I generally use Tamiya Extra Thin green cap
Sometimes Tamiya orange cap
And sometimes Gorilla Grip
I haven’t watched the video, but yeah, I use styrene cement to bond styrene to styrene. Tamiya’s Extra Thin, but also Testor’s in that oddly-shaped black bottle, and even Testor’s old-school tube glue. Styrene glue for styrene.
If I have to attach other materials to styrene, or to other materials, then I’ll use CA or even better, 2-part epoxy. And sometimes, white glue.
I use Testors liquid cement (black plastic bottle) and Tamiya Thin Cement for styrene. I use Testors Clear Parts Cement for gluing clear plastic to styrene. CA is used to glue PE to plastic and finally I use Gators Grip Hobby Glue for gluing fabric to plastic.
I like the Tamiya cements. Way better than testors…
Didn’t want to watch the video and waste my time. Far too many YouTube videos out there regarding what glue is best. Basically, it’s a matter of preference.
I use:
Tamiya Extra Thin Liquid glue
10 Second Liquid glue (Perfect Putty brand) - This is by far THE best liquid glue out there. Better than Tamiya liquid glue.
Testors tube glue (still use it after 50 plus years LOL!)
Gorilla Super Glue (blue cap) I use this more than those hobby thin, medium and thick CA glues. Cheaper, dries faster, and lasts a long time. No accelerator needed.
White Canopy glue for clear styrene
Tamiya Green Cap for all styrene joints that can easily be reached with the brush after being put together.
Tamiya Orange Cap for all styrene joints that must have glue applied before going together.
Gorilla Blue Cap CA for metal to plastic bond where there is very little surface area to bond to (such as edge-mounted PE parts and wire) and you can’t easily stabilize the joint.
Bondic UV curing glue for the same purpose as Gorilla Blue Cap CA, but in situations where the joint can be easily stabilized before hitting it with the UV light. It cures completely transparent, which gives it a big advantage over CA.
Pledge Floor Care for smaller PE parts that essentially lay flat, such as seat belts and instrument panel overlays. No other glue matches it for transparency. Put your clear coat of choice on afterward and it will look like it was built with the part it was attached to. It is also fantastic for attaching HUD glass to HUD frames…keeps that perfect, distortion-free transparency.
Devcon 2-Ton Epoxy for attaching clear parts or attaching things such as canopy frames to canopies. Unmatched transparency when compared to other, traditional canopy “white” glues, and it makes a stronger, more permanent bond. Also makes great lenses for aircraft lights and weapons sensors. As far as fogging and fume fears that a lot of people have about epoxy, when attaching clear parts or making lenses, you’re using such a tiny volume of epoxy that there isn’t any significant exothermic reaction…that only happens with larger volumes of resin and hardener. It is 100% safe in these tiny amounts. I also use it for attaching larger PE parts with larger surface area, as well as it being my go-to for attaching Quinta Studio 3D-printed decals.
Apoxie Clay has come in handy recently as an adhesive/filler for attaching large resin parts to styrene where the mating surfaces aren’t quite perfectly matched. Any excess that gets where you don’t want it can easily be removed with a damp Q-Tip prior to curing. When it cures, it creates an extremely strong bond that resists shearing and cracking.
WHEW! Hopefully I didn’t miss anything. [8-|]
Yeah, neither did I. Nothing against the OP, his channel or content. It’s a personal preference. I’d rather read the content, than watch a video.
Probably a generational thing, too. I imagine that many folks younger than I would rather watch a video. I’d still rather look for printed content and read it.
And there’s a technical component, too: I don’t access the Internet at my bench, whether by laptop or mobile. I still have a hard connection, haven’t had a pressing need to install a wireless router. And I don’t use my mobile for streaming any content, haven’t had the need.
Didn’t watch his video,but I have found YouTube videos very helpful to visualize small jobs and DYI projects around the house,the wife is always referring to it for how to videos for her sewing and crocheting,they do have their place.
I use Tamiya extra thin and extra thin quick set mainly.
No one has yet answered the Fortunes of War question. I assume it is a video game?
I think the answer to the question is quite easy. Which ever glue you prefer.
I don’t watch youtube modelling videos either, but i am guessiong that FoW is not actually asking a qustion but rather comparing a range of glues and coming up with what he thinks is the best. But IMHO, these things are a bit pointless. It is all down to preferance and also what we have access to. I use EMA Plastic weld, a UK brand which i imagine is not avaliable in the states.
Not a video game.
So are all of the plastics considered styrene? If not what are the WW1 aircraft models made of,…such as Revell etc?
You’ll find virtually all of the big model companies mold their kits in styrene.
Some parts in some kits, like tires and tracks are made of a soft, flexible plastic. Those generally don’t accept the styrene glues.
Some special, short run (production) kits are resin and metal. Those need CA or epoxy.