My second post for today. Don’t worry, I’m not on a binge.
I was just wondering: why do people put on clear coats? I understand that gloss and matte coats are for authenticity, but a clear coat doesn’t change the appearance in any way.
I don’t want to do something just because the guys on YouTube are doing it until I UNDERSTAND what the purpose is. Are clear coats to protect the paint from scratching off easily? Or do they make the paint easier to clean? Do they help if you’re going to paint another colour on top of them? Or all 3?
If a clear coat changed the apperance, it wouldn’t be a clear coat. But there are several reasons. Most paints are matt, so a clear gloss coat helps when adding the decals. A clear coat will also protect the paint when weathering if you use certain types of weathering products on certain paints. The final clear coat is to protect the paint and decals and give an overall finish.
To echo Mike, a clear gloss coat is very important as a base to put decals on without their “silvering”- little bubbles under it that make it look foggy. A gloss paint finish works as well, but most military models as matte or flat.
I weather models using highly diluted paints that are dissimilar to the surface I apply them to, in order to avoid disolving and ruining the painted finish.
My usual approach. Paint the model with whatever combination of paints I find useful. In many cases there could be metallic lacquer, acrylic colors and enamels all on the same model. Motorcycles come to mind.
Then I put a clear coat of gloss acrylic over. Apply decals.
Next I make a very dilute solution of artist oil paint suspended in odorless turpenoid and apply it. Wait a little bit and wipe of the excess, leaving it in the details and crevices.
Last, and this can be optional, I coat the whole thing with a matte clear to even out the finsh. Or if it’s a snazzy bike; another coat of clear acrylic.
Dilute washes don’t work well over matte paint as it stains quickly.
And, if I screw up the weathering, it’s not hard to wipe if off with a little turpenoid.
Clear coats are unnecessary for two reasons. One, they darken paint, especially flat color. Two, as far as decalling is concerned, they are redundant. Paint does not have to be glossy prior to decal application, it only has to be SMOOTH. Check out Paul Budzik’s Scale Model Workshop videos on YouTube for further information.
“Clear coats are unnecessary for two reasons. One, they darken paint, especially flat color”
A good argument for limiting the part of the model it’s applied to. Also, not if the application is controled. Skill requiered.
." Two, as far as decalling is concerned, they are redundant. Paint does not have to be glossy prior to decal application, it only has to be SMOOTH. Check out Paul Budzik’s Scale Model Workshop videos on YouTube for further information."
Sure, Paul is correct, but few modelers take the time to really prepare their coats correctly. Try it.
I don’t think the OP ever questioned if a clear coat was “necessary”. The question was why at all.
Plenty of good reasons there.
And I thought the hesitation about “the guys all over youtube” was kind of nice,
Don’t like it; don’t do it. But answer a question with advice.
Protect in what way? To protect the paint from being scratched off easily while working on the model, or to protect it from peeling away over the years?
Because if the only other reason is to prevent silvering of decals, and to protect the paint from weathering, I wouldn’t need to clear coat because:
a) I don’t have a problem with silvering so far (unless it happens after a year or so),
and b) I don’t do a lot of weathering because I do more shiny, brand-new models like Formula One and road cars.
Maybe I should rephrase my question: 1) how do I prevent the paint from scratching off while working on it? Add more layers of paint, or clear coat before glueing the piece, or both?
Also, 2) in the long run (let’s say a decade), will the paint remain as is if I don’t clear coat? And if I do clear coat, will that solve the problem?
The guy at my local model shop said by 10 years, even the decals with start coming off and there’s nothing you can do about it. His words: “Nothing is permanent.” I’m just looking for a second/third/fourth opinion. [:)]
When it comes to model building I do believe there are scratch gremlins out there that sneak out and scratch the paint when you aren’t looking. If the scratches are from your fingernails then get some thin cotton gloves to wear while you handle it and see if that helps.
The difference is sheen. Flat reflection scatters light in all directions and there will be no highlights. High gloss scatters more directionally, and especially there will be highlights from directions of light sources.
Glossing for decals has already been mentioned. Cars and civil aircraft usually have glossy finishes. For those, people have the choice of a gloss paint, or flat paint plus glosscoat. The result is not quite identical, but close enough for some people. The gloss coat gives a wet look, maybe not appropriate for older cars, but new cars are gloss coated at factory, and show rods and customs are usually gloss coated, so it is appropriate for them.
If applying a gloss clearcoat does not change sheen it is not being applied right (a thick coat is neccessary).
Both my You Tube modeling Gurus ( Paul Budzik and Will Pattison ) do not advocate the use of a clear coat in order to apply decals . I’ve had no trouble following their advice. Also in eliminating the decal clear coat I have one less chance of imparting goobers , an ongoing battle with me, to my paint.
I understand the need for gloss and matte coats. They add to the authenticity and detail of the model. It’s clear coats I don’t understand. If it’s just for non-silvering decals & protecting the paint from the weathering process, then I won’t need it because I don’t do a lot of weathering and my decals look fine.
If it’s for protecting paints from something beyond that (as someone earlier mentioned), then I’d like to know exactly what I’m applying it for. Protection in what way, exactly? [:)]
Pardon my ignorance but what’s a goober? I’m getting the definition “goof” on Google. Did you mean you have less chance of making a mistake if you eliminate a process to your model, such as clear coating?
Or is a goober something that’s got to do with the airbrushing process? [:)]
For me, I am using clear coat certainly in part to protect a very delicate paint finish. I can handle the model a little bit and the paint rubs away. Also the assitance with prevention of silvering on the decals will be helpful even if it is said as not required. With the delicate finish and the texture surface of the model I am trying to finish up, I don’t want to put any decal solution on the delicate paint under concern that it may ruin the finish.
After the decals are on, there will be a top coat to seal in the decals. As far as applied decals, they will scrach off with your fingernail etc. As to if they may sliver over time, I know of models I made as a kid I so often had the edges of the decal I guess “silver”. So much so I felt like if I wanted them correct I should cut down the decals before applying them. We are taking several decades ago, maybe decals are better today. Still the A10 I am building with marginal assistance from my son, the Decals do not look like they “belong” on the model correctly. They are high gloss this is a military plane, not a high gloss model. It will get a clear mat finish over the decals when complete. The matt or flat clear will “tie” the look together. It will assist in making the decals more durable. My son will not just let it sit on a shelf, it may not be a showroom grade build, but I want it to look as good as reasonble.
Ya the goobers or boogers in the paint are a pain. I am not good enough to stop them, I do my best to limit by fast drying of the paints and not leaving them out in the open while wet for dust to settle on them as easily. I think it helps a bit.
Well, for us mere mortals who are not super duper expert models, buillders, that are often necassacary. I use gloss paints, and i would rather add a clear coat to protect the paint and decals when useing oil washes. I have had a few get ruined when i have not gloss coated properly.
And as i do use gloss paint, how would an expert like your self suggest turning a nice glossy tank into one that is not all glossy.
I’m referring to something like Tamiya TS-13. It just says “clear” on the can. When I spray it, it doesn’t look like it changes the sheen in any way: neither to gloss, satin or matte.
So my understanding was it’s just a protection coat spray, not a ‘change sheen’ spray like gloss, matte and satin.
I could be wrong though. Maybe it is changing the sheen but I don’t see a difference. So I came to the conclusion that it’s just for protection.
My question, then, is: what protection is it offering? Scratch-protection? Decades-old peel protection? I see so many people on Youtube putting on what look like similar ‘neutral coats’ and I don’t know why they do it.
Ok, i have never heard of that. Not quite sure what purpose that would serve then other than to protect the paint/decals before weathering, depending on what type of paint it is.
I don’t see how that is possible. A clearcoat is what it is, and has to be matte or gloss or somewhere in between. It’s all about the surface texture. Smooth = gloss, rough = matte.
If there is a clear coat out there that maintains the underlying finish and only protects it, I want some.