I usually build armor and sci-fi kits with the odd U-boat thrown in.I’m looking to do something different.I intend to pick up a few vinyl batman kits but have no experience with this medium.
What type of paints do I use and what are the recommended brands?
What type of adhesive works on vinyl?
If I prime the kit,what do I use?
I am totally clueless.
Thanks
Ed
i can tell you a couple of things. Need to use Acrylic paints. Tamiya, or even any fantasy minis brands should work fine, even craft store paints. Need to use Super Glue or specialize vinyl glues. I am pretty sure you can use lacquer primer such as auto primer paint. Hope this helps
It definately helps.I now know 1000% more about building vinyl kits than I did two minutes ago![:)]
This link should help. And it’s about building a Batman kit as well.
You don’t need to use acrylics, but if you don’t, you’ll definitely need to base in acrylics because oil based and enamel paints will react with the vinyl and not cure correctly.
I painted a 1:1 scale, Alien 3 dog burster in oils with no problems, but I base coated in a tan tone, mixed in Vellejo acrylics (the best figure painting acrylics on the market IMO) and then layed in my oil color coats and blended them. The blood is Testors acrylic gloss red, layed in after the oils had dried for a few days.
Here’s a shot of the underside.
Here is a link for an old website call “Gremlins in the Garage”. The site is pretty quite these day, but it still has how to articles. http://www.gremlins.com/denis_bohm/getting_started.html I also suggest a couple of magazine along this side of the hobby. One is “Amazing Figure Modeler” the other is “Kitbuilders”. Both are great magazines and provide very good info and how to articles. http://www.amazingmodeler.com/ http://www.kitbuildersmagazine.com/ Good luck Rogue
TD 4438
The way to work with vynil to remove the pour slugs is to gently (GENTLY dammit! 
) heat with a hair dryer on low setting or hot water and immediatly use a new knife blade to cut away the excess. Be careful that the knifedoest not go out of control, it can easily slice into the part which is harder to repair.
Fill the legs with BBS and seal with glue, otherwise these kits are very topheavy and will not stand on their own very well. Epoxy a stiff wire rod into the feet and mount this onto a work base such a a block of wood, and then use a craft store base for display later on. Makes life much easier. I use 30 minute epoxy, epoxy paste ribbon and thick superglue mixed with baking soda for bonding my figures up.
I have not built this kit so I dont know how it is engineered but the GEOMetric Vinyls have upper/lower torso halves that split ont he beltline, and the arms attach at the shoulder. You may be able to heat the shoulder very genlty and pop the arm into the socket and touch up any paint.
I use a basecoat of Lacquer based primer such as duplicolor with any paint over the top of that. I painted my Gowron in oils and typical enamles, over the lacquer primer.
Also, yoiu can replace things such as buttons that arent up to snuff with straight pins, simply carve off the button , drill a hole and insert the pin shank.
Bad seams can be filled with milliput white, or with MagiSculp ( my new favorite!) and feathered out.
HTH…you will like vinyls once you get used to them!
David
The only thing I could add: I have found the only thing that super glue bonds faster than human skin is vinyl!! I built the Horizon T2 Terminator Skeleton kit as my first vinyl kit. It comes with a stand as there is no room to pour anything for weight into the legs. Other than that it was pretty easy to do. I even sprayed Testor’s metalizers on it with no adverse reaction.
Don