Have been out of the saddle for a while and wanted to pick a quick project so I could actually complete something. I picked the 1:48 Tamiya FW-190A3. Far from my best effort but it feels good to get something close to done. I should add some more mottling and the canopy and windscreen haven’t been glued on yet.
I was just starting a pin wash but haven’t been happy with the results on my last few models. I know there are some premixed washes on the market now and was wondering what everyone is using these days.
If that’s far from your best, I give up! Looks great from this angle.
I’ve used the citadel and it dries really quickly, so I personally have to work in small sections. I’ve also had a little more success with thinned oils as they seem to be more forgiving and they give you time to actually make some progress before you have to come back and start wiping up.
Awesome work Mike. I second Gary’s suggestion. I use the Flory on all of my panel lines now. Slop it on, let it dry, then wipe it off with a slightly damp paper towel . It does a nice job bringing out all of the other details too, such as rivets. I mix the Dark Dirt and Black to varing degrees. You can get it at Sprue Brothers.
If you do want to make your own, it has to be very thin. If you are trying washes in panel lines, go very easy. It is too easy to overdo black or super dark panel lines.
Thanks guys! I’ve been using oils but I just can’t seem to get the mix right, either too thin or too thick. Will get the Flory wash ordered and see how I like that.
Here’s another pic but it’s a bit washed out from the bright sunlight. I think I’ll add some more mottling. Everything was done freehand with the airbrush except for the hard edge on the wings and horizontal stabilizer. For that I cut masks from blue painters tape.
Will post more pics when I get it washed and add some silver chipping in wear areas and a little exhaust staining.
Thanks Buck. I may just get a couple of bottles to try it out. I got a couple of bottles of Vallejo wash but don’t like how it behaves so I keep using my thinner and oil paint mix.
Also, I should have recommended checking out a couple of other forums that often have “washes” threads, the Techniques and the Painting and Airbrushing forums.
These are in the Tools, Techniques and Reference Materials area, the last area in the forums list.
I’ve been using odorless turpentine and artist oils. Black and burnt umber. I mix one bottle black to the look of coffee and the other bottle with burnt umber and small amount of black for a more dirt like affect. Again, it is as thin as coffee. Using a fine brush I dot it where I want it and use the turpentine with a Qtip to remove the areas I don’t want after it has dried. Then seal it with my final coat. I am curious about the products listed above and may give them a try, but I am happy with my oil so far. The great thing about it is if you make a mistake or don’t like it you can completely remove it and start over with no harm to the paint or decals.
If the paint is acrylic no, if it’s enamel or Lacquer yes. Regular thinner will dissolve Alclad or any solvent type base coat unless you top coated with an acrylic barrier coat.
You can get away at very light washes without disturbing the finish but why risk it?
Same method I use and works every time. I have to mention that I do not use all those expensive products featured in the video. I use regular turpentine from Home Depot and a set of Reeves artists oils from Hobby Lobby that was about $11 for 24 small tubes.
