Dose anybody or help what the best putty filler too use?
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I’ve used Perfect Plastic Putty for the last several years. Just recently I picked up Tamiya white putty and used it for the first time yesterday, it seems like a good product. But sprue goo (melting small bits from a kit’s sprue into Tamiya extra thin liquid cement) is also a great alternative - https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PGYY7bTfFIE
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Thank u , I’ll try sprue trick I heard about but wasn’t sure .
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Im interested in the plastic putty.
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I like perfect plastic putty as well. I put it on the gap and wipe of the excess with a damp cloth.
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The only one I’ve used is Vallejo Plastic Putty PN 70.401. It works well for filling seam lines, and is water soluble. If there’s a larger gap, you may want something thicker. I haven’t tried sprue goo, but have heard of it. I’ve also heard of using CA glue and NaHCO3, but haven’t personally tried it.
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Auto body glaze putty for the major fills and Mr. Surfacer 500 for the final.
The spot putty/glaze is a lacquer-based putty that sticks to everything and if you cut up completed kits boxes into 1/4" X 2" strips you have a cheaper putty by volume and free applicaters. I cut up the old empty kit boxes an save the strips as I need them. Use once and toss them
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I’ve used the ol Squadron putty earlier on in the hobby but have since been using Tamiya’s putty.
I like the Tamiya putty more so as it is easy to work with and if you have any excess putty, you can use rubbing alcohol to remove it. You can also use the rubbing alcohol to smooth out the putty as well.
Probably for the last 10 years or so, I’ve been making my own plastic putty.
The main source is Styrene Tack-It II and scrap plastic from the sprue tree.
The consistency needs to be like pudding or a little bit softer.
Place it in the area that needs to be filled and let it sit for like an hour or so.
Then sand it till its smooth and repeat if need be.
Between the Tamiya putty and my home brewed putty, I think its going on 20ish years now.
Hope this helps or at least shed some light.
Happy Modeling,
Mike
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There will be almost as many answers as modelers.
I used to use Squadron white, till I used up the tube I had. By that time, the formula had changed, and I switched to Tamiya. I used acetone to smooth both putties, or to make a homemade Mr Surfacer.
I have Perfect Plastic Putty, but I don’t like it as well. It can be reactivated too easily by contact with water.
For large seams or gaps, apart from filling with styrene scrap or sprue and liquid styrene cement, I will use 2-part epoxy putty. I use Aves (“ay-VEEZ”) Apoxie Sculpt, aka Aves A&B. I use it for sculpting, so I have it on hand.
Best regards,
Brad
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I don’t think there is a perfect putty for all applications. I use Mr Dissolved Putty on most of my seams and Squadron/Tamiya if I have a large gap to fill.
I have had mixed results with the Vallejo Plastic Putty.
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Personally, I like AK Interactive or AMMO MiG Jimenez products. They are both ideal for filling gaps or to refine some surfaces. They can both be easily sanded when fully dry and can even be “wetted” to make them smoother. They both come in dispenser tubes and a small amount goes indeed a long way. They both can be cleaned with water.
And here they are:
AK Interactive White Putty
AK Interactive Grey Putty
AK Interactive Green Putty
And AMMO MiG Arming Putty:
AMMO MiG also sells special Putty Bottles with a tiny brush applicator for those refined and difficult zones to reach on your models.
They come in three specific density gradations, thin, medium and thick, depending on what you have to patch up or how you want to finish your model.
And here they are:
Did I forget to mention? They are all acrylic based and are harmless to your health.
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Tamiya white putty, Mr. putty, and Bondo spot putty. Tamiya putty can be worked down with a dampened Q-tip of Tamiya Lacquer thinner. I like using Mr. Putty for the wing roots. I apply with a toothpick, then damping the end of Q-tip with a bit of saliva, and wipe the excess off. Works really good. Bondo spot putty is great for the really small imperfections.
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I just use autobody glaze putty for the big gaps and Mr. Surfacer 500 as a final finish coating, then wet sanding.
I wet block sand with 600 grit to start, to show where the putty needs to be applied. Then only wet block sand with 1000 grit lightly and then dry it off and look closly at the filler to insure you haven’t been to agressive.
It takes patience and attention to detail but it does pay off well.
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UPOL UP0294 from the auto parts shop for general purpose seam and scratch filler. It’s air dry/cure so don’t use it for large deep filling and modeling.
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Started out with Testors Contour Putty. Don’t bother with it-I had bought it not knowing what was out there or having read anything about it. It was money I’d have rather spent on something else. Have been using Tamiya Putty White with good results but it does shrink a little bit so I need to remember that when I put it in. Recently picked up some Mr. White Putty, and I kind of like it. Seems a bit easier to smooth out than the Tamiya putty-but I like them both. And Sprue Goo is something I read about on this forum and have tried it a few times. It is ok but I am not sure I have the Tamiya glue to plastic ratio correct as mine seems quite stringy when I apply it-kind of like the Testor’s cement did when I was younger. I like the fact that what it leaves behind is pretty much the same plastic the model is made of, so I am not giving up on it yet.
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