Hi Tony, is there any ‘easy’ way to determine whether an acrylic paint is alcohol or water based? I guess that is a mistake i make - i see the word acrylic and just assume it is water based.
Also, thanks for your tips regarding the use of lacquer thinners and retarders in respect of temperature and conditions. Do you need to factor in humidity at all?
Where i live, if it’s hot, then it’s also humid. If it’s cold, it’s pretty dry. How do those factors weigh in on the use of a retarder?
Just out of curiosity, what type of airbrush do you use - single action or double action? I recall reading somewhere this can also affect the dry tip issues. Hopefully somebody can elaborate more???
I’m using a double action Iwata HP-CS. I may run down some retarder when I get a change because the dry tip was a little annoying. I am running real low on the Tamiya have about 1/2 of the big bottle I am trying to hang on to for spraying metallic colors. Oh how I hate metallics.
If you look over in the Spitfire group build you can see my results with Tamiya and alcohol.
Try Future as the thinner. It will make the paint (acrylics) flow very smooth. I usually add a few drops of flow improver to help it spray really smooth. After you add your decals and washes then it can be sprayed clear flat to kill the sheen.