What colors will make Green Zinc Chromate?

Just started my F-106 and only color I do not have is GZC. Before I get to far into the build, I would like to know what colors I can use to mix GZC myself?

Any help here would be very appreciated! Thanks in advance.

Air Master

I have no clue what colors to mix but most paint manufactres has GZC. I use Model Master Acryls and their GZC is very nice.

Every paint line, with the exception of Tamiya, has GZC. Sometimes refered to as 'cockpit green" by some though. Model Master makes a seperate paint called zinc chromate. It’s green and is very very close to their cockpit green. Just a touch shade lighter is the diffrence to my eye.

Any “true” green–that is, brighter than the brownish olive shades–and yellow should give you a good start. Find a good photo as a guide, mix small amounts to figure out the desired proportions for the hue you like, then mix a bigger batch. As colors go, it’s a pretty simple mix.

Good luck.

According the the article below, there are actually several shades of
chromate green that can be accurate. In fact, the color of green often
depends on the substrate material. For example, chromate paint might
look green on aluminum, but yellow if painted on a white surface.

This is a great article:
http://ipmsstockholm.org/magazine/2004/01/stuff_eng_interior_colours_us.htm

Try 70% Tamiya XF-4 yellow and 30% Tamiya XF-1 flat black. Adjust to taste.

hkshooter has it right, a mixture of yellow and black, adjusted to suit will get you chromate green - will work with either acrylics or enamels. I first tried it back in the late fifties, early sixties when flat enamel paints became regularly available.

Thanks Guys! I tested this with one part black and two parts yellow and this gave me a pretty good shade of chromate green.

Thanks for the help!

Air Master

Hey, just wanted to add some clarification to this. There are actually several colors of zinc chromate paint, I am familiar with four.

The two most common ones are green and yellow with which most people are familiar. One of these two are usually used as a primer coat (yellow being far more common in my experience). I have only seen the green used on factory made parts. The yellow is commonly available for maintainers and since you can get it as an aerosol, it is the primer of choice whenever it is an option at unit level maintenance.

There is also a green zinc that is close enough to OD (maybe slightly greener) to use that color for it. I have seen this used in depot level maintenance in place of the usual green zinc chromate on some small items.

The fourth color I have seen is a yellow/green finish used on interrior structure. I believe that this may be a heat cured finish applied at the factory during aircraft assembly as I have not encountered this color on any replacement parts. This is a slightly rough, glossy finish that appears to be thin yellow zinc over green zinc. Although this finish was not used during WWII, I thought it may be useful info for other subjects.

If the material is affecting the color of the zinc, it really hasn’t been applied properly. In most cases, the color of the primer is a property of the primer its self. Take this information with a small grain of salt, I work with modern aircraft, there may be some change in the colors and techniques over the years but the principles of application are essentially the same as the goal (preventing corrosion) is still the same.

All of this being said, if having fun building a model means absolute accuracy for you just research your subject and find out which color is appropriate for the location. If fun to you is to make it look right to your eye, then either green or yellow will do just fine.

I hope that this is of some help to someone out there.

Mac

The correct color for the F-106’s is FS-34151 (or A/N 611) Interior Green, Testors MM (#1715), MM Acrylic (#4736), Polly Scale ( FLO505096), Gunze (#058)are the prefect matches, there are other colors called Zinc Chromate but they are not the correct color the US Military went with a modified version of the A/N standards but after WWII & during Vietnam War the US changed the name of the A/N to FS (Federal Standard) and this standard went deeper then the A/N Standards by breaking down the colors sheen, then by color, and then by darkness. Also I do beleave GZC does make an Interior Green color so you don’t need to mix colors and if push come to shove the I’d use Meduim Green (FS 34127) and lighten it up with a couple of drops of white to get your Interior Green

I tasted it and found it needs a bit of ketchup.[:D]

I have a bottle here lablled “zinc chromate” with an ominously bright yellow color…

is zinc chromate supposed to be green? BTW, I am not colorblind

Jin, There are four kinds of zinc chromate. The two I know of are ZC Yellow and ZC Green, the yellow version was used mainly for the inside airframe structures while green was used on wheel wells and sometimes cockpit interiors. Hope this clears up your confusion.

Air Master

Zinc chromate is a chemical added to a primer to create Zinc Chromate Primer. The most basic form is a blued “clear” color. You will notice lots of chemically protected hardware, such as bolts and cap screws, are a metallic yellow color. That is a Zinc Chromate coating. Yellow is a weaker protective coating, starting with a “clear” moving light to dark through the color spectrum to black. The primer “paints” follow yellow through something slightly darker that Dark Green XF-61. It is a very thin and effective primer for Aluminum, usually the dark colors are exposed without paint on top.

You guys are wayyyyyyyyyyyyyyy too technical, especially for this time of year. All you have to do is wait until you catch a really, really bad cold (spending a lot of time among school-aged children will speed up this process), plug one nostril and violently exhale with the other. Viola! the purest, most natural shade of chromate green you could want …

Hmmmm [#dots], I dont think Snot Chromate Green is covered under the Federal Standard guide as it tends to look rough and crusty after it’s dried. This would cause some problems for accuracy the rivet counters would surely catch and flog us for not using the correct shade. [(-D]

ROFLMBO!!!

Air Master

You have to hit it with three light coats of Future right away.

;

ROFLMBO[(-D]!!!

Good one Mortar!![tup]

Air Master