Trying AK interactive for the first time

Tools, Techniques, and Reference Materials Painting and airbrushing
1

I’m going to try AK in the airbrush, just for something different. Do I need to get set up ahead of time with thinner and/ or retarder etc.?

I’d be interested, as I have no familiarity with the product.

2

I recently used it for the first time as well, both the chrome and the duraluminum. Exceptionally pleased with the results!

Mine were thin as lighter fluid right out of the jar, so no need of thinning. I didn’t spray very large areas…or for very long, time-wise…but I can’t think retarder would be necessary in any but the most extreme circumstances. (Spraying with a Badger 155 at fairly low pressure, since it was so thin.)

Cleanup was easy with everyday ‘bulk’ paint-store thinner.

Hope that helps!

[BTW, the duraluminum shade looks perfect for the Ford Trimotor I have moving toward the top of the ‘to do’ list!]

3

Thank you Greg. I’ve already primed with Tamiya spray so I hope they don’t attack each other. Primer is well cured. Will test of course.

4

Forgot to mention that part. Mine was over Tamiya TS-26 Pure White spray–no separate primer, since that was on the body already–and it worked great.

I should add that I’m among the luddites who has yet to try Alclad…but the AK was by far the best metallic finish I’ve used, to date.[Y]

5

OK then!

I picked up a set of USN WW2 ship colors. Ed Grune recommended them. The paint project will involve a lot of masking, so I’m going with light coats.

Thanks again.

6

I’d be curious to hear how it goes for you. From everything I’ve seen online it looks like ak works much the same as Tamiya . Always good to have another source with more colors available if that be the case.

7

Thanks everyone for the information. Amazon tells me my paint has shipped, so I may get to it this weekend.

I suspect that like Tamiya, AK dries from the outside in, so I give it plenty of time between colors.

8

I thinned, but no retarder. The stuff dries fast. I tried it without using primer and it didn’t attack the plastic. It lays a nice smooth finish.

9

Yes, I am also interested in this stuff so if you post progress comments it would be much appreciated.

10

Hey Greg. I’m using their “real colors” line on my 262. I’ll advise how it goes. I’m actually starting to prefer their extreme metal over alclad. Goes down smooth.

11

That’d be great, Joe.

A question for you or anybody here; Ak calls this stuff acrylic laquer, and mentions it is thinnable with other acrylic thinners and lacquers (Oh boy, here we go, with me being Mr Judgemental on mixing and matching acrylic thinners! [:O]).

Question being, what AK smell like? Is it like Tamiya sort of, or more of a spirit-based smell? I ask because I continue to try to move away from smelly paints.

Edit: Another question, I see GM ordered from Amazon. Curious where others are getting this stuff.

12

Greg, check out this thread I posted not long ago. It may answer many of your questions.

http://cs.finescale.com/fsm/tools_techniques_and_reference_materials/f/23/t/181806.aspx

13

Thanks Steve.

My memory is worse than I thought.

14

I’m considering one of the Vallejo metal sets of paints, that Mercer I’m working on has quite a bit of raw aluminum on the engine, the trans etc. Then some tubes are copper/ brass ( there are a lot of plated brass parts in the kit but not these), the muffler is another metal color. So I don’t want to buy all these metal paints individually @ $11 a bottle. The sets interest me and Vallejo generally is on prime at amazon. I don’r really want to use Alclad, so this purchase basically continues my change away from true solvent paints to more acrylic paint that I have been undergoing for the last 18 months or so.

I don’t really see any great deal at Amazon on the AK sets of metal paints but if so they too would be an option.

15

Thank you for reposting Steve…it answered my questions.

16

I’ve had good luck with AK, I used Vallejo thinner. I’ve also started using Vallejo Air. Ready right out of the bottle. I also use Hataka. Just be careful if you purchase them because they sell sets geared towards airbrushing and hand brushing.

Neuman

17

I’m lazy and a bit OCD about wasting paint so I try to stick with Vallejo model air or Hataka’s air brush sets. Ready to go out of the bottle. While I’m pretty new at using acrylics for airbrushing (I still use enemals too) I’ve been happy with the results and acrylics are far more forgiving.

Also Hataka makes sets with the same colors (IJN, USN-USMC Early, etc.) for both paint brush and airbrush. I really liked this option with some models because the colors match up.

Neuman