Washes that don't attack enamel paint

I paint my models primarily with enamels because I like them. I’ve had some bad experiences where I painted the model, it looked terrific, and then when I applied a turpentine-based wash it attacked the enamel paint underneath.

Is there a method of applying wash that works safely 100% of the time?

Can I use acrylics mixed with water for a wash?

You can use Acrylics for washes, not sure howyou would make them. Have you considered a clear coat to protect the enamel,such as future or Alclad Aqua gloss.

Yes I do use Future acrylic clear coat. Is it resistant to mineral spirits ?

Yep. I use White Spirits (same thing) for my oil washes and as long as the clear coat is done right, it will be fine. I apply 2 or 3 light coats to be sure.

Absolutely acrylics can be mixed with water to make a wash. In your example of an enamel base coat, using an acrylic wash is probably the best and easiest thing to do.

I use water and either craft store acrylics, or some of my Andrea or Vallejo paints, to make washes for weathering. I use isopropyl, too, for washes.

It’s a good idea to do as the others have suggested and seal the base coats, before applying a wash. Even in the case of a water-based wash over an enamel coat, it can’t hurt to seal the enamels. My sequence usually runs to primer, then color coats, then a gloss coat for decals (I use Future), then a matte coat (I use DullCote), and then weathering, including washes, and then a final sealer coat as necessary.

Hope that helps!

Best regards,
Brad

Indeed, acrylic washes are the way to go. Easy to clean up without damaging the underlying paint.

Oil washes are easy as well and will somewhat buff off or rub into the paint.

Some fabulous effects can be made with both with some experemtation.

Go and have fun. :slight_smile:

I exclusively use enamels on my models and make my own solvent type washes with artist oils and Testors enamel thinner. As a barrier I use Future, Alclad Aquagloss, and MM clear Flat Acrylic depending on the weathering technique.

Future or Aquagloss are great to use when there are sharp details to capture such as panel lines, louvers, grills, bolts etc. The clear acrylic gloss will have the wash settle around these details to pop them. If done over a flat finish, the wash will usually bleed away from the details as the flat finish will act as a whick.

For filters I like doing them over a flat clear acrylic surface because they have superior blending qualities than a gloss coat.

I have used acrylic washes and have worked sort of ok but I like the solvent type better cause they flow better and don’t dry so fast as acrylics, giving you time to fine tune things.

This came up very recently in another thread…

Fermis, your post reminds me once again how this forum could really use a “like” feature!

If it had the “like” feature…I would “like” you post!!![proplr]

[t$t]