I watched this weeks FSM Weekly and thanks for the bit on using oven cleaner to strip paint. I struggle with whether I should post this as I don’t want to be “that guy”. I love all the segments of FSM Weekly. All three of you do a great job with it. I just wanted to comment on Tooling Around.
I’m in 100% agreement with you that oven cleaner does not do the job of a quick strip. However, I have used it to cleanly strip a model. It was back in 2004-5-ish, when I was going to restart working on the model I am currently working on and about to finish. I painted the model with Testors rattle can spray paint back when I first started the model in 1987. Black on the outside and for some reason, I painted gloss white on the inside. It was a horrible mess and the white had yellowed.
I wanted to start over and a technique I read from FSM was to put the parts in a zip lock bag, spray in the cleaner, seal it up and put it in the fridge for 24-48 hours. I did this, then washed the parts scrubbing with an old toothbrush, the parts came out as clean as new.
Again, thanks for the great job with FSM Weekly, as always.
No worries on being “that guy.” If oven cleaner works for you, great! I don’t want to wait 24-48 hours if I don’t have to. Isopropyl alcohol does the job and it doesn’t take nearly as long to get results. FSM has shared a lot of techniques over its 43 years, and with video, we’re able to show or replicate our experiences with them. What you just did is exactly what I always hope for: thoughtful engagement. And as always, your mileage may vary (YMMV), and that’s completely cool. Thanks for watching the video!
@fxsti03-42 experience is similar to mine. I used oven cleaner to strip paint, but it is not a fast process (as shown in the FSM video). It would take time. Also, if I’m not mistaken, “Easy Off” oven cleaner changed their formula about 2012-ish, so it wasn’t as effective.
I’ve used the Purple Power degreaser ftom Walmart with some pretty good success. I use one of those larger disposable Glad leftover keeper tubs as my bath for the parts.
There is a great non-toxic product called ‘Biostrip 20’- I use it all the time. Messing up a figure model happens fairly often! Being able to strip paint from a part or a head etc is important. This stuff is a bit like wallpaper paste- gloopy and white-ish. Immerse the part in it for a few minutes, agitate with a brush and then rinse under a tap- job done with no odours or residue.
I agree with Tim on the iso alcohol method. I painted my 1/200 Fletcher and didn’t like it. Iso alcohol took it off like a charm with a little elbow grease.
I’m one of those guys that use oven cleaner. Yes sometimes it takes a while, but I’m not usually in that much of a hurry. If used to remove chrome plating, it works like magic, it dissolves as you watch it. These fuel tanks and front rims were decromed in about 30 seconds with decanted EasyOff.
I’ve used it on Testors enamel put on 30 years ago and it’ll still get through it although sometimes a second or third coat is needed. I’ve never had it not remove the paint, but also haven’t tried to remove Tamiya lacquer.
The big difference in my method vs your video, is that I used an old toothbrush with some water to remove the paint, not cotton swabs. I think both methods have their uses.
One last warning on the EasyOff (among others previously pointed out), don’t use an aluminum pie plate to let the parts soak in it, the aluminum will break down and disintegrate.
Another vote for Easy-Off - I’ve been using it for 40 or so years, and rarely had it take more than a half hour to work, usually 15 minutes is more like it. I put the model or parts in a Tupperware tray and spray, making sure all surfaces are covered, then let sit for 10-15 minutes before - like @Frozin - using an old toothbrush and running water to scrub the stubborn bits away. Occasionally re-spray and repeat, but usually not necessary. Last step is to wash everything with dish soap to make sure the last traces of the alkaline are gone.
Works like a charm!
I can neither confirm nor deny that the finish on the surface of a wooden kitchen table was drastically altered when “someone” unintentionally left said pie plate upon it overnight.
On the plus side, the model came out completely paint free.
I used an aluminum pie plate in a plastic bag and sprayed the model. Next morning the model was completely paint free and the pie plate? Nowhere to be found!
I’ve used “Purple Power” cleaner that I got from Walmart. I’ve used the oven cleaner in the past but because it’s so toxic/caustic that only I use it a last resort.
I used to use oven cleaner, but I use SuperClean now. It’s an automotive de-greaser, originally made by Castrol. It is less caustic than oven cleaner, though the active ingredient in both is lye.
It’s advantage over oven cleaner is that a batch can be used more than once, whereas oven cleaner is pretty much once and done. I use glass jars of different sizes, filled with SuperClean, as baths to soak pieces to strip the paint. Or glass baking dishes, for larger items. SC softens and dissolves paint within minutes, and the longer the soak, the more the paint dissolves into the solution. After a soak of 5 to 10 minutes or so, I’ll remove the piece from the bath and use an old toothbrush to scrub the remaining paint away gently. I’ll hold it under running water while doing this. And at around nine bucks a gallon, it’s a bargain.
