Using liquid cement. Help/advice needed.

I am a noobee with a couple of kits completed.At first i was using tube cement Then found the plastic bottle with thin metal nozzle which really helped.Now i have found liquid cement which i use a very small paint brush to apply.

I am ok using the liquid on large seams especially when i can apply from behind BUT i am not sure on small parts.

Example,If iam going to mount a headlight guard or wing mirror arm is it ok to apply the liquid when the art is in situ.I do not apply enogh to mar the part but i do notice that a small mark is left,will this show under paint.

Example,I have a hard time with moulded straps on fuel drums.I can never clean them up good enough.I read you can remove them and replace with palstic card strips.How would i glue here.Use tube to glue all strap area touching drum OR situ strap and use liquid on edges only.

Example,I have wanted to glue a plastic card piece 10mm x 10mm to a flat hull piece.I need all the piece to adhere.Would i need to use tube glue.When i try and use liquid but the time the liquid was applied to the area it had dried before piece was situ`ed.

Sorry for the basic Q`s

On small parts I somtimes prime both pcs w/ liquid, line them up and apply a bit more to stick them together. A little OOOO steel wool cleans up any marring too obvious for paint to hide.

Also, get rid of the bottle’s brush and buy some dedicated glue brushes, 0-size tips… Don’t worry about cleaning them, the glue will evaporate. When using the stuff, it’s best to place the part in its desired location and touch you cement-filled brush to its edge… Capillary action will carry it arond the joints…

i use nothing but liquid cement (ambroid proweld). the cement dries and even though it “shows” its so thin that it doesnt affect the paint (wont show up…even with multiple layers). [:D]

I used to worry about that “mark” as well, I’d spend the time with an extra fine sanding stick to try and get rid of it… in the end it doesn’t matter- it wont show through the paint.

Here is an exception- if the spot was touched. Because the cement actually melts the plastic, if the area is touched it may leave a little more of a mark. If not touched then it is really just discolored.

Use a polishing stick to clean up those surface blemishes left by the solvent…after it dries!

the more i reread what i wrote the more i think it could be mistaken…the glue doesnt show through the paint even with multiple layers.

No matter how careful you are you’ll always get excess glue on parts from time to time.

Grab a tissue or piece of kitchen towel, roll it into a point and dip it in the glue. Slurp, it will suck up all the excess. This is also handy if you want to glue a small part after it’s fitted. Fit the part, add some glue and suck up any unwanted.

I use Tamiya Liquid cement or the Ambroid. It works great, helps fill small seams and gives and over all stronge bond as you are essentially fusing the styrene.

I clean up any excess with a green scotch brite pad. Takes the dryed excess off in a few swipes. I also give the whole model a once over with the scotch brite before paint and detail parts. It gives a nice scuff to the surface for the paint to grab onto.