Great work Pix. Looks like another winner.
Regards, Rick
Thanks therriman & Rick !
With words like that, it looks like I can’t get away with building a Starfix kit out of the box for my next project ! [(-D]
Glad you like it !
Pixilater,
You just make me SICK!!![:D][:D] My cockpits NEVER look that good!! Maybe you can give an on-line class on how to do this?? PLEASE PLEASE PLEASE PRETTY PLEASE???
Say Pix, where would one find a source for that wiring? Thanks, Gary.
Excellent work once again Pix… glad to see you working again. I have yet to build a 262…have the Tmiya one on the pile, but too many others to build first LOL Plus I want to hone my airbrush skills before I tackle the camo!
Thanks garydmason & Jeeves !
Texgunner - here’s the pics I used to wire the wheelwells.
http://aircraftwalkaround.hobbyvista.com/me262/me262.htm
The back of the instrument panel is guesswork. Only a little of it is seen through the windscreen, so it’s not totally inaccurate. The wiring in the wheelwells is as close as I can come to authenticity.
garydmason - I first airbrush the cockpit base color. After two days to cure, I paint the small details using a #000 brush under strong light & magnification. After 2 more days, I glosscoat it with Future. I then apply enamel washes to specific areas. I take the base color & mix it with black until I reach a shade that matches the shadows I see on the model under the light. Different colored areas get different color washes (ex: the seat and belts have different color washes). Once dry, I remove the excess with a #000 brush, dipped in thinner and touched to a paper towel to remove nearly all the thinner. I then use it to remove the wash from anywhere I don’t want it. * CAUTION - Enamel washes & their removal can be dangerous to the underlying paint. Only use it once you’ve experimented to see how “wet” the thinner brush needs to be to remove the wash.* Once cleaned, I spray the cockpit with Testors Dullcoat. After a day or two, I drybrush the cockpit. I mix the base colors with Titanium White oil paint until I reach a shade that matches the highlights I see on the model under the light. Again, different colored areas (ex: seat & belts) get a different color drybrush.
The main reason I do it this way is to keep the contrast DOWN. I try to recreate the shadows & highlights, not create an “effect” to “pop out the detail.” Too much contrast looks VERY unrealistic, to my eyes. Hope this is what you need, and I hope it helps you.
Jeeves - this is my 11th or 12th Me 262, all from the Trimaster/DML/Dragon boxings. And I still have 7 more Trimaster Me 262s in the “build pile.” I’m a happy guy !
Thanks again !