easier to deal with. especially them fuselage & B-17 wings…
Eddie - it really is that good (with the touch and flow gadget) … everything said before is true AND when gluing a wing on in most cases I have been able to get the wing flush up to the root with no gap… I just fold a piece of med-fine grit sandpaper in half to get in at where the plastic bubbled up and no seam!
What’s the going price for this? Can I pick it up at the LHS? I’m going to Reno on Friday & I’ll probably hit High Sierra Models while I’m there[:D] Thanks to espins1 who informed me it’s a decent shop awhile back. I agree and have been there several times already[swg] I don’t have a LHS here anymore & that’s the next best thing I can find at the moment[:-,] Also, gives me a good excuse to tag along when dad’s headed to Reno[}:)]
Ed, I think I paid around $7-8 for my Touch N Flow. Its just a small glass tube with a needle in the end, but it makes using the stuff so very much easier, and it will save you from ruining about a 1/4 bottle of Tenax, cause when you dip a brush in there, you get melted plastic in it from the brush, and that tends to dilute the glue. I would recommend it, I would also mention, get yourself some of the paint tubes, the ones that Testers sells with the mixing bottles, and use that to draw that glue into the TNF, cause I couldn’t hardly ever get it to go the right way! If you get one and you have any questions, just ask, I’m sure a lot of us can help you out! Good luck Ed!
I can’t believe I’m saying this Thanks eizzle[xx(][:O] I’ll see what my budget is when I get up there and leave the casino[8)] I did good last time I was there[:D]
I have some of those pipettes already & next time I go see the Doc w/ my g.f. I’ll try for some more[swg] The TNF sounds like it’s a good deal & has it’s uses but, doesn’t the Tenex clog it?
Eddie - the Tenax is about $5 to $6 a bottle here but it lasts a looong time. The glass tube applicator is about $5 here… .it’s really worth it for the above mentioned reasons… word of caution: never “push” the applicator across the plastic, always pull it toward you. It melts the plastic pretty fast and will clog the tip if you do that…
here’s a good guide on one way to apply it…
http://www.accurate-miniatures.com/builds/sbd/sbdbuild05.shtml
-=edit=-
just read anothe post ya made… if the plastic clogs the tip just sit the tip in the Tenax for a minute or so and BAM!!! it’s all dissolved… Tenax is like water… literally… it won’t clog the tip…
It won’t clog it Ed. The only thing thats going to clog it is getting melted plastic on the end of the needle, but that can be solved by a quick bath for the tip in the Tenax bottle. If/when you get it, you will be suprised, cause the way it works, but you are supposed to stick the tube in the glue and let it suck it up, now I figured that it would run out, or that I would have glue all over me from the tube being in the bottle, but the stuff doesn’t run out, and it evaporates FAST! Good luck at the casinos, and if you hit it big, don’t forget your buddies [:D]
Oh, and… [8)] your welcome [;)]
jinx… (double no take backs! [;)])
Very informative link Tom[tup] I’ve never used the TNF or Tenex but, from all I’ve heard, it’s the Bomb. I will see what I can do on getting it in Reno while I’m there. Gonna be a quick trip up & back as I’m going up to drive a car back with of all things…A Cat in a cage[B)]The Hotel don’t allow cats but, does have a Dog Kennel tho[:O]
Thanks for the run down Tom on this[:D]
[:-^]
Eddie - if nothing else, try a bottle of Ambroids pro-weld… about $3.95 here… works much the same way except you brush it on with a brush already supplied in the bottle. Not near as hot but will weld the pieces together. either solvent will allow you to go an inch or so at a time along a seam allowing you time to line it up before you glue… Tenax is better with the drawback of being a bit hotter and needing the glass applicator… Ambroids is not as hot but sometimes you won’t get the seam penetration that Tenax would… both work… both have good points and bad… both are head and tails above tube cement and some of the other liquid cements… these are actually plastic weld agents…
From airbrushes to Touch’n’Flow applicators in one easy lesson! [:O]
I could say [#offtopic] but what the heck? [;)]
"What’s a good partner to a Badger…"
Maybe a ferret, or a chinchilla?
[(-D]
Sorry, couldn’t help myself…
Wise guy huh?
While I am most certainly a guy, I cannot in good conscious make any claims to being wise. Wise-acre, perhaps! LOL
[swg]
Don’t ya just love it[;)]