I find Tamiya Dark Yellow and Dark Green too dark. So I want to lighten them.
I’ve read that in order to lighten dark colors it’s better to use “Flesh” or “Tan” than white or grey. Is this true?
Basically true. To lighten the green I’d suggest using yellow. It will make the color warmer without it looking too pale. To lighten up your Dark Yellow I’d use buff or tan. It can be interesting the effects you get when mixing certain colors. For example, Adding red to a Grey/green color will completely eliminate the green, leaving it looking only dark gray.
I can think of three reasons modelers would lighten a colour:
1.) scale effect - most hobby paints that are issued as colour matches to vehicles, aircraft etc. are based on actual paint chips of the real deal. Since models are scaled down versions, some people will add white or grey to tone down colours to mimic reality since objects at a distance do appear lighter and greyer.
2.) colour correction - simply put, the colour straight from the bottle does not look right. Reason being could be any variable, new research suggests otherwise, bad batch of paint, or how you are feeling that day (< yea, me being funny).
3.) faded finish - not too often is the base coat adjusted for this, since weathering is the go to stage to reflect this.
So in your case, if you are adding flesh, tan, or some other similar light paint in the warm range, you likely are addressing both 1) and 2) at the same time.
regards,
Jack
I have read the recommendations in painting how-to books about adding complementary colors. It certainly does work to reduce saturation, but personally for lightening I prefer the appearance I get by adding white or cream.
As far as scale effect, I do think it is valid on ships, say 1:350 or smaller, and maybe very small aircraft, such as 1:200 scale. However, for anything larger, the scale viewing distance is such that the visibility would have to be very bad- heavy fog- before you would see much. In that case you would also see a blurring of detail, but no one tries to pass off lack of detail as a “scale effect.”
Chalking of paint due to UV exposure IS real, however, especially for WW2 and earlier, or even early Vietnam, as older paints were VERY susceptible to exposure when left in sunlight for any length of time.
Adding the complimentary colour to an existing colour is the opposite of brightening. This is ideal for darkening or creating shadow, but still keeps the main colour vibrant to a certain point. This is a result of all three primary colours (red, yellow and blue) being present, and when these three colours are in the right combination, you will end up with black.
For example, the compliment of yellow is violet. Yellow combined with violet (which is composed of red and blue) results in a black tone as you now have all three primary colours.
I agree, these days scale effect is not too much of concern, and I think that may be due to the fact that most models are viewed in a studio setting, that is the internet. Closeups give you that feeling of actually standing in front of the subject, and even provides a better view of the tiniest details that might be missed if viewed with the naked eye.
regards,
Jack
I love Tamiya acrylics. However, its WWII AFV base coat colors (e.g., dark green, dark yellow) are simply way too dark. That’s why I want to lighten them.
My favourite mix for a Dark Yellow base is 1:1 Tamiya Dark Yellow (XF-60) and Deck Tan (XF-55)