Always loved the Ontos. I have to get those detail sets!
Gino, please take a look at the location of part B34 and B33 in steps 1 and 2 of the assembly instructions:
https://www.scalemates.com/products/img/3/9/7/129397-11-instructions.pdf
If the location of these two parts are lowered on the hull I believe it would have the effect of raising the front end giving the model the correct profile.
Steven Zaloga’s overlay shows the distance between the wheels get progressively shorter on the model compared to the Ordnance Tank Automtive Command plans. I don’t think there is anything I can do about that without relocating the rest of the axel locations. What do you think
Harold
Maybe, I’m not sure. I would think you have to lower the whole front roadwheel arm (B42, B43) location to raise the front end. It also needs to come forward, as do the 2nd and 3rd roadwheel. Then adjust the position of each of the subsequent road wheel arms as well. Like I said, it isn’t as easy as it looks. That is why I left mine as is. As Zaloga says, “the kit looks like an Ontos,” when done.
Today I received the two upgrade kits I’ve been waiting for to start this project. Most notable is the Voyager Model kit #PE35370 which traveled 8,000 miles from a place near Alice Springs, Australia. I attempted to purchase this kit from a source in China but was unsuccessful.
I tested the paint selections on plastic spoons and decided to use Vallejo #74.601 Grey Surface Primer, Vallejo #71.013 Yellow Olive for an exterior finish which matches FS34052 USMC Green. Vallejo #71.001 White for an interior base coat and clear coat the exterior with Vallejo #70.520 Matt Varnish and Vallejo #70.522 Satin Varnish for the interior.
I also purchased a photo-etch bending tool from The Small Shop to improve the quality of forming PE parts on this project. And again, I plan to use my Iwata RG-3L-3 spray gun for most of the painting and my air brush where I need too.
The first step is to decide if I want to modify the suspension which is known to be problem. As Gino pointed out it is a lot of work and without modification the finished model still looks like an ONTOS.
Harold
Completed steps 1 through 4 plus 12 that allowed me to see if adjustments I made to the suspension gave the model the correct ‘nose-up’ profile. What do you think?
I decided not to try and correct the wheel spacing because it would require major changes, but rather concentrate on getting the front of the model to look less squashed.
Harold
Looks much better. Good job so far. The second and third road wheel look a little high now. They look to be floating above the lower track.
Gino, you have very good eyes, I didn’t know if anyone would notice. The second set of road wheels are definitely floating about 2 mm above the lower part of the track and the third set of wheels are just touching the track. However, now I know what to do, but it’s to late on this model. I’m hoping when this model is painted in USMC Green the wheels will be dark enough you won’t notice the issue.
The adjustment I made is where the suspension arms connect to the hull. I noticed there was some play in the way the parts fit together, so I modified the arm where it fits into the hull to allow downward rotation about 3 to 5 mm which raised the hull just enough to give the model a typical ONTOS profile. If I built another M50A1 I would be more careful that each set of wheels touch the track.
Harold
You could put it on a terrain base. I think that and so figs around it would suit it well, sort of a crew served artillery piece.
You did a nice job on it so far.
Very good idea GMorrison and thank you for the kind words. I’m building this for a friend who was a Captain in the Marine Corps in charge of six ONTOS during the Vietnam War. I can have a nice wood base with a little ground cover and a plaque with his Unit information and Logo.
Hi sarge,
Coming on well this. I would put some dirt etc under the tracks and lift them so they fit the wheels and make it look like the suspension is doing stuff!
Looking forwards to seeing the green on it. You could take the greens to your friend and see what he says about the various shades before painting. Maybe he has some photos?
Thank you James, I agree my friend should remember the color and even if he didn’t I’m blessed with ten other Marines at my American Legion Post who would. I say blessed because these Marines are a rowdy bunch of old guys who keep everyone entertained with their stories.
Your plan will really make an impression.
Thank you and your compadres for your service. I was about 5 years behind you all, headed for college as a good bit of luck, and didn’t get drafted.
I’d build up the base with a couple of layers of Bondo. On too thick and it cracks, but that might not be a bad thing. Then go to town on the pink color with sloshy washes of black.
Getting Vietnam guys is hard if they are tankers or artillery. Speaking of whom, Gino will know way more, but my best source so far is the Tamiya mortar crew, who are probably more early sixties Europe. Leather boots, army, not marines.
Vietnam vegetation is even harder. Probably worth avoiding here.
Thank you GMorrison.
I completed step 5 and part of step 6 and step 8 of the assembly instructions. From here on steps 6 through 12 will involve substituting some exterior parts for photo-etched or machined parts on the upper hull and turret. Before I can glue the upper hull to the lower hull I need to assemble and paint the interior. The interior parts are Verlinden Productions resin kit #2623.
Today I was looking for information regarding the ONTOS interior and found a collection of ONTOS pictures, drawings and illustrations on Pinterest: https://pin.it/gdCTXEq
Surviving ONTOS: http://mcvthf.org/Veh/Surviving_M50_Ontos.pdf
Marine Corps Vietnam Tankers Historical Foundation: https://mcvthf.org/Veh/M50A1_Ontos.html
Harold
I have completed the lower hull interior assembly of the Verlinden Productions kit. There were a couple of issues mainly due to poor quality photographs in the kit. However, the parts are well fabricated and only require the usual clean up associated with a resin kit.
Because of the lack of instructions I’m thankful for the pictures that Stikpusher posted and the information I found online, without which it would be very difficult to determine where certain items were located inside the ONTOS.
One thing I would caution anyone planning to use this Verlinden kit is to make sure the driver and gunner seats line up with their respective hatche openings. There are no instructions or marks on the deck to use as a reference.
I also found the shell storage rack to be a little confusing, but here again I had photographs and drawings to guide me. It appears that one shell is not placed in the rack correctly, but that is done for a reason. The engine bulkhead in front of the gunner seat is protruding out where it connects with the starboard bulkhead limiting space available for the top right shell in the rack. The shell rack is also designed to fold back against the starboard bulkhead when not in use as illustrated in the drawing below.
The forward stanchion on the port side next to the drivers seat should be in front of the seat instead of at the back, but that is a minor issue. The port bulkhead also has some thickness issues as you can see in the plan view photograph, but rather than try to remove material on the back of the bulkhead I modified a few small features on the deck to make it fit.
Harold
Completed the interior assembly and started on exterior hull assembly. Ready to begin painting the interior next. I will tape off areas needed to glue the upper and lower hulls and give the interior a coat of Vallejo #74.601 Grey Surface Primer. This will include all the Verlinden interior parts plus the inside surface of the of the upper and lower hulls. After that a coat of Vallejo White #71.001 for the interior. Then detail the gauges, controls, seats, and other interior features.
Started using the The Small Shop photo etch bending tool; however, it was not required for the gas can holder. The quality of Voyager Model kit parts appear to be extraordinary. The tie-down for the gas can as an example is unbelievably detailed right down to tiny holes in the strap for the buckle.
Harold
Whoops, looks like I missed a few posts… The Verlindin detail does look really good, nice work on getting it all assembled and in there!
Thank you Gamera, it really tested my ability. I found issues with the way some Verlinden parts fit into the Academy model and had to improvise to make them work together. The photographs helped more than anything. I don’t want to be critical of Verlinden, because my inexperience has a lot to do with the problems I encountered with this kit.
Harold
I completed some of the upper hull photo-etch parts assembly and gave the interior a coat of grey surface primer. I’ll give the primer 24 hours to dry and then apply a base coat of Vallejo #71.001 White on the interior. The Small Shop photo etch bending tool was a real joy to use while forming the tool rack for the outside of the upper hull. As you can see below the rack is flat on my vice and square with all angles formed at 90 degrees.
It is coming along nicely. The Verlinden interior and PE really add to it. Keep up the great work.
Thank you Gino, I appreciate your encouragement.