This is so the job is done neatly without the glue becoming visible from the outside of the assembled model. Testor’s liquid cement must go on bare/unpainted plastic. It will summarily eat paint and dissolve it. The window frames will be painted around the edges on both the inside and outside so paint-eating liquid cement is not feasible here. Gorilla Glue is thick and goopy. It doesn’t eat paint but it hard to work with. I don’t want glue showing anywhere on the window glass or body. Is there a good video tutorial on this?
Ideally, I’d like a thin liquid adhesive that will stick to paint without harming the paint. One that can be neatly applied along edges of window panes without running or smearing.
Actually, I’m building the AMT Kenworth W-925 truck tractor kit. There are individual door windows, rear window and windshield window panes for the cab. These windows fit right against the window posts so there is not much surface overlap between the window glass and the window frame. Any adhesives used must not attack paint or clear plastic to damage it. They must not dissolve paint. They must be able to be appied very neatly without showing on clear plastic.
In this video, AUTOMOBILE window glass fits up under the body top in the form of a canopy so there is a lot of hidden overlapping surface to glue the window glass work inside the body.
Also, there a better adhesive than Krazy Glue, Testors Liquid Cement or Gorilla Glue for general plastic model assembly? I want a strong, non-goopy and neatly-applied adhesive that doesn’t harden too fast so parts can be perfectly positioned into place. Of course, it must adhere well to painted surfces and NOT DAMAGE PAINT.
Elmers white glue will dissolve in water. There will be times I will expose my models to distilled water as when cleaning dirty grime from them with a brush.
My model adhesives must:
-be neat
-be neatly applied
-be strong when cured
-not set too quickly like Krazy Glue
-not be upset by water or dampness when cured
-adhere to painted parts well but not harm paint
-adhere well to chromed parts
Another thing, Testors Liquid Cement doesn’t adhere well to chrome-plated parts like truck rims and tire rings.
True, white glue aka PVA glue, like Elmer’s is water-soluable, but getting a little water on it will not immediately dissolve the glue and destroy the bond. I would use white glue, if I were you.
I live in humid SW Oklahoma. I’ve used Elmer’s white glue on the feet of my animal figurines to anchor them down to a wooden painted 2x6 platform I made to set on my window sill. The figurines need to be anchored so the wind doesn’t blow them over while the window is open. It did not take long for dampness in the air to weaken the glue points so the figurines came loose in short order. I had to wash the glue off the animals feet and the board with water. It’s not too hard to dissolve. I’ve since used that blue putty stuff, Fun Tak by Loctite, to anchor my figurines. I put one tiny ball of this stuff under each animal’s foot or hoof and press each figurine down on the board into postion. Works like a charm and figurines are easy to remove this way too. No mess.
I use a small drop of silicone sealant to attach my sitting German shepherd dog figure to the deck of my R/C police boat. A small dab under the dog’s butt will do here. Good for this purpose. Waterproof for models in marine enviroments. Dried clear silicone caulking allows for removal of attached figures easily with dental floss and peels away easily and cleanly with fingers.
Clean-removing Fun Tak is very handy for our hobby too like holding model parts in place or small parts on sticks for painting. Fun Tak easy to remove cleanly from surfaces by rolling or pressing a ball of this stuff against any Fun Tak residue left on the surface.
